We've been shopping for new counter tops, exclusively looking at the standard "stone" options - quartz, quartzite, marble, soapstone, etc.
Having not yet come across "the one", we've started doing some
research into wooden countertops. While not excluding butcher block,
I think we know enough about butcher block that we don't need to do
much research on that specific product. It's all the other options that
we are curious about.
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded countertops?
Pro & cons - beyond the need to refinish occasionally? Best types of
wood, installation concerns, etc. FWIW I have stick-build cabinets, built
in the 50's. Adding blocking or corner bracing, etc. to support any type of counter top would be quite simple.
Ping Leon - Some of the wooden counter websites mention the Rubio
Monocoat products since it's food safe and easy to refinish. As you and
I know, it's a breeze to work with.
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:36:59 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:off the stove. And you had to use a cutting board when using a knife on the countertop. But those are just common sense things you should do anyway. And plastic laminate countertops worked fine for 30-40 years. Then fancy solid surface appeared and it
We've been shopping for new counter tops, exclusively looking at the standard "stone" options - quartz, quartzite, marble, soapstone, etc.
Having not yet come across "the one", we've started doing some
research into wooden countertops. While not excluding butcher block,
I think we know enough about butcher block that we don't need to do
much research on that specific product. It's all the other options that
we are curious about.
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded countertops?
Pro & cons - beyond the need to refinish occasionally? Best types of
wood, installation concerns, etc. FWIW I have stick-build cabinets, built in the 50's. Adding blocking or corner bracing, etc. to support any type of
counter top would be quite simple.
Ping Leon - Some of the wooden counter websites mention the RubioNo experience with wood countertops. So I should not even be responding. But I am. Plastic laminate was used as the standard countertop from the 1950s up through the 1980s. And it worked just fine. Yes you had to use a hot pad underneath pots you took
Monocoat products since it's food safe and easy to refinish. As you and
I know, it's a breeze to work with.
But, plastic laminate does have one big advantage over wood. It is waterproof. Water does not harm plastic laminate at all. With wood, even with a finish, coating on it, is susceptible to water damage. Although maybe teak is sort of impervious to water.So you would have to be careful with water on a wood countertop. Wipe up spills immediately. Not let any water stand on the wood countertop.
A BIG BIG BIG negative with a wood countertop, and a plastic laminate countertop, is the inability to do an undermounted sink. That would throw wood right out the door for me. I had an undermounted sink in my prior house. I would never ever go back toa top mounted stainless steel sink like you have with plastic laminate countertops. So easy to wipe water into the sink with an undermounted sink. For me, and maybe just me, but if a kitchen does not have an undermount sink, and is still using the old
On 3/13/2023 0:30, Bob Davis wrote:Big fan of soapstone, but as it is quite soft, prepare for scratches, nicks and minor damage. Impervious to stains and heat, and pairs well with an undermount soapstone farmhouse sink...
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 8:16:34 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:I've never lived with them, but typically wooden counter tops are made
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:36:59 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded
countertops? Pro& cons - beyond the need to refinish
occasionally? Best types of wood, installation concerns, etc.
of maple. I've heard that teak is more durable, and less likely to
warp. Like any good cutting board, you'd want to rub wooden counters
with teak oil from time to time to seal them; which also acts a disinfectant. Me personally, I'd like one larger "butcher block"
counter spot for working, maybe 3 foot wide (perhaps on a kitchen
island)... I'd go with laminate or the like for the rest of the surfaces.
Personal preference; I don't care for the look of a modern under-mountA BIG BIG BIG negative with a wood countertop, and a plastic
laminate countertop, is the inability to do an undermounted sink.
sink. I grew up with a 50's porcelain cast double-basin under-mount,
with the stainless hudee ring around it. That was kind of nifty
looking; I wouldn't mind that. I currently have a drop-in cast enamel
sink and laminate counter tops.
I think wood and plastic are fragile for kitchen counter tops.The worst choice of counter top would be tile, IMHO. Gross and
unsanitary, easy to stain the grout, and fairly fragile. Granite is too expensive, but that faux granite (quartz?) is less costly and more
durable than granite.
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 8:16:34 PM UTC-5, [email protected]
wrote:
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:36:59 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded
countertops? Pro& cons - beyond the need to refinish
occasionally? Best types of wood, installation concerns, etc.
A BIG BIG BIG negative with a wood countertop, and a plastic
laminate countertop, is the inability to do an undermounted sink.
I think wood and plastic are fragile for kitchen counter tops.
No experience with wood countertops. So I should not even be responding....
But, plastic laminate does have one big advantage over wood. It is waterproof.
A BIG BIG BIG negative with a wood countertop, and a plastic laminate countertop, is the inability to do an undermounted sink.
