On 5/10/2023 12:55 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 10/5/2023 3:05 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/9/2023 10:39 AM, Xeno wrote:Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about
On 9/5/2023 11:34 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/8/2023 11:58 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:Correction, the alternator output is DC. The 6 internal power
1948 Pontiac, 12V battery, one wire alternator (was working when
parked 12 years ago).
No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V.
Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter only
reads 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed an after market
ammeter between the alternator and the battery. Same reading as
ammeter in the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current.
After idle for 12 years maybe residual magnetism is gone. Needs
to be excited. Can't find a YouTube that shows me which
terminals to zap.
All help is appreciated. I can certainly buy a new unit, but
possibly have other problems.
Thank you
If you get 13.8V when the car is running, that means the
alternator is providing output.
The alternator output is AC. You need to use AC ammeter to measure
the AC current output from the alternator.
diodes provide the necessary rectification. The 3 exciter diodes
are meant to excite the field coils and set the generation process
into gear.
Are you sure that's true for 1948 Pontiac?
Maybe that alternator had been modified to use external rectifiers
and regulator.
that for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3
+ve power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there
is only one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to
be on-board.
If the alternator really has DC output, then the car's [DC] ammeter
and external [DC] ammeter should register DC current.
I believe somehow the alternator burnt the internal diodes, and the
owner rewired it as single phase [AC] output and used external [bridge rectifier] after the car's dashboard [DC] ammeter. That means the
dashboard [DC] ammeter has not been working properly ever since
[because it was AC coming from the alternator]. A germanium [bridge rectifier] was used so some reverse current is flowing back into the alternator when the engine is not running but the key is on auxiliary.
That's when and why the dashboard ammeter registers negative.
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be on-board.
On 5/10/2023 9:39 AM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 12:55 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 10/5/2023 3:05 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/9/2023 10:39 AM, Xeno wrote:Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about
On 9/5/2023 11:34 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/8/2023 11:58 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:Correction, the alternator output is DC. The 6 internal power
1948 Pontiac, 12V battery, one wire alternator (was working when >>>>>>> parked 12 years ago).
No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V.
Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter only
reads 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed an after market
ammeter between the alternator and the battery. Same reading as >>>>>>> ammeter in the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current. >>>>>>> After idle for 12 years maybe residual magnetism is gone. Needs
to be excited. Can't find a YouTube that shows me which
terminals to zap.
All help is appreciated. I can certainly buy a new unit, but
possibly have other problems.
Thank you
If you get 13.8V when the car is running, that means the
alternator is providing output.
The alternator output is AC. You need to use AC ammeter to measure >>>>>> the AC current output from the alternator.
diodes provide the necessary rectification. The 3 exciter diodes
are meant to excite the field coils and set the generation process
into gear.
Are you sure that's true for 1948 Pontiac?
Maybe that alternator had been modified to use external rectifiers
and regulator.
that for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3
+ve power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there
is only one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to
be on-board.
If the alternator really has DC output, then the car's [DC] ammeter
and external [DC] ammeter should register DC current.
I believe somehow the alternator burnt the internal diodes, and the
owner rewired it as single phase [AC] output and used external [bridge
rectifier] after the car's dashboard [DC] ammeter. That means the
dashboard [DC] ammeter has not been working properly ever since
[because it was AC coming from the alternator]. A germanium [bridge
rectifier] was used so some reverse current is flowing back into the
alternator when the engine is not running but the key is on auxiliary.
That's when and why the dashboard ammeter registers negative.
I've some made minor corrections in square brackets [ ] above to clarify my points.
I think I have the correct line of thinking.
On 5/11/2023 8:47 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/10/2023 7:33 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 9:39 AM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 12:55 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 10/5/2023 3:05 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/9/2023 10:39 AM, Xeno wrote:Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about
On 9/5/2023 11:34 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/8/2023 11:58 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:Correction, the alternator output is DC. The 6 internal power
1948 Pontiac, 12V battery, one wire alternator (was working
when parked 12 years ago).
No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V. >>>>>>>>> Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter only >>>>>>>>> reads 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed an after market >>>>>>>>> ammeter between the alternator and the battery. Same reading >>>>>>>>> as ammeter in the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current. >>>>>>>>> After idle for 12 years maybe residual magnetism is gone. Needs >>>>>>>>> to be excited. Can't find a YouTube that shows me which
terminals to zap.
All help is appreciated. I can certainly buy a new unit, but >>>>>>>>> possibly have other problems.
Thank you
If you get 13.8V when the car is running, that means the
alternator is providing output.
The alternator output is AC. You need to use AC ammeter to
measure the AC current output from the alternator.
diodes provide the necessary rectification. The 3 exciter diodes >>>>>>> are meant to excite the field coils and set the generation
process into gear.
Are you sure that's true for 1948 Pontiac?
Maybe that alternator had been modified to use external rectifiers >>>>>> and regulator.
that for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means
3 +ve power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If
there is only one output wire, then all *rectification* and control
has to be on-board.
If the alternator really has DC output, then the car's [DC] ammeter
and external [DC] ammeter should register DC current.
I believe somehow the alternator burnt the internal diodes, and the
owner rewired it as single phase [AC] output and used external
[bridge rectifier] after the car's dashboard [DC] ammeter. That
means the dashboard [DC] ammeter has not been working properly ever
since [because it was AC coming from the alternator]. A germanium
[bridge rectifier] was used so some reverse current is flowing back
into the alternator when the engine is not running but the key is on
auxiliary. That's when and why the dashboard ammeter registers
negative.
I've some made minor corrections in square brackets [ ] above to
clarify my points.
I think I have the correct line of thinking.
It must be quite difficult to blow smoke up somebody's ass with your
head so far up your own .
Do you have a better explanation for a DC ammeter not registering any amperage at the alternator other than the alternator is outputting AC?
The OP should try using AC ammeter to confirm that the alternator had
been rewired to output AC, and external germanium bridge rectifier is used.
