For the type of work I do I buy a bit of aluminum flat bar. My last
order was a little over 900lbs of 12ft long bars, and I had another
600-700 lbs of full bars on hand plus shorts and cutoff.

The cutoffs I put on shelves, but the 12 footers I really haven't a
place for. At the moment I've got the latest order outdoors leaning up
against a shipping container, and the rest of the older stock is leaning
up against shelves and walls inside the shop. The inside of the
shipping container is lined with shelves being used to recover space in
the shop, and it's not setup for practical stock storage.

I hate it.

Of course I also buy a little bit of 20' aluminum pipe and tube. That
is to long to lean up against anything inside the shop, but one problem
at a time.

If you have a storage solution for the standard (maybe only USA
standard) 12 foot stock flat bar I'd love to see it. My shop has a 16ft
eave height so I can store it vertically anywhere inside that I have the
floor space, but I am trying to recover, not lose floor space right now.
I am even considering just storing it all outdoors.

Modify message

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff


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On 6/9/2025 10:00 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Jim Wilkins"  wrote in message news:102890r$116qk$[email protected]...

A fixed rack below the
beams was better, it can be suspended at all four corners if there's extra space at one end to angle long stock in. Supporting long stock ~1/4 of its length in from both ends bends it the least. ---------------------------------
If you leave one stock length clear at one end of a roof-suspended rack
you can lift a piece by its center with a chainfall hung slightly less
than half a stock length out from the end of the rack. When it's at rack height you can climb a ladder, support the end of the stock on the rack
and slide it in. The chainfall sling will support the outer end while
you move the ladder until the stock balances on the rack.

This way you could move twice the weight you can lift with minimal
equipment, since you lift only half its weight at the end. I can slide a
20', 400 Lb wooden beam onto a stack, though not from a stepladder. I temporarily hang a gantry track across the center of the stack of beams
to pile more onto it.

Sawmill practice is to place thin wood strips between rows to speed
drying. I found that 3/4" spacing is too tight for mice to nest and foul
the space. The spacers or "stickers" allow slipping a webbing sling
around the stock, or a forklift fork under it.
jsw

I decided to throw money at the problem. Behind my shop is a 20x60
concrete slab. On the edge of the slab was is where I placed the 40'
high cube container leaving 12 feet between the container and the
building.

My future plan has been to place two 20ft continers that are current at
my parents house on the far end of the slab facing outwards (doors will
open over dirt), and one I already have (currently out front) against
the building parallel to the 40 footer. This leaves a 4 foot passage (nominally) between the 40 foot containers and the other containers and
a 12 x 24 open area protected from casual view.

Its always been my plan to put a 12 x 20 shade structure for outdoor
work in that 12 x 24 space for blacksmithing, foundry work, etc. The
little bit of blacksmithing I do now is typically done just inside the
south door of the shop with the overhead door standing open. I set my
little blacksmith furnace on the welding table. The light is not ideal.
It makes it hard to see the color of the metal with the direct
sunlight coming in the door.

I had planned to add the shade structure after the containers were in
place, but I can add it first. I just need to be extra careful when
placing the parallel container so I do not damage the shade. After the containers are in place I can move any racking I buy or build inside one
of the containers.

I threw money at it and ordered the shade this morning.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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On 6/10/2025 6:24 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:1029tpe$1dr7m$[email protected]...

..

I threw money at it and ordered the shade this morning.
Bob La Londe

Which one?

This one. https://www.homedepot.com/p/VIWAT-12-ft-W-x-20-ft-D-Metal-Carport-with-Enhanced-Base-Outdoor-Heavy-Duty-Garage-Galvanized-Car-Canopy-and-Shelter-MCR-M2012-DG-1/333138115

I'm not to worried about rain damage. Dust wind are the big worries
here. Rain will dry off of it quick enough. I found cheaper ones, but
with freight they cost more. This one was free freight to me.



--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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On 6/10/2025 4:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

Then there's the matter of what besides art and fake antiques can be
forged more easily than welded and machined, or bought used. After
taking the smithing class I concluded not much.

You are right. I originally bought a small 80lb Russian anvil off of
eBay. Was supposed ot be cast steel of a certain hardness, but it acts
and sparks like cast iron. It was mostly for cold work. London pattern
anvils are handy for shaping metal, but I have a presses, brakes, vises,
and hammers. If you are sure of yourself most mild steel can be done
cold worked, as long as you don't work it to its fatigue point.