That would throw wood right out the door for me. I had an undermounted
sink in my prior house. I would never ever go back to a top mounted stainless steel sink like you have with plastic laminate countertops. So easy to wipe water into the sink with an undermounted sink.
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 8:16:34 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:took off the stove. And you had to use a cutting board when using a knife on the countertop. But those are just common sense things you should do anyway. And plastic laminate countertops worked fine for 30-40 years. Then fancy solid surface appeared and
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:36:59 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
We've been shopping for new counter tops, exclusively looking at the standard "stone" options - quartz, quartzite, marble, soapstone, etc.
Having not yet come across "the one", we've started doing some
research into wooden countertops. While not excluding butcher block,
I think we know enough about butcher block that we don't need to do
much research on that specific product. It's all the other options that we are curious about.
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded countertops?
Pro & cons - beyond the need to refinish occasionally? Best types of wood, installation concerns, etc. FWIW I have stick-build cabinets, built
in the 50's. Adding blocking or corner bracing, etc. to support any type of
counter top would be quite simple.
Ping Leon - Some of the wooden counter websites mention the Rubio Monocoat products since it's food safe and easy to refinish. As you and I know, it's a breeze to work with.No experience with wood countertops. So I should not even be responding. But I am. Plastic laminate was used as the standard countertop from the 1950s up through the 1980s. And it worked just fine. Yes you had to use a hot pad underneath pots you
water. So you would have to be careful with water on a wood countertop. Wipe up spills immediately. Not let any water stand on the wood countertop.But, plastic laminate does have one big advantage over wood. It is waterproof. Water does not harm plastic laminate at all. With wood, even with a finish, coating on it, is susceptible to water damage. Although maybe teak is sort of impervious to
to a top mounted stainless steel sink like you have with plastic laminate countertops. So easy to wipe water into the sink with an undermounted sink. For me, and maybe just me, but if a kitchen does not have an undermount sink, and is still using the oldA BIG BIG BIG negative with a wood countertop, and a plastic laminate countertop, is the inability to do an undermounted sink. That would throw wood right out the door for me. I had an undermounted sink in my prior house. I would never ever go back
I think wood and plastic are fragile for kitchen counter tops. We have old Dupont Corian countertops. Some would view them as boring compared to granite or quartz. But they are tough and look as good as they did 25 years ago. We can set a hot skilleton them without concern. I think a counter top should not need to be treated like a baby. Wood seems to require caution and care. Granite needs to be sealed and resealed and can be damaged by a dropped pot. I guess we are kind of rough on a kitchen.
On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 12:30:19 AM UTC-4, Bob Davis wrote:took off the stove. And you had to use a cutting board when using a knife on the countertop. But those are just common sense things you should do anyway. And plastic laminate countertops worked fine for 30-40 years. Then fancy solid surface appeared and
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 8:16:34 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:36:59 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
We've been shopping for new counter tops, exclusively looking at the standard "stone" options - quartz, quartzite, marble, soapstone, etc.
Having not yet come across "the one", we've started doing some research into wooden countertops. While not excluding butcher block,
I think we know enough about butcher block that we don't need to do much research on that specific product. It's all the other options that
we are curious about.
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded countertops? Pro & cons - beyond the need to refinish occasionally? Best types of wood, installation concerns, etc. FWIW I have stick-build cabinets, built
in the 50's. Adding blocking or corner bracing, etc. to support any type of
counter top would be quite simple.
Ping Leon - Some of the wooden counter websites mention the Rubio Monocoat products since it's food safe and easy to refinish. As you andNo experience with wood countertops. So I should not even be responding. But I am. Plastic laminate was used as the standard countertop from the 1950s up through the 1980s. And it worked just fine. Yes you had to use a hot pad underneath pots you
I know, it's a breeze to work with.
water. So you would have to be careful with water on a wood countertop. Wipe up spills immediately. Not let any water stand on the wood countertop.But, plastic laminate does have one big advantage over wood. It is waterproof. Water does not harm plastic laminate at all. With wood, even with a finish, coating on it, is susceptible to water damage. Although maybe teak is sort of impervious to
to a top mounted stainless steel sink like you have with plastic laminate countertops. So easy to wipe water into the sink with an undermounted sink. For me, and maybe just me, but if a kitchen does not have an undermount sink, and is still using the oldA BIG BIG BIG negative with a wood countertop, and a plastic laminate countertop, is the inability to do an undermounted sink. That would throw wood right out the door for me. I had an undermounted sink in my prior house. I would never ever go back
on them without concern. I think a counter top should not need to be treated like a baby. Wood seems to require caution and care. Granite needs to be sealed and resealed and can be damaged by a dropped pot. I guess we are kind of rough on a kitchen.I think wood and plastic are fragile for kitchen counter tops. We have old Dupont Corian countertops. Some would view them as boring compared to granite or quartz. But they are tough and look as good as they did 25 years ago. We can set a hot skillet
I mean this in the nicest way when I agree with you when you say: "No experience
with wood countertops. So I should not even be responding." ;-)
I only say that because you followed that with this:
"A BIG BIG BIG negative with a wood countertop ... is the inability to do an undermounted
sink."