On 5/10/2023 7:33 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 9:39 AM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 12:55 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 10/5/2023 3:05 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/9/2023 10:39 AM, Xeno wrote:Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about
On 9/5/2023 11:34 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/8/2023 11:58 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:Correction, the alternator output is DC. The 6 internal power
1948 Pontiac, 12V battery, one wire alternator (was working
when parked 12 years ago).
No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V. >>>>>>>> Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter only >>>>>>>> reads 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed an after market >>>>>>>> ammeter between the alternator and the battery. Same reading >>>>>>>> as ammeter in the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current. >>>>>>>> After idle for 12 years maybe residual magnetism is gone. Needs >>>>>>>> to be excited. Can't find a YouTube that shows me which
terminals to zap.
All help is appreciated. I can certainly buy a new unit, but >>>>>>>> possibly have other problems.
Thank you
If you get 13.8V when the car is running, that means the
alternator is providing output.
The alternator output is AC. You need to use AC ammeter to
measure the AC current output from the alternator.
diodes provide the necessary rectification. The 3 exciter diodes
are meant to excite the field coils and set the generation
process into gear.
Are you sure that's true for 1948 Pontiac?
Maybe that alternator had been modified to use external rectifiers
and regulator.
that for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means
3 +ve power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If
there is only one output wire, then all *rectification* and control
has to be on-board.
If the alternator really has DC output, then the car's [DC] ammeter
and external [DC] ammeter should register DC current.
I believe somehow the alternator burnt the internal diodes, and the
owner rewired it as single phase [AC] output and used external
[bridge rectifier] after the car's dashboard [DC] ammeter. That
means the dashboard [DC] ammeter has not been working properly ever
since [because it was AC coming from the alternator]. A germanium
[bridge rectifier] was used so some reverse current is flowing back
into the alternator when the engine is not running but the key is on
auxiliary. That's when and why the dashboard ammeter registers
negative.
I've some made minor corrections in square brackets [ ] above to
clarify my points.
I think I have the correct line of thinking.
It must be quite difficult to blow smoke up somebody's ass with your
head so far up your own .
On 5/11/2023 9:49 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/11/2023 8:47 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/10/2023 7:33 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 9:39 AM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 12:55 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 10/5/2023 3:05 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/9/2023 10:39 AM, Xeno wrote:Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think
On 9/5/2023 11:34 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/8/2023 11:58 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:Correction, the alternator output is DC. The 6 internal power
1948 Pontiac, 12V battery, one wire alternator (was working >>>>>>>>>> when parked 12 years ago).
No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V. >>>>>>>>>> Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter
only reads 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed an after >>>>>>>>>> market ammeter between the alternator and the battery. Same >>>>>>>>>> reading as ammeter in the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current. >>>>>>>>>> After idle for 12 years maybe residual magnetism is gone.
Needs to be excited. Can't find a YouTube that shows me
which terminals to zap.
All help is appreciated. I can certainly buy a new unit, but >>>>>>>>>> possibly have other problems.
Thank you
If you get 13.8V when the car is running, that means the
alternator is providing output.
The alternator output is AC. You need to use AC ammeter to
measure the AC current output from the alternator.
diodes provide the necessary rectification. The 3 exciter
diodes are meant to excite the field coils and set the
generation process into gear.
Are you sure that's true for 1948 Pontiac?
Maybe that alternator had been modified to use external
rectifiers and regulator.
about that for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase.
That means 3 +ve power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter
diodes. If there is only one output wire, then all
*rectification* and control has to be on-board.
If the alternator really has DC output, then the car's [DC]
ammeter and external [DC] ammeter should register DC current.
I believe somehow the alternator burnt the internal diodes, and
the owner rewired it as single phase [AC] output and used external
[bridge rectifier] after the car's dashboard [DC] ammeter. That
means the dashboard [DC] ammeter has not been working properly
ever since [because it was AC coming from the alternator]. A
germanium [bridge rectifier] was used so some reverse current is
flowing back into the alternator when the engine is not running
but the key is on auxiliary. That's when and why the dashboard
ammeter registers negative.
I've some made minor corrections in square brackets [ ] above to >>>> clarify my points.
I think I have the correct line of thinking.
It must be quite difficult to blow smoke up somebody's ass with
your head so far up your own .
Do you have a better explanation for a DC ammeter not registering any
amperage at the alternator other than the alternator is outputting AC?
The OP should try using AC ammeter to confirm that the alternator had
been rewired to output AC, and external germanium bridge rectifier is
used.
The simplest explanation is that the slip ring brush isn't making
the circuit to excite the rotor windings . That alone would explain
the voltage reading 12.8V while running - and slightly higher when
stopped and there is no current draw for stuff like ignition and
instruments .
The next simplest would be that the internal regulator is bad , also resulting in a lack of charging .
On 5/11/2023 11:11 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/11/2023 9:49 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/11/2023 8:47 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/10/2023 7:33 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 9:39 AM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 12:55 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 10/5/2023 3:05 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/9/2023 10:39 AM, Xeno wrote:Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think
On 9/5/2023 11:34 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/8/2023 11:58 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:Correction, the alternator output is DC. The 6 internal power >>>>>>>>> diodes provide the necessary rectification. The 3 exciter
1948 Pontiac, 12V battery, one wire alternator (was working >>>>>>>>>>> when parked 12 years ago).
No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V. >>>>>>>>>>> Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter >>>>>>>>>>> only reads 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed an after >>>>>>>>>>> market ammeter between the alternator and the battery. Same >>>>>>>>>>> reading as ammeter in the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current. >>>>>>>>>>> After idle for 12 years maybe residual magnetism is gone. >>>>>>>>>>> Needs to be excited. Can't find a YouTube that shows me >>>>>>>>>>> which terminals to zap.
All help is appreciated. I can certainly buy a new unit, but >>>>>>>>>>> possibly have other problems.
Thank you
If you get 13.8V when the car is running, that means the
alternator is providing output.
