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  • I'm going to brake the rust

    From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jul 24 12:49:19 2023
    Or de-rust the brakes. Something down there makes scraping sounds when I
    turn. I began with the brakes because they are the easiest to inspect and clean, and have previously made contact noise due to rust buildup that I
    found I hadn't completely removed. This time I bolted a leg vise to an
    outdoor table so I have both hands free to hammer and chisel the rust. The rotor is in a 3-jaw with a 5C mount in a spin index, not exactly a brake
    lathe but good enough to hold and rotate it while grinding down the outer
    edge rust buildup. The chuck and spin index would have been enough to mill
    and drill a copy of the lathe spindle spider.

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  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Mon Jul 24 14:36:52 2023
    On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 12:49:19 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> wrote:

    Or de-rust the brakes. Something down there makes scraping sounds when I >turn. I began with the brakes because they are the easiest to inspect and >clean, and have previously made contact noise due to rust buildup that I >found I hadn't completely removed. This time I bolted a leg vise to an >outdoor table so I have both hands free to hammer and chisel the rust. The >rotor is in a 3-jaw with a 5C mount in a spin index, not exactly a brake >lathe but good enough to hold and rotate it while grinding down the outer >edge rust buildup. The chuck and spin index would have been enough to mill >and drill a copy of the lathe spindle spider.


    Messy job, not much fun with that...

    Did similar to my 1982 Chevy K10 several times for odd scraping noises.
    Front could be done with an old file and wire brush. Rear drums could
    be pulled off. Usually a ton of dust and detritus in the drum and whole
    brake assembly that needed a good blow job😬

    You can get coated versions nowadays that are suppose to hold up better
    where we keep our roads well seasoned in the winter. Just checked
    Rockauto and they're not as expensive as I would have guessed, $50-60
    for a 1996 Explorer.

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

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  • From Clare Snyder@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jul 24 17:16:57 2023
    On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 14:36:52 -0400, Leon Fisk <[email protected]d>
    wrote:

    On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 12:49:19 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> wrote:

    Or de-rust the brakes. Something down there makes scraping sounds when I >>turn. I began with the brakes because they are the easiest to inspect and >>clean, and have previously made contact noise due to rust buildup that I >>found I hadn't completely removed. This time I bolted a leg vise to an >>outdoor table so I have both hands free to hammer and chisel the rust. The >>rotor is in a 3-jaw with a 5C mount in a spin index, not exactly a brake >>lathe but good enough to hold and rotate it while grinding down the outer >>edge rust buildup. The chuck and spin index would have been enough to mill >>and drill a copy of the lathe spindle spider.


    Messy job, not much fun with that...

    Did similar to my 1982 Chevy K10 several times for odd scraping noises.
    Front could be done with an old file and wire brush. Rear drums could
    be pulled off. Usually a ton of dust and detritus in the drum and whole
    brake assembly that needed a good blow job?

    You can get coated versions nowadays that are suppose to hold up better
    where we keep our roads well seasoned in the winter. Just checked
    Rockauto and they're not as expensive as I would have guessed, $50-60
    for a 1996 Explorer.
    The coated ones help - at least they delay the inevitable. I find a
    small ball pien hammer works good on the rotors o just tap-tap-tal all
    around both inner and outer edges while still mounted and most of the
    heavy stuff comes off. What is harder to fix is the "splash shield"
    rubbing on the rotor. Generally just tear them off. I do the same on
    the drums, but with them remobed, then hit them lightly with a flap
    disk on the 4 1/2 inch angle grinder to get off the rest.

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Mon Jul 24 17:44:12 2023
    "Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:u9mgc4$olsc$[email protected]...

    On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 12:49:19 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> wrote:

    Or de-rust the brakes. Something down there makes scraping sounds when I >turn. I began with the brakes because they are the easiest to inspect and >clean, and have previously made contact noise due to rust buildup that I >found I hadn't completely removed. This time I bolted a leg vise to an >outdoor table so I have both hands free to hammer and chisel the rust. The >rotor is in a 3-jaw with a 5C mount in a spin index, not exactly a brake >lathe but good enough to hold and rotate it while grinding down the outer >edge rust buildup. The chuck and spin index would have been enough to mill >and drill a copy of the lathe spindle spider.


    Messy job, not much fun with that...

    Did similar to my 1982 Chevy K10 several times for odd scraping noises.
    Front could be done with an old file and wire brush. Rear drums could
    be pulled off. Usually a ton of dust and detritus in the drum and whole
    brake assembly that needed a good blow job😬

    You can get coated versions nowadays that are suppose to hold up better
    where we keep our roads well seasoned in the winter. Just checked
    Rockauto and they're not as expensive as I would have guessed, $50-60
    for a 1996 Explorer.
    Leon Fisk

    --------------------

    The problem appears to have been a loosely attached fragment of the rusty
    front brake dust shield that may have swung against the rotor when turning
    at speed. I was concerned that water might have entered the hub and caused rust, but the wheel bearing free play is still well within spec. Everything
    got a good scrubbing and CRC high temp brake grease where the shop manual indicates, a task I've neglected since putting on all-season tires instead
    of swapping 3-season and winter tires. Since retiring I have little reason
    to drive unless the roads are dry.

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jul 24 18:30:27 2023
    "Clare Snyder" wrote in message news:[email protected]...

    ... What is harder to fix is the "splash shield"
    rubbing on the rotor. Generally just tear them off. I do the same on
    the drums, but with them remo[v]ed, then hit them lightly with a flap
    disk on the 4 1/2 inch angle grinder to get off the rest.

    ------------------

    The Ford's old shields came off easily and I copied them in 22 gauge galvanized, which has held up well. I formed the stiffening flange around
    the edge with stovepipe crimping pliers. Unfortunately changing the Honda's
    may require disassembling the suspension and pressing the hub apart, which could happen.

    I used to put the drums back on facing out to grind off the rust rim that
    makes removing them difficult, but the 3-jaw in the spin index is much more convenient and at a better working height which matters to high-mileage
    knees. My lathe is only 10", too small for brakes.

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  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Tue Jul 25 08:48:29 2023
    On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 17:44:12 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <[email protected]> wrote:

    <snip>
    Since retiring I have little reason
    to drive unless the roads are dry.

    Me too🙂 I have a usual store day but will go a day or two earlier or
    later to avoid the salted roads. The only bugaboo is appointments.
    Try to avoid making any during the "salt" months...

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

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