I only say that because of this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=wooden+counter+with+undermount+sinks&tbm=isch
The current UK fashion is a porcelain sink in a wooden countertop, with 'draining board' grooves routed into it:
https://www.istockphoto.com/photo/image-of-farmhouse-kitchen-belfast-butler-sink-real-wood-countertop-gm469629152-62363106
I think this is a bad idea because it's inviting water onto the surface, and draining dishes is a constant source of fresh water to sit around (it never drains perfectly, and limescale etc builds up)
On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 4:14:33 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
https://www.google.com/search?q=wooden+counter+with+undermount+sinks&tbm=isch
I saw you can do an undermount sink with a post above. So I will
admit my error on that. But with the end grain showing on the edges,
it seems ripe for quick water damage. A year ago I roofed a house.
Used an air compressor and coil nailer. Can't imagine there are any
fools walking around today who would choose to use a manual hammer
and nails for roofing an asphalt shingle roof. Just because it can
be done, does not mean you should do it.
On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 4:14:33 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:took off the stove. And you had to use a cutting board when using a knife on the countertop. But those are just common sense things you should do anyway. And plastic laminate countertops worked fine for 30-40 years. Then fancy solid surface appeared and
On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 12:30:19 AM UTC-4, Bob Davis wrote:
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 8:16:34 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:36:59 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
We've been shopping for new counter tops, exclusively looking at the standard "stone" options - quartz, quartzite, marble, soapstone, etc.
Having not yet come across "the one", we've started doing some research into wooden countertops. While not excluding butcher block, I think we know enough about butcher block that we don't need to do much research on that specific product. It's all the other options that
we are curious about.
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded countertops? Pro & cons - beyond the need to refinish occasionally? Best types of wood, installation concerns, etc. FWIW I have stick-build cabinets, built
in the 50's. Adding blocking or corner bracing, etc. to support any type of
counter top would be quite simple.
Ping Leon - Some of the wooden counter websites mention the Rubio Monocoat products since it's food safe and easy to refinish. As you andNo experience with wood countertops. So I should not even be responding. But I am. Plastic laminate was used as the standard countertop from the 1950s up through the 1980s. And it worked just fine. Yes you had to use a hot pad underneath pots you
I know, it's a breeze to work with.
water. So you would have to be careful with water on a wood countertop. Wipe up spills immediately. Not let any water stand on the wood countertop.But, plastic laminate does have one big advantage over wood. It is waterproof. Water does not harm plastic laminate at all. With wood, even with a finish, coating on it, is susceptible to water damage. Although maybe teak is sort of impervious to
back to a top mounted stainless steel sink like you have with plastic laminate countertops. So easy to wipe water into the sink with an undermounted sink. For me, and maybe just me, but if a kitchen does not have an undermount sink, and is still usingA BIG BIG BIG negative with a wood countertop, and a plastic laminate countertop, is the inability to do an undermounted sink. That would throw wood right out the door for me. I had an undermounted sink in my prior house. I would never ever go
skillet on them without concern. I think a counter top should not need to be treated like a baby. Wood seems to require caution and care. Granite needs to be sealed and resealed and can be damaged by a dropped pot. I guess we are kind of rough on aI think wood and plastic are fragile for kitchen counter tops. We have old Dupont Corian countertops. Some would view them as boring compared to granite or quartz. But they are tough and look as good as they did 25 years ago. We can set a hot
imagine there are any fools walking around today who would choose to use a manual hammer and nails for roofing an asphalt shingle roof. Just because it can be done, does not mean you should do it.I mean this in the nicest way when I agree with you when you say: "No experience
with wood countertops. So I should not even be responding." ;-)
I only say that because you followed that with this:
"A BIG BIG BIG negative with a wood countertop ... is the inability to do an undermounted
sink."
I only say that because of this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=wooden+counter+with+undermount+sinks&tbm=ischI saw you can do an undermount sink with a post above. So I will admit my error on that. But with the end grain showing on the edges, it seems ripe for quick water damage. A year ago I roofed a house. Used an air compressor and coil nailer. Can't
On 3/13/2023 13:02, Theo wrote:
The current UK fashion is a porcelain sink in a wooden countertop, with
'draining board' grooves routed into it:
https://www.istockphoto.com/photo/image-of-farmhouse-kitchen-belfast-butler-sink-real-wood-countertop-gm469629152-62363106
I think this is a bad idea because it's inviting water onto the surface, and >> draining dishes is a constant source of fresh water to sit around (it never >> drains perfectly, and limescale etc builds up)
I agree, although I like the old-school concept. I have a double sink >porcelain basin with a built-in drainboard on either side which is 60"
long. It's not in my kitchen, but it's sitting in my garage, with a
rusty "Youngstown Kitchens" metal cabinet below it. I've been meaning
to sand it down and restore it. I might even install it into my kitchen.