When my son took a blacksmithing class in college he developed a bit of
an interest, and I picked up a slightly larger Chinese anvil that IS
cast steel hardened into the high 30s low 40s RC.

Most of the time when I need to do any hot work its easiest to just
clamp a rosebud in the vise for small parts.

My son and I have done some "art" pieces... more beating on metal for
fun than real art. More like craft pieces at best. For me that was
fun, and the hobby of blacksmithing allowed me to have a few easy birthday/Christmas present choices for him.

I have also used the forge furnace a few times for upsetting the ends on
shop made vise handles instead of machining balls for the ends, heat
shrinking parts, and other heat assisted operations. I've alos used the propane BBQ grill for heat shrinking.

I'm more likely to do some foundry work for direct commercial purposes,
and its the reason I went with a 12x20 instead for a 12x24 shade
structure. So the top blast of a foundry furnace doesn't burn a hole in
it.


--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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On 6/9/2025 4:50 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

For the type of work I do I buy a bit of aluminum flat bar.  My last
order was a little over 900lbs of 12ft long bars, and I had another
600-700 lbs of full bars on hand plus shorts and cutoff.

The cutoffs I put on shelves, but the 12 footers I really haven't a
place for.  At the moment I've got the latest order outdoors leaning up against a shipping container, and the rest of the older stock is leaning
up against shelves and walls inside the shop.  The inside of the
shipping container is lined with shelves being used to recover space in
the shop, and it's not setup for practical stock storage.

I hate it.

Of course I also buy a little bit of 20' aluminum pipe and tube.  That
is to long to lean up against anything inside the shop, but one problem
at a time.

If you have a storage solution for the standard (maybe only USA
standard) 12 foot stock flat bar I'd love to see it.  My shop has a 16ft eave height so I can store it vertically anywhere inside that I have the floor space, but I am trying to recover, not lose floor space right now.
 I am even considering just storing it all outdoors.

Modify message

Okay, one of two carports is setup. I have the second one, but have not
had time to set it up.

I was going to buy heavy cantilever racks, and even ordered some from a
vendor who then changed the lead time by several weeks after they had my
money, so I canceled the order.

Then I thought about it. Most of my working stock is aluminum. I order
upto 900-1000 lbs at a time, and more than half is always gone by the
time I make another order that size. Special size stock is usually
ordered in less than bar size. Just enough to complete the job it is
for. I almost never have more than 2000lbs of aluminum on hand and
usually much less.

I ordered two of these: https://www.zoro.com/vestil-self-supporting-rack-2000-lb-sr-ss/i/G5580508/

I figure if I set them in line with each other I can (if loaded evenly)
store 4000lbs (probably a little more due to safety margins) of aluminum
bar stock on them, and they are cheap compared to the heavy cantilever
racks I was looking at. I would have preferred single sided heavy
cantilever racks due to the smaller space they take up for their load
capacity, but price and lead time (I know they would have been here by
now, LOL) made the choice for me. Also, Zoro sends out 20% off coupons.
I used one.

The new racks should be here next week.

I am already using the space outdoors under the carport between the
building and the shipping container for prepping stock with a carbide
tooth metal cutting chop saw. It cuts stock in a fraction of the time
of the bandsaw. I can't leave it unattended like the bandsaw, but its
so fast it doesn't matter.


--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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On 7/31/2025 2:52 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:106ggvi$3vvg3$[email protected]...

Okay, one of two carports is setup.  I have the second one, but have
not had time to set it up.

Here on the diagonally (and politically) opposite corner of the US I
store my aluminum bar and tube stock outdoors under a roof too. With our large, rapid and frequent temperature and humidity changes moisture
sometimes condenses or drips on it and degrades the finish, though not seriously enough to affect hobby projects. I keep the collet-sized stock indoors.

A metal roof can be bad for dripping condensation.

https://www.boston-discovery-guide.com/boston-weather-forecast.html

I had not considered that, but most metal buildings around here are
insulated. Sheds tend not to be. If its an issue several sheets
styrofoam, and a spray can or 3 of 3M 77 spray adhesive should fix it
for the most part.

Humidity is pretty low here most of the year, but we do sometimes get
morning dew. I'll keep an eye on it.

--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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