The alternator output is AC. You need to use AC ammeter to >>>>>>>>>> measure the AC current output from the alternator.
diodes are meant to excite the field coils and set the
generation process into gear.
Are you sure that's true for 1948 Pontiac?
Maybe that alternator had been modified to use external
rectifiers and regulator.
about that for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase.
That means 3 +ve power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter
diodes. If there is only one output wire, then all
*rectification* and control has to be on-board.
If the alternator really has DC output, then the car's [DC]
ammeter and external [DC] ammeter should register DC current.
I believe somehow the alternator burnt the internal diodes, and
the owner rewired it as single phase [AC] output and used external >>>>>> [bridge rectifier] after the car's dashboard [DC] ammeter. That
means the dashboard [DC] ammeter has not been working properly
ever since [because it was AC coming from the alternator]. A
germanium [bridge rectifier] was used so some reverse current is
flowing back into the alternator when the engine is not running
but the key is on auxiliary. That's when and why the dashboard
ammeter registers negative.
I've some made minor corrections in square brackets [ ] above to >>>>> clarify my points.
I think I have the correct line of thinking.
It must be quite difficult to blow smoke up somebody's ass with
your head so far up your own .
Do you have a better explanation for a DC ammeter not registering any
amperage at the alternator other than the alternator is outputting AC?
The OP should try using AC ammeter to confirm that the alternator had
been rewired to output AC, and external germanium bridge rectifier is
used.
The simplest explanation is that the slip ring brush isn't making
the circuit to excite the rotor windings . That alone would explain
the voltage reading 12.8V while running - and slightly higher when
stopped and there is no current draw for stuff like ignition and
instruments .
The next simplest would be that the internal regulator is bad , also
resulting in a lack of charging .
Your explanation cannot explain the phenomena the OP had observed:
"No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter only reads 0 or
negative with headlights on. Placed an after market ammeter between the alternator and the battery. Same reading as ammeter in the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current."
Apparently the alternator is charging the battery. My explanation,
albeit convoluted, can explain exactly how it is possible. The previous
owner didn't want to buy a new alternator and used this convoluted way
to get by. The previous owner wired the alternator to output AC, and
used external germanium bridge rectifier to get DC. My thought
experiment can explain all the observed phenomena in this case.
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco 10SI and including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use internal rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to the field coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go bad.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is that they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
But if it is, breaking the connection between the alternator and the
battery and putting an ammeter in there should certainly show some
current. If not... maybe the alternator is not actually connected to
the battery but is going through an open shunt for the meter that isn't working or something like that.
With cars that have been modified like this you don't get a proper wiring diagram so you are going to need the continuity tester to see what is
going where. And yes checking the frame strap is always the first thing
to do (and make sure the frame strap isn't bolted to a solid block of bondo --scott
On 12/5/2023 1:37 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/11/2023 11:11 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/11/2023 9:49 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/11/2023 8:47 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/10/2023 7:33 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 9:39 AM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 12:55 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 10/5/2023 3:05 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/9/2023 10:39 AM, Xeno wrote:Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think
On 9/5/2023 11:34 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/8/2023 11:58 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:Correction, the alternator output is DC. The 6 internal power >>>>>>>>>> diodes provide the necessary rectification. The 3 exciter
1948 Pontiac, 12V battery, one wire alternator (was working >>>>>>>>>>>> when parked 12 years ago).
No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage
12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp >>>>>>>>>>>> meter only reads 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed >>>>>>>>>>>> an after market ammeter between the alternator and the >>>>>>>>>>>> battery. Same reading as ammeter in the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no >>>>>>>>>>>> current.
After idle for 12 years maybe residual magnetism is gone. >>>>>>>>>>>> Needs to be excited. Can't find a YouTube that shows me >>>>>>>>>>>> which terminals to zap.
All help is appreciated. I can certainly buy a new unit, >>>>>>>>>>>> but possibly have other problems.
Thank you
If you get 13.8V when the car is running, that means the >>>>>>>>>>> alternator is providing output.
The alternator output is AC. You need to use AC ammeter to >>>>>>>>>>> measure the AC current output from the alternator.
diodes are meant to excite the field coils and set the
generation process into gear.
Are you sure that's true for 1948 Pontiac?
Maybe that alternator had been modified to use external
rectifiers and regulator.
about that for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase.
That means 3 +ve power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter >>>>>>>> diodes. If there is only one output wire, then all
*rectification* and control has to be on-board.
If the alternator really has DC output, then the car's [DC]
ammeter and external [DC] ammeter should register DC current.
I believe somehow the alternator burnt the internal diodes, and
the owner rewired it as single phase [AC] output and used
external [bridge rectifier] after the car's dashboard [DC]
ammeter. That means the dashboard [DC] ammeter has not been
working properly ever since [because it was AC coming from the
alternator]. A germanium [bridge rectifier] was used so some
reverse current is flowing back into the alternator when the
engine is not running but the key is on auxiliary. That's when
and why the dashboard ammeter registers negative.
I've some made minor corrections in square brackets [ ] above to
clarify my points.
I think I have the correct line of thinking.
It must be quite difficult to blow smoke up somebody's ass with
your head so far up your own .
Do you have a better explanation for a DC ammeter not registering
any amperage at the alternator other than the alternator is
outputting AC?
The OP should try using AC ammeter to confirm that the alternator
had been rewired to output AC, and external germanium bridge
rectifier is used.
The simplest explanation is that the slip ring brush isn't making
the circuit to excite the rotor windings . That alone would explain
the voltage reading 12.8V while running - and slightly higher when
stopped and there is no current draw for stuff like ignition and
instruments .
The next simplest would be that the internal regulator is bad ,
also resulting in a lack of charging .
Your explanation cannot explain the phenomena the OP had observed:
"No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V.
Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter only reads
0 or negative with headlights on. Placed an after market ammeter
between the alternator and the battery. Same reading as ammeter in
the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current."
