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  • Cross process c41 with black and white chemicals

    From [email protected]@21:1/5 to Jimmy Lane on Sun Dec 3 06:12:30 2017
    On Friday, May 8, 2015 at 5:39:55 PM UTC-6, Jimmy Lane wrote:
    Oh boy...didn't mean to bring this thread back from the dead....the OP asked in 2009!!! He probably is shooting with a DSLR by now unless he is really dedicated or shooting MF/LF

    Here we are in 2017. I've got a lot of far-outdated Fuji E6 that was ridiculous (purple) when only a couple of years outdated, processed professionally. Since I've got a dozen 120 rolls of this stuff, stored badly in a hot garage, I'm going to try one of
    them with Rodinal (!) b&w chem. If I get any sort of images I'll scan with my old Epson flatbed (which was as sharp as a friend's Omega but not as sharp as my condenser Durst).

    I'll semi-stand develop (only a couple of inversions) 15 minutes @ 1+100. Stand processing isn't temperature or time critical...my favorite with 35mm b&w film but probably uneven with 120. If results are semi-normal looking I may also try D76 or some
    other humdrum developer, perhaps Plus-X times.

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  • From [email protected]@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Sun Dec 3 06:15:03 2017
    On Sunday, December 3, 2017 at 7:12:31 AM UTC-7, [email protected] wrote:
    On Friday, May 8, 2015 at 5:39:55 PM UTC-6, Jimmy Lane wrote:
    Oh boy...didn't mean to bring this thread back from the dead....the OP asked in 2009!!! He probably is shooting with a DSLR by now unless he is really dedicated or shooting MF/LF

    Here we are in 2017. I've got a lot of far-outdated Fuji E6 that was ridiculous (purple) when only a couple of years outdated, processed professionally. Since I've got a dozen 120 rolls of this stuff, stored badly in a hot garage, I'm going to try one
    of them with Rodinal (!) b&w chem. If I get any sort of images I'll scan with my old Epson flatbed (which was as sharp as a friend's Omega but not as sharp as my condenser Durst).

    I'll semi-stand develop (only a couple of inversions) 15 minutes @ 1+100. Stand processing isn't temperature or time critical...my favorite with 35mm b&w film but probably uneven with 120. If results are semi-normal looking I may also try D76 or some
    other humdrum developer, perhaps Plus-X times.

    By the way, I'm not trying for "cross process" effect, I'm just hoping for a useful/fun negative for scanning and inkjet printing as Black and White.

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  • From [email protected]@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Fri Jun 8 10:12:55 2018
    On Tuesday, 3 February 2009 17:49:16 UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
    Does anyone have some ballpark times or even qualitative guesses for processing color print film with black and white chemicals?

    I'm taking a class and have free (as in beer) access to b/w
    chemicals. Also, I have a few rolls of color (and some slides) laying
    around and would be interested to see what they look like when cross processed.

    It's kind of silly, but I don't plan on using the rolls for anything
    else.

    I frequently do this using stand development with Rodinal 1+100.
    Works great for pretty well every film.

    I have noticed that Kodak gold 400, I can follow the times for Ilford HP5 and it gives me really nice contrast negatives.

    Good luck.

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  • From Zappi@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Mon Jun 22 23:01:06 2020
    On 7/12/13 3:37 pm, [email protected] wrote:
    On Tuesday, February 3, 2009 5:49:16 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
    Does anyone have some ballpark times or even qualitative guesses for
    processing color print film with black and white chemicals?

    I'm taking a class and have free (as in beer) access to b/w
    chemicals. Also, I have a few rolls of color (and some slides) laying
    around and would be interested to see what they look like when cross
    processed.

    It's kind of silly, but I don't plan on using the rolls for anything
    else.


    I've developed a few C-41 films (expired Kodacolour 400 and fresh 200)
    using variations on the times for Ilford XP2 (I use Ilfosol 3). Since
    they have less silver in them it's better to develop for a bit longer
    than not enough!

    You should get decently contrasty negatives - tones aren't the best but
    they look passable.

    --
    ------------
    Zappi
    https://zappi.xyz/
    [email protected]
    zappi on irc.gotham.chat
    -----------

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  • From Wilbert Vandenberg@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 31 08:53:48 2020
    https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=develop+C41+in+B+W+chemistry

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  • From Ken Hart@21:1/5 to Wilbert Vandenberg on Thu Dec 31 14:53:08 2020
    On 12/31/20 11:53 AM, Wilbert Vandenberg wrote:
    https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=develop+C41+in+B+W+chemistry


    Sure, it will work. Printing exposures will be long because of the
    orange mask of the color negs. The orange mask may affect polycontrast
    papers.

    But why do it? Color chems are not that expensive. I buy Fuji C-41
    chemicals in 10L packages, and mix only what I need. It's helpful to
    have a couple of syringes for those 6mL of parts B & C!
    Color film developing isn't that difficult. Developing is done at 100F
    plus or minus 0.5F. But it's only for 3.5 minutes. The rest of the
    chemicals are plus or minus 5F.

    --
    Ken Hart
    [email protected]

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