On 3/13/2023 19:50, [email protected] wrote:
On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 4:14:33 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
https://www.google.com/search?q=wooden+counter+with+undermount+sinks&tbm=isch
I saw you can do an undermount sink with a post above. So I will
admit my error on that. But with the end grain showing on the edges,
it seems ripe for quick water damage. A year ago I roofed a house.
Used an air compressor and coil nailer. Can't imagine there are any
fools walking around today who would choose to use a manual hammer
and nails for roofing an asphalt shingle roof. Just because it can
be done, does not mean you should do it.
Since I don't have a good portable air compressor, I would do a small
roof with nail and hammer. As a matter of fact, I'll be doing my front
porch roof by hand this summer. Anything larger than a porch, and I'll
pass on that.
On 3/13/2023 19:50, [email protected] wrote:
On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 4:14:33 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
https://www.google.com/search?q=wooden+counter+with+undermount+sinks&tbm=isch
I saw you can do an undermount sink with a post above. So I will
admit my error on that. But with the end grain showing on the edges,
it seems ripe for quick water damage. A year ago I roofed a house.
Used an air compressor and coil nailer. Can't imagine there are any
fools walking around today who would choose to use a manual hammer
and nails for roofing an asphalt shingle roof. Just because it can
be done, does not mean you should do it.
Since I don't have a good portable air compressor, I would do a small
roof with nail and hammer. As a matter of fact, I'll be doing my front porch roof by hand this summer. Anything larger than a porch, and I'll
pass on that.
I used to hear an advertisement for a roofing company on the radio, who claimed that they hand nail each and every shingle for "unmatched
durability" or something like that; almost as if the roof was
hand-carved. I'm not sure if that actually makes it more durable, but I imagine that they charge more for that job than someone with an air compressor and a nail gun.
Personal preference; I don't care for the look of a modern under-mount sink. I grew up with a 50's porcelain cast double-basin under-mount,
with the stainless hudee ring around it. That was kind of nifty
looking; I wouldn't mind that. I currently have a drop-in cast enamel
sink and laminate counter tops.
I think wood and plastic are fragile for kitchen counter tops.
The worst choice of counter top would be tile, IMHO. Gross and
unsanitary, easy to stain the grout, and fairly fragile. Granite is too expensive, but that faux granite (quartz?) is less costly and more
durable than granite.
Michael Trew <[email protected]> writes:
On 3/13/2023 13:02, Theo wrote:
The current UK fashion is a porcelain sink in a wooden countertop, with >> 'draining board' grooves routed into it:
https://www.istockphoto.com/photo/image-of-farmhouse-kitchen-belfast-butler-sink-real-wood-countertop-gm469629152-62363106
I think this is a bad idea because it's inviting water onto the surface, and
draining dishes is a constant source of fresh water to sit around (it never
drains perfectly, and limescale etc builds up)
I agree, although I like the old-school concept. I have a double sink >porcelain basin with a built-in drainboard on either side which is 60" >long. It's not in my kitchen, but it's sitting in my garage, with a(maple) for the kitchen island surface, which had a built-in sink (not undermounted). Neither he nor I would make the same choice
rusty "Youngstown Kitchens" metal cabinet below it. I've been meaning
to sand it down and restore it. I might even install it into my kitchen. When my father built his cabin on the river (combining three 150 year old log cabins), he used some reclaimed bowling alley lane material
today (25 years later).
We've been shopping for new counter tops, exclusively looking at the
standard "stone" options - quartz, quartzite, marble, soapstone, etc.
Having not yet come across "the one", we've started doing some
research into wooden countertops. While not excluding butcher block,
I think we know enough about butcher block that we don't need to do
much research on that specific product. It's all the other options that
we are curious about.
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded countertops?
Pro & cons - beyond the need to refinish occasionally? Best types of
wood, installation concerns, etc. FWIW I have stick-build cabinets, built
in the 50's. Adding blocking or corner bracing, etc. to support any type of counter top would be quite simple.
Ping Leon - Some of the wooden counter websites mention the Rubio
Monocoat products since it's food safe and easy to refinish. As you and
I know, it's a breeze to work with.
On 3/12/2023 11:36 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
We've been shopping for new counter tops, exclusively looking at the standard "stone" options - quartz, quartzite, marble, soapstone, etc.