Apparently the alternator is charging the battery. My explanation,
albeit convoluted, can explain exactly how it is possible. The
previous owner didn't want to buy a new alternator and used this
convoluted way to get by. The previous owner wired the alternator to
output AC, and used external germanium bridge rectifier to get DC. My
thought experiment can explain all the observed phenomena in this case.
Ah, a thought experiment! That explains why you don't get it.
On 5/13/2023 5:33 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 12/5/2023 1:37 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/11/2023 11:11 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/11/2023 9:49 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/11/2023 8:47 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/10/2023 7:33 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 9:39 AM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 12:55 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 10/5/2023 3:05 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/9/2023 10:39 AM, Xeno wrote:Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think >>>>>>>>> about that for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. >>>>>>>>> That means 3 +ve power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter >>>>>>>>> diodes. If there is only one output wire, then all
On 9/5/2023 11:34 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/8/2023 11:58 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:Correction, the alternator output is DC. The 6 internal power >>>>>>>>>>> diodes provide the necessary rectification. The 3 exciter >>>>>>>>>>> diodes are meant to excite the field coils and set the
1948 Pontiac, 12V battery, one wire alternator (was working >>>>>>>>>>>>> when parked 12 years ago).
No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage >>>>>>>>>>>>> 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp >>>>>>>>>>>>> meter only reads 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed >>>>>>>>>>>>> an after market ammeter between the alternator and the >>>>>>>>>>>>> battery. Same reading as ammeter in the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no >>>>>>>>>>>>> current.
After idle for 12 years maybe residual magnetism is gone. >>>>>>>>>>>>> Needs to be excited. Can't find a YouTube that shows me >>>>>>>>>>>>> which terminals to zap.
All help is appreciated. I can certainly buy a new unit, >>>>>>>>>>>>> but possibly have other problems.
Thank you
If you get 13.8V when the car is running, that means the >>>>>>>>>>>> alternator is providing output.
The alternator output is AC. You need to use AC ammeter to >>>>>>>>>>>> measure the AC current output from the alternator.
generation process into gear.
Are you sure that's true for 1948 Pontiac?
Maybe that alternator had been modified to use external
rectifiers and regulator.
*rectification* and control has to be on-board.
If the alternator really has DC output, then the car's [DC]
ammeter and external [DC] ammeter should register DC current.
I believe somehow the alternator burnt the internal diodes, and >>>>>>>> the owner rewired it as single phase [AC] output and used
external [bridge rectifier] after the car's dashboard [DC]
ammeter. That means the dashboard [DC] ammeter has not been
working properly ever since [because it was AC coming from the >>>>>>>> alternator]. A germanium [bridge rectifier] was used so some
reverse current is flowing back into the alternator when the
engine is not running but the key is on auxiliary. That's when >>>>>>>> and why the dashboard ammeter registers negative.
I've some made minor corrections in square brackets [ ] above to >>>>>>> clarify my points.
I think I have the correct line of thinking.
It must be quite difficult to blow smoke up somebody's ass with >>>>>> your head so far up your own .
Do you have a better explanation for a DC ammeter not registering
any amperage at the alternator other than the alternator is
outputting AC?
The OP should try using AC ammeter to confirm that the alternator
had been rewired to output AC, and external germanium bridge
rectifier is used.
The simplest explanation is that the slip ring brush isn't making
the circuit to excite the rotor windings . That alone would explain
the voltage reading 12.8V while running - and slightly higher when
stopped and there is no current draw for stuff like ignition and
instruments .
The next simplest would be that the internal regulator is bad ,
also resulting in a lack of charging .
Your explanation cannot explain the phenomena the OP had observed:
"No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V.
Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter only reads
0 or negative with headlights on. Placed an after market ammeter
between the alternator and the battery. Same reading as ammeter in
the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current."
Apparently the alternator is charging the battery. My explanation,
albeit convoluted, can explain exactly how it is possible. The
previous owner didn't want to buy a new alternator and used this
convoluted way to get by. The previous owner wired the alternator to
output AC, and used external germanium bridge rectifier to get DC. My
thought experiment can explain all the observed phenomena in this case.
Ah, a thought experiment! That explains why you don't get it.
Then how do you explain the alternator can charge the battery with no apparently DC current output?
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about
that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there is only >>>> one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be
on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a series >>> of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco 10SI
and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to the field >>> coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars. I see >>> them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
vibration would damage the regulator - even with its encapsulation. A
separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or firewall and in the
underhood airflow was a much better arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is that they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to understand.
But if it is, breaking the connection between the alternator and the
battery and putting an ammeter in there should certainly show some
current. If not... maybe the alternator is not actually connected to
the battery but is going through an open shunt for the meter that isn't
working or something like that.
With cars that have been modified like this you don't get a proper
wiring
diagram so you are going to need the continuity tester to see what is
going where. And yes checking the frame strap is always the first thing >>> to do (and make sure the frame strap isn't bolted to a solid block of
bondo
--scott
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think
about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there is
only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be
on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a
series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco
10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use internal >>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to the
field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars. I
see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
vibration would damage the regulator - even with its encapsulation.
A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or firewall and in
the underhood airflow was a much better arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current. Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is that
they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to
understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think about
that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be
on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco 10SI
and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
vibration would damage the regulator - even with its encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better arrangement.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is that they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
But if it is, breaking the connection between the alternator and the
battery and putting an ammeter in there should certainly show some
current. If not... maybe the alternator is not actually connected to
the battery but is going through an open shunt for the meter that isn't
working or something like that.
With cars that have been modified like this you don't get a proper
wiring
diagram so you are going to need the continuity tester to see what is
going where. And yes checking the frame strap is always the first thing
to do (and make sure the frame strap isn't bolted to a solid block of
bondo
--scott
On 13/5/2023 8:39 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 5:33 AM, Xeno wrote:I can explain it but the issue is with you understanding it. A WOFTAM.
