"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:su6oqn$ee3$[email protected]...
The other day I needed to blow some steel screws out of some aluminum
boat ribs because they were rusted off and seized in place. I tried a couple different toothed cutters before trying the plasma cutter.
----------------------
I take it you left big smokin' holes rather than salvagable threads in
the aluminum.
On old cars and small engines I usually have to replace the rusted screw
with a new one.
Could be worse, I met a man who was rebuilding a Rolls-Royce Nene jet
engine with a large, closely spaced circle of small corroded screws in aluminum.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:su6oqn$ee3$[email protected]...
The other day I needed to blow some steel screws out of some aluminum
boat ribs because they were rusted off and seized in place. I tried a
couple different toothed cutters before trying the plasma cutter.
----------------------
I take it you left big smokin' holes rather than salvagable threads in the aluminum.
On old cars and small engines I usually have to replace the rusted screw
with a new one.
Could be worse, I met a man who was rebuilding a Rolls-Royce Nene jet
engine with a large, closely spaced circle of small corroded screws in aluminum.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:su6v70$llq$[email protected]...
On 2/11/2022 4:54 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:su6oqn$ee3$[email protected]...
The other day I needed to blow some steel screws out of some aluminum
boat ribs because they were rusted off and seized in place. I tried a
couple different toothed cutters before trying the plasma cutter.
----------------------
I take it you left big smokin' holes rather than salvagable threads in
the aluminum.
On old cars and small engines I usually have to replace the rusted
screw with a new one.
Could be worse, I met a man who was rebuilding a Rolls-Royce Nene jet
engine with a large, closely spaced circle of small corroded screws in
aluminum.
Yep. I'll flap wheel it flat, and use rivets to reattach the sole when
I am ready. In the short term during fitup of everything I'll use
stainless steel screws. The screws will get pulled and replaced with
rivets when everything is right.
-----------------------
In case you or others don't know, #5 screws have a diameter of 1/8" and
are good temporary assembly substitutes for 1/8" rivets if you don't
have or the space is too tight for Clecos. #10 screws work for 3/16"
rivets.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:su8q43$4j1$[email protected]...
I'm leaning towards DAP tub and tile clear. For machine enclosures and
in the past for outdoor surface mounted junction and equipment boxes it
has done a better job over time than all but the most expensive marine sealants and is much easier to work with.
------------------------
Thanks for the advice. I've generally had poor luck with sealants used outdoors in sunlight, except for a Silicone (brand??) in the joint
between aluminum siding and aluminum window trim covering which has
remained intact for ~15 years.
I used those washer/truss head screws to fasten down corrugated panels
on a roof extension because the flanged hex heads meant for them snag
the snow rake. Sealing washers punched from red rubber sheet from HD deteriorated at the edges from sunlight. Inner tube rubber is worse.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:su8q43$4j1$[email protected]...
I'm leaning towards DAP tub and tile clear. ...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sub9b9$g2a$[email protected]...
On 2/12/2022 5:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:su8q43$4j1$[email protected]...
I'm leaning towards DAP tub and tile clear. ...
------------------------------
Not sure what you might use it for, but it comes out of the tube
"thinner" than most other sealants I have used. Makes sense since it
comes in a squeeze tube.
----------------------------
Outdoor lights and cameras, TV antenna and solar panel wiring, sealing
car rust repairs, ...
When I setup my shop I never figured it would be so full. It was just supposed to be a warehouse for my contracting business. I never planned
on it being a machine shop or that I would actually learn to weld more
than some thin to medium gage mild steel.
The other day I needed to blow some steel screws out of some aluminum
boat ribs because they were rusted off and seized in place. I tried a couple different toothed cutters before trying the plasma cutter. Sadly
I only ever put in one 50 amp outlet in the shop near the back door. I recognized this as a problem some time back and bought a 50ft 50 amp
cord. That allowed me to weld in about 75% of the shop. More than
enough I thought. Then this boat came in. No way to pull it inside. A buddy of mine loaned me his 50 ft welding extension cord. Between the
two of them I could reach everywhere I needed to reach, and blew out all those screws in short order. Its not pretty, but it worked and it was
fast.
I doubt I'll need to do that very often, but I ordered another 50ft
welding extension cord just in case. I'm sure I won't be able to use
the full power of my MIG welder on 100 ft of 8/3, but I was wondering
how far I could push it. The Paige online size wire calculator says I should be able to draw 40 amps from the wall. I'm not sure what that
means in practical real world welding, but its got to be better than
dragging the 120V flux core out front to tack something up so I can
safely drag it in the back to weld it out.
Maybe someday I'll spring for 100ft of 6/3 for a welder extension cord
and be able to pull the full 50 amps from the wall outlet, but this will
have to do for now.
P.S. A spot weld cutter actually worked, but it took way to long. If I just had a couple I'd have probably done it that way, but I had to
remove 44 screws from boat ribs.
On 2/11/2022 3:43 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
When I setup my shop I never figured it would be so full. It was just
supposed to be a warehouse for my contracting business. I never
planned on it being a machine shop or that I would actually learn to
weld more than some thin to medium gage mild steel.
The other day I needed to blow some steel screws out of some aluminum
boat ribs because they were rusted off and seized in place. I tried a
couple different toothed cutters before trying the plasma cutter.
Sadly I only ever put in one 50 amp outlet in the shop near the back
door. I recognized this as a problem some time back and bought a 50ft
50 amp cord. That allowed me to weld in about 75% of the shop. More
than enough I thought. Then this boat came in. No way to pull it
inside. A buddy of mine loaned me his 50 ft welding extension cord.
Between the two of them I could reach everywhere I needed to reach,
and blew out all those screws in short order. Its not pretty, but it
worked and it was fast.
I doubt I'll need to do that very often, but I ordered another 50ft
welding extension cord just in case. I'm sure I won't be able to use
the full power of my MIG welder on 100 ft of 8/3, but I was wondering
how far I could push it. The Paige online size wire calculator says I
should be able to draw 40 amps from the wall. I'm not sure what that
means in practical real world welding, but its got to be better than
dragging the 120V flux core out front to tack something up so I can
safely drag it in the back to weld it out.
Maybe someday I'll spring for 100ft of 6/3 for a welder extension cord
and be able to pull the full 50 amps from the wall outlet, but this
will have to do for now.
P.S. A spot weld cutter actually worked, but it took way to long. If
I just had a couple I'd have probably done it that way, but I had to
remove 44 screws from boat ribs.
Well, I now have 100 feet of 8/3 welder extension cord. I can now reach well out past the 20' concrete apron on the front of my shop. I may no longer have a need for the little 120V ProCore MIG. Gonna keep it anyway. I would have liked 6/3, but its was out of my budget.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sum6mp$etf$[email protected]...
Of course now I need to cleanup the shop so I can actually roll the
welding carts out front. LOL.
---------------
Bulldozer blade on the front?
One of the specs GM required for custom factory equipment was that it be forklift-proofed, meaning that internal wiring was in grounded metal
conduit so the operator wouldn't get a shock if they drove the forks
into it. Rather than bend EMT to fit tight spots we used a lot of
Sealtite, which also met the hose down spec. I've seen less well
waterproofed wiring on a submarine.
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