Ordinarily when I need to setup an accurate taper on the lathe I install
a test bar and use an indicator and the rise over run method to bump in
the compound. Sometimes that's way over kill. Plus or minus a degree
is good enough. Okay half degree if single point threading, but
still... Sometimes the protractor on the cross slide below the compound
is plenty good enough.

A few weeks ago I was hacking out something, and I went to set the angle
only to find all the markings were gone. There was a nice aluminum
insert glued into a slot on the cross slide, but instead of being
engraved it was printed. When I wiped the gook off so I could read
there weren't any. I eyeballed it with a hand held angle gage and
finished my part, but I had to go get that angle gage. Its a tool I
keep in my desk. Not one I keep at the lathe.

In between other things i pulled the compound, measured up the various
radii, and laid out a new scale.

Image: http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/index.php/Bob-s-Workshop/IMG_20230422_163637701

There is 2-3 degrees of adjustment in the slot. I probably should have
made the screw slots shorter. Who knows. I might not even put screws
in. I might just glue it in place with something a little stronger than
the rubber gook that help in the old one.


--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

--
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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u21t4m$3fv9i$[email protected]...

In between other things i pulled the compound, measured up the various
radii, and laid out a new scale.

Image: http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/index.php/Bob-s-Workshop/IMG_20230422_163637701

---------------------

NICE!

I assume you made it with CNC. My attempts to engrave angle scales manually
did NOT look that good, especially the stamped numbers.

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On 23/04/2023 01:12, Bob La Londe wrote:

Ordinarily when I need to setup an accurate taper on the lathe I
install a test bar and use an indicator and the rise over run method
to bump in the compound.  Sometimes that's way over kill.  Plus or
minus a degree is good enough.  Okay half degree if single point
threading, but still...  Sometimes the protractor on the cross slide
below the compound is plenty good enough.

A few weeks ago I was hacking out something, and I went to set the
angle only to find all the markings were gone.  There was a nice
aluminum insert glued into a slot on the cross slide, but instead of
being engraved it was printed.  When I wiped the gook off so I could
read there weren't any.  I eyeballed it with a hand held angle gage
and finished my part, but I had to go get that angle gage.  Its a tool
I keep in my desk.  Not one I keep at the lathe.

In between other things i pulled the compound, measured up the various
radii, and laid out a new scale.

Image: http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/index.php/Bob-s-Workshop/IMG_20230422_163637701

There is 2-3 degrees of adjustment in the slot.  I probably should
have made the screw slots shorter.  Who knows.  I might not even put
screws in.  I might just glue it in place with something a little
stronger than the rubber gook that help in the old one.

Very nice, I wonder if you could add a vernier scale to the other part
to aid accurate set-up in the future. I've done similar on a bender I
made using a rotary table and a single point lathe tool held in the
quill on my BP, for getting the numbers accurately aligned I used the
DRO for the offsets and made a guide for my number stamps so the digits
were where I wanted them and the results were really good, a mate asked
if it was a bought tool. That guide I've mentioned before IIRC as one
end was held by a collet and another rod went into the hole at the side
of the BP quill housing so the guide was fixed.

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"David Billington" wrote in message news:u23abm$3qc89$[email protected]...
...
made a guide for my number stamps so the digits were where I wanted them

-------------------

How? The shanks of my set are too large to give proper spacing between the numbers.

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On 23/04/2023 15:48, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"David Billington"  wrote in message news:u23abm$3qc89$[email protected]... ...
made a guide for my number stamps so the digits were where I wanted them

-------------------

How? The shanks of my set are too large to give proper spacing between
the numbers.

The digits were done one at a time as the guide was intended for a
single punch and the position changed for the next digit so I could get
the digits centred around the line. I have subsequently acquired a set
of Prior alphanumeric punches intended for making up multi letter/digit combinations as the punch widths vary with the letter/digit width so
next time I do to do that sort of operation I'll use those.

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On 4/23/2023 4:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:u21t4m$3fv9i$[email protected]...

In between other things i pulled the compound, measured up the various
radii, and laid out a new scale.

Image: http://www.yumabassman.com/gallery/index.php/Bob-s-Workshop/IMG_20230422_163637701

---------------------

NICE!

I assume you made it with CNC. My attempts to engrave angle scales
manually did NOT look that good, especially the stamped numbers.