On 12/5/2023 1:37 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/11/2023 11:11 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/11/2023 9:49 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/11/2023 8:47 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/10/2023 7:33 PM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 9:39 AM, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/10/2023 12:55 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 10/5/2023 3:05 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/9/2023 10:39 AM, Xeno wrote:Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think >>>>>>>>>> about that for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. >>>>>>>>>> That means 3 +ve power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3
On 9/5/2023 11:34 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/8/2023 11:58 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:Correction, the alternator output is DC. The 6 internal >>>>>>>>>>>> power diodes provide the necessary rectification. The 3 >>>>>>>>>>>> exciter diodes are meant to excite the field coils and set >>>>>>>>>>>> the generation process into gear.
1948 Pontiac, 12V battery, one wire alternator (was >>>>>>>>>>>>>> working when parked 12 years ago).
No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage >>>>>>>>>>>>>> 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however >>>>>>>>>>>>>> amp meter only reads 0 or negative with headlights on. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Placed an after market ammeter between the alternator and >>>>>>>>>>>>>> the battery. Same reading as ammeter in the dash. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no >>>>>>>>>>>>>> current.
After idle for 12 years maybe residual magnetism is gone. >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Needs to be excited. Can't find a YouTube that shows me >>>>>>>>>>>>>> which terminals to zap.
All help is appreciated. I can certainly buy a new unit, >>>>>>>>>>>>>> but possibly have other problems.
Thank you
If you get 13.8V when the car is running, that means the >>>>>>>>>>>>> alternator is providing output.
The alternator output is AC. You need to use AC ammeter to >>>>>>>>>>>>> measure the AC current output from the alternator.
Are you sure that's true for 1948 Pontiac?
Maybe that alternator had been modified to use external
rectifiers and regulator.
exciter diodes. If there is only one output wire, then all >>>>>>>>>> *rectification* and control has to be on-board.
If the alternator really has DC output, then the car's [DC]
ammeter and external [DC] ammeter should register DC current. >>>>>>>>>
I believe somehow the alternator burnt the internal diodes,
and the owner rewired it as single phase [AC] output and used >>>>>>>>> external [bridge rectifier] after the car's dashboard [DC]
ammeter. That means the dashboard [DC] ammeter has not been
working properly ever since [because it was AC coming from the >>>>>>>>> alternator]. A germanium [bridge rectifier] was used so some >>>>>>>>> reverse current is flowing back into the alternator when the >>>>>>>>> engine is not running but the key is on auxiliary. That's when >>>>>>>>> and why the dashboard ammeter registers negative.
I've some made minor corrections in square brackets [ ] above
to clarify my points.
I think I have the correct line of thinking.
It must be quite difficult to blow smoke up somebody's ass
with your head so far up your own .
Do you have a better explanation for a DC ammeter not registering
any amperage at the alternator other than the alternator is
outputting AC?
The OP should try using AC ammeter to confirm that the alternator
had been rewired to output AC, and external germanium bridge
rectifier is used.
The simplest explanation is that the slip ring brush isn't
making the circuit to excite the rotor windings . That alone would
explain the voltage reading 12.8V while running - and slightly
higher when stopped and there is no current draw for stuff like
ignition and instruments .
The next simplest would be that the internal regulator is bad ,
also resulting in a lack of charging .
Your explanation cannot explain the phenomena the OP had observed:
"No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm. Battery voltage 12.6V.
Battery voltage with car running 13.8V, however amp meter only
reads 0 or negative with headlights on. Placed an after market
ammeter between the alternator and the battery. Same reading as
ammeter in the dash.
How could this be? Alternator supplies voltage but no current."
Apparently the alternator is charging the battery. My explanation,
albeit convoluted, can explain exactly how it is possible. The
previous owner didn't want to buy a new alternator and used this
convoluted way to get by. The previous owner wired the alternator
to output AC, and used external germanium bridge rectifier to get
DC. My thought experiment can explain all the observed phenomena in
this case.
Ah, a thought experiment! That explains why you don't get it.
Then how do you explain the alternator can charge the battery with no
apparently DC current output?
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think
about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve >>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there is >>>>>> only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be
on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a
series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco
10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use internal >>>>> rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to the
field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars. I >>>>> see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a >>>>> modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go bad. >>>>
vibration would damage the regulator - even with its encapsulation.
A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or firewall and in
the underhood airflow was a much better arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current. Voltage is
*pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is that
they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external mechanical >>>>> voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to
understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can charge
the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
I don't think you can think. Pity.
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think
about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve >>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there
is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be
on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a
series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco
10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use
internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to
the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars. >>>>>> I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a >>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go
bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or
firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better arrangement. >>>>>
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current. Voltage
is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is
that they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external
mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to
understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP
says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can
charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current with a
load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
output. I'd also give it a big rev
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and vibration
would damage the regulator - even with its encapsulation. A separate >regulator mounted on the inner guard or firewall and in the underhood
airflow was a much better arrangement.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is that they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP says >there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can charge
the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think
about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve >>>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there >>>>>>>> is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be >>>>>>>> on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a >>>>>>> series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco >>>>>>> 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use
internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to
the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars. >>>>>>> I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a >>>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go >>>>>>> bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or
firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better arrangement. >>>>>>
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current. Voltage
is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is
that they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external
mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to
understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP
says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can
charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter to
the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it won't be
able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance and
continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current with a
load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't you read?
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question and
you will realize that you are stupid.
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think >>>>>>>>> about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means 3 +ve >>>>>>>>> power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If there >>>>>>>>> is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to be >>>>>>>>> on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about a >>>>>>>> series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the Delco >>>>>>>> 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use >>>>>>>> internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to >>>>>>>> the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older cars. >>>>>>>> I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion to a >>>>>>>> modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator go >>>>>>>> bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard or >>>>>>> firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better arrangement. >>>>>>>
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current. Voltage
is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is
that they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external
mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded to >>>>>> understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP
says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can
charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter to
the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it won't be
able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the battery won't have
enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance and
continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current with a
load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't you read? >>
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question and
you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
The op never said what kind of ammeter or voltmeter.
