I recently borrowed a glider in a late 1990s Cobra trailer with a fiberglass top. The rear door is secured by a) the original barrel bolt sliding door latch (i.e. True Value Hardware $5.99 part) and b) a rotating hook operated by a locking T Handle onthe trailer top which hooks over another $0.39 True Value Hardware 3/8 bolt. Nether of these is particularly secure against fore/aft loads such as when accelerating from a stop. In fact, the rear door swung down on its own luckily in the last mile of a
Anyone found a nice, industrial-quality latch that will fit the available dimensions at the rear end of the trailer? I ordered a pair of these, but interested in what else folks have come up with.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G123W22?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 10:05:10 AM UTC-4, Papa3 wrote:on the trailer top which hooks over another $0.39 True Value Hardware 3/8 bolt. Nether of these is particularly secure against fore/aft loads such as when accelerating from a stop. In fact, the rear door swung down on its own luckily in the last mile of
I recently borrowed a glider in a late 1990s Cobra trailer with a fiberglass top. The rear door is secured by a) the original barrel bolt sliding door latch (i.e. True Value Hardware $5.99 part) and b) a rotating hook operated by a locking T Handle
Anyone found a nice, industrial-quality latch that will fit the available dimensions at the rear end of the trailer? I ordered a pair of these, but interested in what else folks have come up with.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G123W22?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsSome folks have added a second slide bolt on the other side for redundancy. UH
Most Cobra trailers I have seen utilize a barrel-type latch that has a plunger that goes in a hole on the side rail inside the trailer. Usually, only one latch is installed, but I have also seen applications with a latch on each side. Due to vibrationover time, sometimes the hole in the sidewall becomes enlarged. I have fixed this by riveting a stainless-steel plate with a properly sized hole over the elongated hole.
https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/barrel-bolt-latch
On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 7:51:22 AM UTC-7, Hank Nixon wrote:on the trailer top which hooks over another $0.39 True Value Hardware 3/8 bolt. Nether of these is particularly secure against fore/aft loads such as when accelerating from a stop. In fact, the rear door swung down on its own luckily in the last mile of
On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 10:05:10 AM UTC-4, Papa3 wrote:
I recently borrowed a glider in a late 1990s Cobra trailer with a fiberglass top. The rear door is secured by a) the original barrel bolt sliding door latch (i.e. True Value Hardware $5.99 part) and b) a rotating hook operated by a locking T Handle
worrisome due to its size and weight, jumping around inches from glider parts! It’s held in place by a bolt extending into the same door made of soft aluminum !Anyone found a nice, industrial-quality latch that will fit the available dimensions at the rear end of the trailer? I ordered a pair of these, but interested in what else folks have come up with.
Mark is correct, the latch isn’t the problem!https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G123W22?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsSome folks have added a second slide bolt on the other side for redundancy.
UH
The hole in the soft aluminum side becomes enlarged due to constant vibration, until it no longer holds the rear door closed. I just moved the latch down a bit and started beating a new elongated hole!
Two latches is a good fix for those who like to wear a belt and suspenders! An interesting experiment is to take a ride inside your trailer! You will be surprised at what’s going on in there when going down a bumpy county road! Most everything in bumping, rattling or just flopping around! The jack and ramp is the most
JJ
On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 10:50:48 AM UTC-4, Mark Mocho wrote:vibration over time, sometimes the hole in the sidewall becomes enlarged. I have fixed this by riveting a stainless-steel plate with a properly sized hole over the elongated hole.
Most Cobra trailers I have seen utilize a barrel-type latch that has a plunger that goes in a hole on the side rail inside the trailer. Usually, only one latch is installed, but I have also seen applications with a latch on each side. Due to
https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/barrel-bolt-latchYup - noticed that. I'll start with a doubler around the hole on the one side and maybe try one of the 90 degree latches on the other.
On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 2:08:18 PM UTC-4, Papa3 wrote:vibration over time, sometimes the hole in the sidewall becomes enlarged. I have fixed this by riveting a stainless-steel plate with a properly sized hole over the elongated hole.
On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 10:50:48 AM UTC-4, Mark Mocho wrote:
Most Cobra trailers I have seen utilize a barrel-type latch that has a plunger that goes in a hole on the side rail inside the trailer. Usually, only one latch is installed, but I have also seen applications with a latch on each side. Due to
UH, you are correct, a double piece of material with a matching hole can and will solve the problem. The plunger should go through a piece of material that is harder than the aluminum side panel. I put these so called door locks on both sides of theA fender washer makes a quick and easy doubler. Fasten with 4 steel pop rivets.https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/barrel-bolt-latchYup - noticed that. I'll start with a doubler around the hole on the one side and maybe try one of the 90 degree latches on the other.
UH
An interesting experiment is to take a ride inside your trailer! You will be surprised at what’s going on in there when going down a bumpy county road! Most everything in bumping, rattling or just flopping around!Fortunately for us, the glider G-meter does not indicate trailering loads accurately, as it is tuned for flight loads, which do not have the same frequencies in them that trailer loads do. To confirm this, I suggest you ride in the cockpit of a glider
Bob Carlton tows his airshow glider thousands of miles per year and says that the G Meter is pegged at +10 and -10 within just a few miles, even on a smooth highway.
On Tuesday, May 30, 2023 at 11:45:43 AM UTC-7, Mark Mocho wrote:being trailered, to compare your butt feelings with the G meter readings. Video it for YouTube!
An interesting experiment is to take a ride inside your trailer! You will be surprised at what’s going on in there when going down a bumpy county road! Most everything in bumping, rattling or just flopping around!Fortunately for us, the glider G-meter does not indicate trailering loads accurately, as it is tuned for flight loads, which do not have the same frequencies in them that trailer loads do. To confirm this, I suggest you ride in the cockpit of a glider
Bob Carlton tows his airshow glider thousands of miles per year and says that the G Meter is pegged at +10 and -10 within just a few miles, even on a smooth highway.
I took a flash lite and laid down just forward of the of the ramp and asked my wife to close the lid and drive the tow car……..Caution, don’t do this unless you have a strong marriage! Pat took the roughest Road she could find and then drove asfast as she dared! After returning home, I waited patiently for the lid to open……………after several minutes I cautiously said “ honey, are you there”? No answer! Pleading with my sweetest manners…………she said not a word for a good ten
Good one Patricia……
JJ
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