Having not yet come across "the one", we've started doing some
research into wooden countertops. While not excluding butcher block,
I think we know enough about butcher block that we don't need to do
much research on that specific product. It's all the other options that
we are curious about.
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded countertops?
Pro & cons - beyond the need to refinish occasionally? Best types of
wood, installation concerns, etc. FWIW I have stick-build cabinets, built in the 50's. Adding blocking or corner bracing, etc. to support any type of
counter top would be quite simple.
Ping Leon - Some of the wooden counter websites mention the RubioSo here is my experience with wood in the kitchen. I made a sliding
Monocoat products since it's food safe and easy to refinish. As you and
I know, it's a breeze to work with.
cutting board to fit over our sink. Hot pans get set on the cutting
board and it leaves scorch marks.
As you know, wood will be a maintenance item. Knife cut marks will
show. Dents will show.
We are right in the same situation as you. We are choosing Quartz.
With wood I would do the cutting board style, multiple face to face
pieced glued together to guard against warping over time. Not flat
boards like on a piece of furniture. ASLO prefinish the back edge and
bottom before installation. You need to do a good job sealing around
the sink area so that you don't have spots that water can hide and cause mold. I would not want an under mount sink at all with wood. Your
cabinets are probably fine with out additional reinforcing for a wood counter top but if it is easy to do it can't hurt.
That said, I would consider at least hard maple and possibly Ipe.
Walnut, Cherry, soft Maple will get dings with little effort.
With man made stone products, Quartz, you have little to no maintenance
and it is repairable should you chip or break it. Typically Quartz
comes in 2cm and 3cm thicknesses. Obviously the 2cm is less expensive
if YOU are the fabricator and installer. You being the installer would
be if you used 2cm and build up the edge to make the slab appear
thicker, 4cm. If you are having quartz installed 3cm is stronger and
less labor to install as it does not have to be built up. Also
additional blocking/reinforcement under the slab is not needed. So in
our case 4 separate tops the 3cm is going to be less than the 2cm, less
work and cabinet prep.
With the understanding that the wood counter top will require regular maintenance, I would also use Rubio. It will be the easiest to refinish should you need to sand out marks, dents, or burns. Keep in mind that
Rubio, once opened, has about a 2 year life span, so don't buy more than
you need for the first time around and maybe buy smaller bottles/cans
for future repairs. This stuff comes in 2 oz sample bottles and that
could probably be enough to do a repair. This stuff goes a looooong way.
FWIW I'm considering using Rubio for out cabinet doors and drawer
fronts, walnut rails and stiles with white oak pin stripes. White Oak
book matched plywood center panels.
One other thing, if you "ever" think you want to replace the sink, now
might be the time to do it especially if going with under mount.
On Tuesday, March 14, 2023 at 11:05:34=E2=80=AFAM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrot= >e:
Michael Trew <[email protected]> writes:=20
On 3/13/2023 13:02, Theo wrote:=20When my father built his cabin on the river (combining three 150 year old= >=20
The current UK fashion is a porcelain sink in a wooden countertop, wit= >h=20=20
'draining board' grooves routed into it:=20
=20
https://www.istockphoto.com/photo/image-of-farmhouse-kitchen-belfast-b= >utler-sink-real-wood-countertop-gm469629152-62363106=20
=20
I think this is a bad idea because it's inviting water onto the surfac= >e, and=20
draining dishes is a constant source of fresh water to sit around (it = >never=20
drains perfectly, and limescale etc builds up)=20
I agree, although I like the old-school concept. I have a double sink=20
porcelain basin with a built-in drainboard on either side which is 60"= >=20
long. It's not in my kitchen, but it's sitting in my garage, with a=20
rusty "Youngstown Kitchens" metal cabinet below it. I've been meaning=20
to sand it down and restore it. I might even install it into my kitchen.
log cabins), he used some reclaimed bowling alley lane material=20
(maple) for the kitchen island surface, which had a built-in sink (not=20
undermounted). Neither he nor I would make the same choice=20
today (25 years later).
A reason (or reasons) why would be helpful to this discussion.
Oh, the sink is definitely going. It's a very old drop-in porcelain coated sink with the metal band around it. As far as I know, it's original to the 65+ YO house. No way I'm dropping $K's on a counter top and not
replacing the sink.
So here is my experience with wood in the kitchen. I made a sliding
cutting board to fit over our sink. Hot pans get set on the cutting
board and it leaves scorch marks.
As you know, wood will be a maintenance item. Knife cut marks will
show. Dents will show.
One other thing, if you "ever" think you want to replace the sink, now
might be the time to do it especially if going with under mount.
Oh, the sink is definitely going. It's a very old drop-in porcelain coated sink with the metal band around it. As far as I know, it's original to the 65+ YO house. No way I'm dropping $K's on a counter top and not
replacing the sink.