A $10 ammeter would likely not show milliamps.
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think >>>>>>>>> about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means >>>>>>>>> 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If
there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to >>>>>>>>> be on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about >>>>>>>> a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the
Delco 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use >>>>>>>> internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to >>>>>>>> the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older
cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion >>>>>>>> to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator
go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard
or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better
arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is
that they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external
mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded
to understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP
says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can
charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter
to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it won't
be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the battery
won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance
and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current with
a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't you
read?
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question and
you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
The op never said what kind of ammeter or voltmeter.
A $10 ammeter would likely not show milliamps.
On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think >>>>>>>>>> about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means >>>>>>>>>> 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If
there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to >>>>>>>>>> be on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about >>>>>>>>> a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the
Delco 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use >>>>>>>>> internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to >>>>>>>>> the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older
cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion >>>>>>>>> to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator >>>>>>>>> go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard >>>>>>>> or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better
arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is >>>>>>>>> that they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external
mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded >>>>>>> to understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP
says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can
charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter
to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it won't
be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the battery
won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance
and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current with
a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't you
read?
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question and
you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
Then find your reading glasses and read again.
Battery voltage 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V
The op never said what kind of ammeter or voltmeter.
The OP said the external ammeter corroborates with the car's dashboard ammeter. Can't you read?
A $10 ammeter would likely not show milliamps.
NO car ammeter deals with milliamp. Do you have a brain?
On 14/5/2023 11:49 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:This is what the OP actually said;
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it?
Think about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That
means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If >>>>>>>>>>> there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to >>>>>>>>>>> be on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking
about a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the >>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use >>>>>>>>>> internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses >>>>>>>>>> to the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older >>>>>>>>>> cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a
conversion to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator >>>>>>>>>> go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and >>>>>>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard >>>>>>>>> or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better
arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read? >>>>>>>
Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
I have already provided full explanation. You are tooMind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is >>>>>>>>>> that theyNot enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what. >>>>>>>>
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external >>>>>>>>>> mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected. >>>>>>>>>
boneheaded to understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze
this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why
the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator
but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running. >>>>>>
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter
to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it
won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the
battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no
brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance
and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current
with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't
you read?
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question
and you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
Then find your reading glasses and read again.
Battery voltage 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V
A battery at 12.6V is *not* a battery that has just been charged.
Typically a battery that has just come off charge will have a voltage *higher* than 12.6V because of surface charge. Once that surface
charge has has dissipated, a *good* battery should remain at ~12.6V.
If the engine is running, you will *not* be reading *battery voltage*.
You will be reading *system voltage* which, typically, should be
between 13.8V-14.2V. IOW, what you are seeing is the alternator output voltage. FWIW, cars do not run 12 volt electrical systems. They
actually run 14 volt systems. The battery is, in general, a load for
the electrical system and provides a means of starting the engine.
On 14/5/2023 9:29 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/14/2023 5:53 AM, Xeno wrote:Promise
On 14/5/2023 11:49 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:This is what the OP actually said;
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? >>>>>>>>>>>>> Think about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That >>>>>>>>>>>>> means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If >>>>>>>>>>>>> there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has >>>>>>>>>>>>> to be on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking >>>>>>>>>>>> about a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the >>>>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators >>>>>>>>>>>> use internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses >>>>>>>>>>>> to the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older >>>>>>>>>>>> cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a
conversion to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the
alternator go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat >>>>>>>>>>> and vibration would damage the regulator - even with its >>>>>>>>>>> encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner >>>>>>>>>>> guard or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much >>>>>>>>>>> better arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read? >>>>>>>>>
Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
I have already provided full explanation. You are tooMind you it is possible that the original poster's problem >>>>>>>>>>>> is that theyNot enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what. >>>>>>>>>>
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external >>>>>>>>>>>> mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected. >>>>>>>>>>>
boneheaded to understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze >>>>>>>> this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question
why the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the
alternator but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the
engine is running.
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC]
ammeter to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current,
then it won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next
time the battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do
you have no brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for
resistance and continuity before I condemn the regulator.
Testing current with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual
practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and
generator output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't
you read?
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question
and you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
Then find your reading glasses and read again.
Battery voltage 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V
A battery at 12.6V is *not* a battery that has just been charged.
Typically a battery that has just come off charge will have a
voltage *higher* than 12.6V because of surface charge. Once that
surface charge has has dissipated, a *good* battery should remain at
~12.6V.
If the engine is running, you will *not* be reading *battery
voltage*. You will be reading *system voltage* which, typically,
should be between 13.8V-14.2V. IOW, what you are seeing is the
alternator output voltage. FWIW, cars do not run 12 volt electrical
systems. They actually run 14 volt systems. The battery is, in
general, a load for the electrical system and provides a means of
starting the engine.
Apparently I am conversing with a dumb arse. I have to keep repeating
myself and you still cannot think outside the box.
If it is simple then the OP wouldn't be confounded and have to post
here to find answers. Somebody had done something to the alternator
that he did know.
The OP definitely said there is no apparent current from the
alternator, but the battery voltages act normal like a battery
voltages in a normal car would.
The only way to explain it, is that the alternator was modified to
output AC, and a germanium bridge rectifier was used external to the
alternator.
My explanation can explain all the abnormal phenomena like no DC
current from the alternator detected by the ammeter, and reverse DC
current detected when the engine is not running but the car key is on.
I am sick and tired of repeating myself to a dumb arse who cannot
think outside the box. You should read the OP's first post carefully
and read my replies to his post carefully.
Goodbye and please don't reply again.