Yep. CNC. I created the whole part in my CAM (not CAD) software which
has decent 2D CAD capabilities. I used the XY plane origin for
reference as an easy arc center for everything. When the Y coordinate
was about right for the text, I aligned to center on the Y axis. Then
it was a matter of copy, paste, change text, align, rotate ten degrees.
50 and 60 were moved a few degrees to leave more room for the screw
slots. All of the markings were laid out much the same way, except I
used a polar array copy function.

--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist


--
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"David Billington" wrote in message news:u23i11$3rrg1$[email protected]...

On 23/04/2023 15:48, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"David Billington" wrote in message news:u23abm$3qc89$[email protected]...
...
made a guide for my number stamps so the digits were where I wanted them

-------------------

How? The shanks of my set are too large to give proper spacing between the numbers.

The digits were done one at a time as the guide was intended for a
single punch and the position changed for the next digit so I could get
the digits centred around the line. I have subsequently acquired a set
of Prior alphanumeric punches intended for making up multi letter/digit combinations as the punch widths vary with the letter/digit width so
next time I do to do that sort of operation I'll use those.

-------------------------

My Enco punches worked well enough on flat sheet stainless to make tags
giving the working load of chain, but often the workpiece is rounded such as
a dial and aligning the bottoms against a thin strip still leaves the text wobbly and unevenly spaced. I'm not skilled enough to engrave neatly, maybe
I should practice.

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On 4/23/2023 9:25 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"David Billington"  wrote in message news:u23i11$3rrg1$[email protected]...

On 23/04/2023 15:48, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"David Billington"  wrote in message news:u23abm$3qc89$[email protected]... >> ...
made a guide for my number stamps so the digits were where I wanted them

-------------------

How? The shanks of my set are too large to give proper spacing between
the numbers.

The digits were done one at a time as the guide was intended for a
single punch and the position changed for the next digit so I could get
the digits centred around the line. I have subsequently acquired a set
of Prior alphanumeric punches intended for making up multi letter/digit combinations as the punch widths vary with the letter/digit width so
next time I do to do that sort of operation I'll use those.

-------------------------

My Enco punches worked well enough on flat sheet stainless to make tags giving the working load of chain, but often the workpiece is rounded
such as a dial and aligning the bottoms against a thin strip still
leaves the text wobbly and unevenly spaced. I'm not skilled enough to
engrave neatly, maybe I should practice.

There are a couple videos on making letter number punch guides, but the
basic concept is not dissimilar to a drill guide block or tap guide
block. I am 100% certain you can make something adequate in an
afternoon if you want to. I don't think that is all of the problem
people experience though. As you noted a curved surface can be an
issue, but if you made a guide with enough thickness to hold the punch
straight up well enough, at the least your lettering would be uniformly
stamped from one to the next even if it will be non uniform on an
individual basis due to the curved work piece material. Often I think
people actually do a fair job of positioning, but because its a non
uniform width font on your standard block letter punch sets it looks off
even when it is not. This is where CAD/CAM and CNC can shine. You can
center your markings regardless of the size of the individual
characters. Of course you can also map a curved surface, or if drag
engraving use a spring loaded engraver.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff


--
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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u23n1r$3sleq$[email protected]...

On 4/23/2023 4:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u21t4m$3fv9i$[email protected]...

NICE!

I assume you made it with CNC. My attempts to engrave angle scales
manually did NOT look that good, especially the stamped numbers.

Yep. CNC. I created the whole part in my CAM (not CAD) software which
has decent 2D CAD capabilities. I used the XY plane origin for
reference as an easy arc center for everything. When the Y coordinate
was about right for the text, I aligned to center on the Y axis. Then
it was a matter of copy, paste, change text, align, rotate ten degrees.
50 and 60 were moved a few degrees to leave more room for the screw
slots. All of the markings were laid out much the same way, except I
used a polar array copy function.

Bob La Londe

-------------------

I spent nearly a decade using CAD to design circuit boards and their milled RF-tight housings so I understand the concepts. I can't justify CNC for
hobby use since most of what I do is cut-and-try fitting to existing parts,
for example fabricating a new heat shield for a catalytic converter. I do
draw new parts such as the gantry track splice with a trial version of the
PCB program, whose line drawing functions cover every shape I can manually machine, or in that 16 foot long instance lay out, center punch and drill in the driveway.