We have had them all, drop in self rimming, undermount with the SS rim sitting on top of the counter and currently the undermount with no rim.
A smooth surface to wipe debris straight into the sink is preferable for
us.
Sooo down in Houston Quartz is more expensive than granite.
On 3/14/2023 15:09, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Oh, the sink is definitely going. It's a very old drop-in porcelain coated sink with the metal band around it. As far as I know, it's original to the 65+ YO house. No way I'm dropping $K's on a counter top and notIf it's one of these, that's called a hudee ring (metal), and you
replacing the sink.
actually have an under-mount sink. My father didn't believe me when he
was removing his, from the late 1950s... until he had most of the
brackets underneath removed, and the sink nearly fell on his head. He thought the little brackets held the ring in place... uh, no, those be
the under-mount sink brackets.
Pic: https://postimg.cc/PPrs00Rc
On 3/14/2023 14:56, Leon wrote:
We have had them all, drop in self rimming, undermount with the SS rim sitting on top of the counter and currently the undermount with no rim.To each their own. I get the practicality, but I think the sinks set
A smooth surface to wipe debris straight into the sink is preferable for us.
down with the counter over the top rim are unsightly, IMHO.
I love those old 40's - 50's era enamel sinks with the drainboard built
in, but you'd have to have a nicely restored mid-century kitchen, or
else it will stand out like a sore thumb. Keep in mind, I don't have a dishwasher.
Sooo down in Houston Quartz is more expensive than granite.That's pretty wild. "Faux granite" is far cheaper in Ohio... or was the
last time I checked. Perhaps people caught on that it is more durable
and stain resistant.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
So here is my experience with wood in the kitchen. I made a sliding
cutting board to fit over our sink. Hot pans get set on the cutting
board and it leaves scorch marks.
As you know, wood will be a maintenance item. Knife cut marks will
show. Dents will show.
Do people actually cut things directly on their countertops? I've always
had laminated chipboard, and that's not robust to knives or heat. You use chopping boards and heat resistant pan stands.
Laminate isn't robust against denting either (although perhaps the chipboard is more so than a softwood), but usually the way they fail is the edging strips peel off.
To me the attraction of wood is those marks can be sanded out, whereas with another type the marks are permanent. Although it's a tradeoff about ease
of refinishing to remove marks against being resistant to marks in the first place.
One other thing, if you "ever" think you want to replace the sink, now
might be the time to do it especially if going with under mount.
That is one thing to think about - later on, if you have to replace the sink without replacing the countertop, whether it'll fit the old cutout or how easy it is to make a new cutout. Obviously it'll be harder to make the cutout smaller further down the road.
(in one place, the sink was enamelled steel and the enamel got chipped and later wore through. Pressed stainless steel sinks also seem to bend out of shape so they don't drain properly. I'd probably consider a composite ceramic sink in future, which seems to last better as long as you don't drop heavy things in it)
Theo
DerbyDad03 was heard to mutter:
We've been shopping for new counter tops, exclusively looking at the
standard "stone" options - quartz, quartzite, marble, soapstone, etc.
Having not yet come across "the one", we've started doing some
research into wooden countertops. While not excluding butcher block,
I think we know enough about butcher block that we don't need to do
much research on that specific product. It's all the other options that
we are curious about.
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded countertops?
Pro & cons - beyond the need to refinish occasionally? Best types of
wood, installation concerns, etc. FWIW I have stick-build cabinets, built
in the 50's. Adding blocking or corner bracing, etc. to support any type of >counter top would be quite simple.
Ping Leon - Some of the wooden counter websites mention the Rubio
Monocoat products since it's food safe and easy to refinish. As you and
I know, it's a breeze to work with.
I can't really add much to what's already been said about wood but if
you love it, just learn to care for it properly.
Have several family and friends who insisted on granite. At least one regrets it now. He inisisted he had to be able to put hot pots and
pans on it with no worries. Told him not a good idea. Fast forward 4
years. Now they're prepping for house resale and replacing half the
counters due to huge cracks caused by hot stuff.
Does heat expansion affect granite?
Results show that with increasing temperature, the uneven thermal
expansion and thermal shock effect of minerals promote crack
development, leading to increases in the porosity and permeability of granite, particularly at temperatures above 450°C.
He refused to talk to me about house stuff ever again. It was either
when I told him his contractor hung the hanging lamps too close to the
end cabinets so they could not open all the way. (He never bothered to
have them fixed.) Or when I said wood handled knives in the dishwasher
was bad. (He went thru 3 knife sets in that 4 years.) Live and learn.
May you be happy with whatever you choose.
DerbyDad03 was heard to mutter:
We've been shopping for new counter tops, exclusively looking at the >standard "stone" options - quartz, quartzite, marble, soapstone, etc.