On 5/14/2023 5:53 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 14/5/2023 11:49 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:This is what the OP actually said;
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? >>>>>>>>>>>> Think about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That >>>>>>>>>>>> means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If >>>>>>>>>>>> there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to >>>>>>>>>>>> be on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking >>>>>>>>>>> about a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the >>>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use >>>>>>>>>>> internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses >>>>>>>>>>> to the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older >>>>>>>>>>> cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a
conversion to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator >>>>>>>>>>> go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and >>>>>>>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard >>>>>>>>>> or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better >>>>>>>>>> arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read? >>>>>>>>
Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
I have already provided full explanation. You are tooMind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is >>>>>>>>>>> that theyNot enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what. >>>>>>>>>
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external >>>>>>>>>>> mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected. >>>>>>>>>>
boneheaded to understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze
this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why >>>>>>> the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator
but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running. >>>>>>>
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter
to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it
won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the
battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no
brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance
and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current
with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator >>>>>> output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't
you read?
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question
and you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
Then find your reading glasses and read again.
Battery voltage 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V
A battery at 12.6V is *not* a battery that has just been charged.
Typically a battery that has just come off charge will have a voltage
*higher* than 12.6V because of surface charge. Once that surface
charge has has dissipated, a *good* battery should remain at ~12.6V.
If the engine is running, you will *not* be reading *battery voltage*.
You will be reading *system voltage* which, typically, should be
between 13.8V-14.2V. IOW, what you are seeing is the alternator output
voltage. FWIW, cars do not run 12 volt electrical systems. They
actually run 14 volt systems. The battery is, in general, a load for
the electrical system and provides a means of starting the engine.
Apparently I am conversing with a dumb arse. I have to keep repeating
myself and you still cannot think outside the box.
If it is simple then the OP wouldn't be confounded and have to post here
to find answers. Somebody had done something to the alternator that he
did know.
The OP definitely said there is no apparent current from the alternator,
but the battery voltages act normal like a battery voltages in a normal
car would.
The only way to explain it, is that the alternator was modified to
output AC, and a germanium bridge rectifier was used external to the alternator.
My explanation can explain all the abnormal phenomena like no DC current
from the alternator detected by the ammeter, and reverse DC current
detected when the engine is not running but the car key is on.
I am sick and tired of repeating myself to a dumb arse who cannot think outside the box. You should read the OP's first post carefully and read
my replies to his post carefully.
Goodbye and please don't reply again.
On 5/14/2023 8:18 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 14/5/2023 9:29 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/14/2023 5:53 AM, Xeno wrote:Promise
On 14/5/2023 11:49 am, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:This is what the OP actually said;
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current. >>>>>>>>>> Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Think about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That >>>>>>>>>>>>>> means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If >>>>>>>>>>>>>> there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has >>>>>>>>>>>>>> to be on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking >>>>>>>>>>>>> about a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the >>>>>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators >>>>>>>>>>>>> use internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses >>>>>>>>>>>>> to the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older >>>>>>>>>>>>> cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a >>>>>>>>>>>>> conversion to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the
alternator go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat >>>>>>>>>>>> and vibration would damage the regulator - even with its >>>>>>>>>>>> encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner >>>>>>>>>>>> guard or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much >>>>>>>>>>>> better arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read? >>>>>>>>>>
I have already provided full explanation. You are tooMind you it is possible that the original poster's problem >>>>>>>>>>>>> is that theyNot enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what. >>>>>>>>>>>
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external >>>>>>>>>>>>> mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected. >>>>>>>>>>>>
boneheaded to understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze >>>>>>>>> this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question >>>>>>>>> why the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the
alternator but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the
engine is running.
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC]
ammeter to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current,
then it won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next
time the battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do
you have no brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for
resistance and continuity before I condemn the regulator.
Testing current with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual
practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the >>>>>>> alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and
generator output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't >>>>>>> you read?
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question >>>>>>> and you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
Then find your reading glasses and read again.
Battery voltage 12.6V. Battery voltage with car running 13.8V
A battery at 12.6V is *not* a battery that has just been charged.
Typically a battery that has just come off charge will have a
voltage *higher* than 12.6V because of surface charge. Once that
surface charge has has dissipated, a *good* battery should remain at
~12.6V.
If the engine is running, you will *not* be reading *battery
voltage*. You will be reading *system voltage* which, typically,
should be between 13.8V-14.2V. IOW, what you are seeing is the
alternator output voltage. FWIW, cars do not run 12 volt electrical
systems. They actually run 14 volt systems. The battery is, in
general, a load for the electrical system and provides a means of
starting the engine.
Apparently I am conversing with a dumb arse. I have to keep repeating
myself and you still cannot think outside the box.
If it is simple then the OP wouldn't be confounded and have to post
here to find answers. Somebody had done something to the alternator
that he did know.
The OP definitely said there is no apparent current from the
alternator, but the battery voltages act normal like a battery
voltages in a normal car would.
The only way to explain it, is that the alternator was modified to
output AC, and a germanium bridge rectifier was used external to the
alternator.
My explanation can explain all the abnormal phenomena like no DC
current from the alternator detected by the ammeter, and reverse DC
current detected when the engine is not running but the car key is on.
I am sick and tired of repeating myself to a dumb arse who cannot
think outside the box. You should read the OP's first post carefully
and read my replies to his post carefully.
Goodbye and please don't reply again.
Good. And stay stupid.
On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? Think >>>>>>>>>> about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That means >>>>>>>>>> 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If
there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to >>>>>>>>>> be on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking about >>>>>>>>> a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the
Delco 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use >>>>>>>>> internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses to >>>>>>>>> the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older
cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a conversion >>>>>>>>> to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator >>>>>>>>> go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and
vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard >>>>>>>> or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better
arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read?
The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
Mind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is >>>>>>>>> that they
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external
mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected.
Not enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what.
I have already provided full explanation. You are too boneheaded >>>>>>> to understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze this
abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why the OP
says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator but it can
charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running.
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter
to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it won't
be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the battery
won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance
and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current with
a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't you
read?
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question and
you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
Then find your reading glasses and read again.
The op never said what kind of ammeter or voltmeter.
The OP said the external ammeter corroborates with the car's dashboard ammeter. Can't you read?