The flange at the rear of my 2000 CRV's original catcon rusted away enough
to loosen the joint to the muffler pipe, which then rattled although I
couldn't detect the play, only the metallic clank when I hit that area with
my hand. Suspecting internal breakage I bought and installed a new catcon
and oxygen sensor, then saw that nothing was loose inside the original, although the flange holes had reduced to less than half circles and were
barely holding the bolt heads. Originally they were studs, lost long ago to road salt. I suppose that at 80,000 miles it didn't owe me anything and may
be partly clogged.

The new Magnaflow catcon didn't have a heat shield while the OEM one did.
The apparently knowledgeable parts clerk said rotted-off heat shields
haven't caused problems and many come without them. At idle after a trip my thermal imager shows 185F on the catcon body, and a max of 626F upstream of
it where there never was a shield. I previously made a stainless louvered
heat shield for the original which wasn't an ideal fit though it's better on the Magnaflow.

Do y'all think I should install the shield or only the top half if one
wasn't provided?

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On 4/23/2023 11:57 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:u23n1r$3sleq$[email protected]...

On 4/23/2023 4:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:u21t4m$3fv9i$[email protected]...

NICE!

I assume you made it with CNC. My attempts to engrave angle scales
manually did NOT look that good, especially the stamped numbers.

Yep.  CNC.  I created the whole part in my CAM (not CAD) software which
has decent 2D CAD capabilities.  I used the XY plane origin for
reference as an easy arc center for everything.  When the Y coordinate
was about right for the text, I aligned to center on the Y axis.  Then
it was a matter of copy, paste, change text, align, rotate ten degrees.
50 and 60 were moved a few degrees to leave more room for the screw
slots.  All of the markings were laid out much the same way, except I
used a polar array copy function.

Bob La Londe

-------------------

I spent nearly a decade using CAD to design circuit boards and their
milled RF-tight housings so I understand the concepts. I can't justify
CNC for hobby use

Maybe you just can't justify those high dollar machines you were spoiled
on in industry... I can do pretty good work with a lot less machine
than that, and some of those old industrial machines weren't really as
good as some people's memories of them are.


since most of what I do is cut-and-try fitting to > Do y'all think I
should install the shield or only the top half if one

wasn't provided?

The floor of the vehicle cabin is an amazing heat shield, but getting it
hot makes it more reactive chemically. You decide. Maybe think of an
actual heat shield as a sacrificial anode.


--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff


--
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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u244fd$3uqee$[email protected]...

On 4/23/2023 11:57 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

I spent nearly a decade using CAD to design circuit boards and their
milled RF-tight housings so I understand the concepts. I can't justify CNC for hobby use

Maybe you just can't justify those high dollar machines you were spoiled
on in industry... I can do pretty good work with a lot less machine
than that, and some of those old industrial machines weren't really as
good as some people's memories of them are.


since most of what I do is cut-and-try fitting to > Do y'all think I
should install the shield or only the top half if one

wasn't provided?

The floor of the vehicle cabin is an amazing heat shield, but getting it
hot makes it more reactive chemically. You decide. Maybe think of an
actual heat shield as a sacrificial anode.

---------------------
"Maybe you just can't justify those high dollar machines you were spoiled
on in industry"

I wasn't exactly spoiled by a ProtoTRAK Bridgeport that I used mostly in jog mode, since the Segway chassis castings I was modifying or imitating weren't all that well specified on the print, some features were "see the pattern", notably the tapered battery pack locating posts. I got the jobs that needed old-fashioned scribe and punch layout experience.

At Mitre I designed parts to be milled on a Hurco though I never was allowed
to run it. My only formal CNC training was writing G code for the Emco
Compact 5 lathe.

"some of those old industrial machines weren't really as
good as some people's memories of them are."

What do you think I'm using now? Instead of a '65 Mustang my Old American
Iron is a '65 South Bend Heavy 10, much more use to me.

The conflicting consideration for the catcon is if it might run hotter than designed with airflow restricted. If I start smelling hot plastic I can
stuff a thermocouple under the carpet to monitor the temperature. Since retirement I've timed my errands to avoid traffic jams.

https://www.amazon.com/K-Type-Digital-Thermometer-TM-902C-Thermocouple/dp/B016EILWBM
"Age Range: Adult"

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