Having not yet come across "the one", we've started doing some
research into wooden countertops. While not excluding butcher block,
I think we know enough about butcher block that we don't need to do
much research on that specific product. It's all the other options that
we are curious about.
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded countertops?
Pro & cons - beyond the need to refinish occasionally? Best types of
wood, installation concerns, etc. FWIW I have stick-build cabinets, built >in the 50's. Adding blocking or corner bracing, etc. to support any type of >counter top would be quite simple.
Ping Leon - Some of the wooden counter websites mention the Rubio
Monocoat products since it's food safe and easy to refinish. As you and
I know, it's a breeze to work with.
On 3/13/2023 0:30, Bob Davis wrote:
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 8:16:34 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:I've never lived with them, but typically wooden counter tops are made
On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 11:36:59 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded
countertops? Pro& cons - beyond the need to refinish
occasionally? Best types of wood, installation concerns, etc.
of maple. I've heard that teak is more durable, and less likely to
warp. Like any good cutting board, you'd want to rub wooden counters
with teak oil from time to time to seal them; which also acts a disinfectant. Me personally, I'd like one larger "butcher block"
counter spot for working, maybe 3 foot wide (perhaps on a kitchen
island)... I'd go with laminate or the like for the rest of the surfaces.
Personal preference; I don't care for the look of a modern under-mountA BIG BIG BIG negative with a wood countertop, and a plastic
laminate countertop, is the inability to do an undermounted sink.
sink. I grew up with a 50's porcelain cast double-basin under-mount,
with the stainless hudee ring around it. That was kind of nifty
looking; I wouldn't mind that. I currently have a drop-in cast enamel
sink and laminate counter tops.
I think wood and plastic are fragile for kitchen counter tops.The worst choice of counter top would be tile, IMHO. Gross and
unsanitary, easy to stain the grout, and fairly fragile. Granite is too expensive, but that faux granite (quartz?) is less costly and more
durable than granite.
On Wednesday, March 15, 2023 at 7:11:57 PM UTC-4, Casper wrote:
I can't really add much to what's already been said about wood but if
you love it, just learn to care for it properly.
Have several family and friends who insisted on granite. At least one
regrets it now. He inisisted he had to be able to put hot pots and
pans on it with no worries. Told him not a good idea. Fast forward 4
years. Now they're prepping for house resale and replacing half the
counters due to huge cracks caused by hot stuff.
Did he by chance have an electric stovetop?
If not, I wonder why he “had to be able to put hot pots and
pans” on his counter top.
SWMBO loves to cook and often has all 4 gas burners going.
Turn them off, leave the pots where they are. No problem.
On the rare occasion when she needs a burner and all the
pots are hot, there’s a gazillion way to protect the counter
top from the heat.
Really curious about what his insistence was all about.
P.S. Our next range will be duel fuel model. 5 burner gas
stovetop with an electric oven. All the convenience of a
gas stovetop with the even heat of an electric oven.
Does heat expansion affect granite?
Results show that with increasing temperature, the uneven thermal
expansion and thermal shock effect of minerals promote crack
development, leading to increases in the porosity and permeability of
granite, particularly at temperatures above 450°C.
He refused to talk to me about house stuff ever again. It was either
when I told him his contractor hung the hanging lamps too close to the
end cabinets so they could not open all the way. (He never bothered to
have them fixed.) Or when I said wood handled knives in the dishwasher
was bad. (He went thru 3 knife sets in that 4 years.) Live and learn.
May you be happy with whatever you choose.
DerbyDad03 was heard to mutter:
We've been shopping for new counter tops, exclusively looking at the
standard "stone" options - quartz, quartzite, marble, soapstone, etc.
Having not yet come across "the one", we've started doing some
research into wooden countertops. While not excluding butcher block,
I think we know enough about butcher block that we don't need to do
much research on that specific product. It's all the other options that
we are curious about.
Does anyone have any first-hand experience with wooded countertops?
Pro & cons - beyond the need to refinish occasionally? Best types of
wood, installation concerns, etc. FWIW I have stick-build cabinets, built >>> in the 50's. Adding blocking or corner bracing, etc. to support any type of >>> counter top would be quite simple.
Ping Leon - Some of the wooden counter websites mention the Rubio
Monocoat products since it's food safe and easy to refinish. As you and
I know, it's a breeze to work with.
On 3/15/2023 7:37 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
. Best of
all the CO2 levels in our home don't go up cooking with electricity. I
was shocked how much CO2 built up while she was cooking with gas, and
that was measured from the living room. Food for thought.
DerbyDad03 was heard to mutter:
Did he by chance have an electric stovetop?
If not, I wonder why he �had to be able to put hot pots and
pans� on his counter top.
SWMBO loves to cook and often has all 4 gas burners going.
Turn them off, leave the pots where they are. No problem.
On the rare occasion when she needs a burner and all the
pots are hot, there�s a gazillion way to protect the counter
top from the heat.
Really curious about what his insistence was all about.
P.S. Our next range will be duel fuel model. 5 burner gas
stovetop with an electric oven. All the convenience of a
gas stovetop with the even heat of an electric oven.
On Wednesday, March 15, 2023 at 7:11:57?PM UTC-4, Casper wrote:
I can't really add much to what's already been said about wood but if
you love it, just learn to care for it properly.
Have several family and friends who insisted on granite. At least one
regrets it now. He inisisted he had to be able to put hot pots and
pans on it with no worries. Told him not a good idea. Fast forward 4
years. Now they're prepping for house resale and replacing half the
counters due to huge cracks caused by hot stuff.
Does heat expansion affect granite?
Results show that with increasing temperature, the uneven thermal
expansion and thermal shock effect of minerals promote crack
development, leading to increases in the porosity and permeability of
granite, particularly at temperatures above 450�C.
He refused to talk to me about house stuff ever again. It was either
when I told him his contractor hung the hanging lamps too close to the
end cabinets so they could not open all the way. (He never bothered to
have them fixed.) Or when I said wood handled knives in the dishwasher
was bad. (He went thru 3 knife sets in that 4 years.) Live and learn.
May you be happy with whatever you choose.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
On 3/15/2023 7:37 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
. Best of
all the CO2 levels in our home don't go up cooking with electricity. I
was shocked how much CO2 built up while she was cooking with gas, and
that was measured from the living room. Food for thought.
Were you using the exhaust fan while cooking with gas?
He never really gave me a clear answer for the hot stuff on counters.
I suspect it was because his previous home had formica and it got
heavily burnt from pots? Never saw a trivit in the house.
His stove was a hi-end pro gas unit.
He was insistant on a few things, like knives with wood handles able
to go into the dishwasher (warranty was denied). Or having a garbage
disposal he could put everything into including bones (replaced after
6 mos). Or a specific car (BMW6) which had the driver seat heat up so
much it burned holes in itself and his coat.
I stopped having conversations with him about such things because it
only seemed to frustrate and irritate him into hostile reactions.
He was stubborn fellow who sadly passed away last year at age 60,
roughly 2 years after his wife who passed at 59.
DerbyDad03 was heard to mutter:
Did he by chance have an electric stovetop?
If not, I wonder why he “had to be able to put hot pots and
pans” on his counter top.
SWMBO loves to cook and often has all 4 gas burners going.
Turn them off, leave the pots where they are. No problem.
On the rare occasion when she needs a burner and all the
pots are hot, there’s a gazillion way to protect the counter
top from the heat.
Really curious about what his insistence was all about.
P.S. Our next range will be duel fuel model. 5 burner gas
stovetop with an electric oven. All the convenience of a
gas stovetop with the even heat of an electric oven.
On Wednesday, March 15, 2023 at 7:11:57?PM UTC-4, Casper wrote:
I can't really add much to what's already been said about wood but if
you love it, just learn to care for it properly.
Have several family and friends who insisted on granite. At least one
regrets it now. He inisisted he had to be able to put hot pots and
pans on it with no worries. Told him not a good idea. Fast forward 4
years. Now they're prepping for house resale and replacing half the
counters due to huge cracks caused by hot stuff.
Does heat expansion affect granite?
Results show that with increasing temperature, the uneven thermal
expansion and thermal shock effect of minerals promote crack
development, leading to increases in the porosity and permeability of
granite, particularly at temperatures above 450°C.
He refused to talk to me about house stuff ever again. It was either
when I told him his contractor hung the hanging lamps too close to the
end cabinets so they could not open all the way. (He never bothered to
have them fixed.) Or when I said wood handled knives in the dishwasher
was bad. (He went thru 3 knife sets in that 4 years.) Live and learn.
May you be happy with whatever you choose.
Some people, don't know enough about most everything that they don't >understand what they don't know.
My nephew's wife is like that, 50 years old. She claims she is smarter
than most every one and actually claimed that she could run Microsoft,
but does not work. But she has a CPA do their taxes. Oh, and Covid,
that is a government conspiracy. AND, LOL, she change their family
doctor because he charted all of their kids as unvaccinated, for any
disease. Another conspiracy theory. I'm thinking that the doctor
does not want to rule out diseases that most patients have been
vaccinated for. So they live in a cocoon environment.
Leon
| Sysop: | Keyop |
|---|---|
| Location: | Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK |
| Users: | 715 |
| Nodes: | 16 (2 / 14) |
| Uptime: | 31:08:53 |
| Calls: | 12,108 |
| Calls today: | 8 |
| Files: | 15,006 |
| Messages: | 6,518,267 |