A $10 ammeter would likely not show milliamps.
NO car ammeter deals with milliamp. Do you have a brain?
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it?
Think about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That
means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If >>>>>>>>>>> there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to >>>>>>>>>>> be on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking
about a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the >>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use >>>>>>>>>> internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses >>>>>>>>>> to the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older >>>>>>>>>> cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a
conversion to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator >>>>>>>>>> go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and >>>>>>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard >>>>>>>>> or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better
arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read? >>>>>>>
Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
I have already provided full explanation. You are tooMind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is >>>>>>>>>> that theyNot enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what. >>>>>>>>
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external >>>>>>>>>> mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected. >>>>>>>>>
boneheaded to understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze
this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why
the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator
but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running. >>>>>>
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter
to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it
won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the
battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no
brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance
and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current
with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator
output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't
you read?
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question
and you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
Then find your reading glasses and read again.
The op never said what kind of ammeter or voltmeter.
The OP said the external ammeter corroborates with the car's
dashboard ammeter. Can't you read?
A $10 ammeter would likely not show milliamps.
NO car ammeter deals with milliamp. Do you have a brain?
You obviously have no knowledge of basic electricity or electronics
and are just a troll.
By the way, there are no germanium power rectifiers.
On 5/14/2023 9:42 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 5:51 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 9:05 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 10:11 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:45 AM, Xeno wrote:
On 13/5/2023 9:24 pm, 😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅ wrote:
On 5/13/2023 7:09 AM, Xeno wrote:The voltage can get to 13.8 *without* pumping much current.
On 12/5/2023 2:08 am, Scott Dorsey wrote:
Xeno <[email protected]> wrote:
Then it wouldn't be a single wire alternator, would it? >>>>>>>>>>>> Think about that
for a moment. Alternators are, typically, 3 phase. That >>>>>>>>>>>> means 3 +ve
power diodes, 3 -ve power diodes and 3 exciter diodes. If >>>>>>>>>>>> there is only
one output wire, then all *rectification* and control has to >>>>>>>>>>>> be on-board.
When someone says "GM 1-wire alternator" they are talking >>>>>>>>>>> about a series
of alternators introduced in 1970 or so, starting with the >>>>>>>>>>> Delco 10SI and
including some more modern follow-ons. These alternators use >>>>>>>>>>> internal
rectification and regulation (really just regulating pulses >>>>>>>>>>> to the field
coil) and are very, very foolproof.
Because of this they are frequently retrofitted into older >>>>>>>>>>> cars. I see
them on all sorts of older British cars as part of a
conversion to a
modern 12V electrical system.
There isn't much to go wrong other than having the alternator >>>>>>>>>>> go bad.
What used to happen to them back in the 70s was that heat and >>>>>>>>>> vibration would damage the regulator - even with its
encapsulation. A separate regulator mounted on the inner guard >>>>>>>>>> or firewall and in the underhood airflow was a much better >>>>>>>>>> arrangement.
The OP said it can charge the battery to 13.8V, can't you read? >>>>>>>>
Voltage is *pressure* whereas *current is flow*.
I have already provided full explanation. You are tooMind you it is possible that the original poster's problem is >>>>>>>>>>> that theyNot enough detail in the OPs post to really know what's what. >>>>>>>>>
have a three-wire alernator or an alternator with external >>>>>>>>>>> mechanical
voltage regulator and none of the other wiring is connected. >>>>>>>>>>
boneheaded to understand.
You have provided proof that you haven't a clue.
You don't have the education or practical knowledge to analyze
this abnormal situation. You still cannot answer the question why >>>>>>> the OP says there is no apparent DC current from the alternator
but it can charge the battery to 13.8V when the engine is running. >>>>>>>
I don't think you can think. Pity.
It has already been mentioned. It's either high resistance
If it has high resistance, and connecting after market [DC] ammeter
to the alternator registers cannot detect [DC] current, then it
won't be able to charge the battery to 13.8V and next time the
battery won't have enough juice to crank the motor. Do you have no
brain?
or a faulty regulator. I'd be checking connections for resistance
and continuity before I condemn the regulator. Testing current
with a load, ie. headlights on, is the usual practice.
The OP already said there is no detectable [DC] current from the
alternative when the headlights are on. Can't you read?
I used to use a large dummy load, to test alternator and generator >>>>>> output. I'd also give it a big rev
The OP already said "No amperage reading even at 2000 rpm". Can't
you read?
Remainder of your bullshit snipped. Just answer to above question
and you will realize that you are stupid.
The op never said that the alt would charge the batt to 13.8v.
Then find your reading glasses and read again.
The op never said what kind of ammeter or voltmeter.
The OP said the external ammeter corroborates with the car's
dashboard ammeter. Can't you read?
A $10 ammeter would likely not show milliamps.
NO car ammeter deals with milliamp. Do you have a brain?
You obviously have no knowledge of basic electricity or electronics
and are just a troll.
By the way, there are no germanium power rectifiers.
Before silicon there were only germanium rectifiers. It was an old car
so most likely the person who modified the car used germanium bridge rectifier. A germanium rectifier has lower forward voltage, so in high current application germanium rectifier will consume less power and
generate less heat. That makes it more likely to be used in cars because
of the high current and low 12V battery. Germanium rectifier has higher reverse leakage current than silicon rectifiers. In this case it
explains perfectly why the OP says the ammeter has negative current flow
when the engine is not running but the key is on.
Apparently you have no imagination to diagnose abnormal situation like
but the battery behaves like normal with a rest voltage and a running voltage. And there is reverse [DC] current when the car is not running
but the key is on. >
The reverse current is the current from the battery leaking through the germanium bridge rectifier back into the alternator coil.
As I have explained in detail in my previous posts in this thread, long
time ago somebody did not fix the alternator problem, and simply used
the AC from the alternator to connect to a germanium bridge rectifier
hidden somewhere inside the dashboard.
By the way, my education background is electrical engineering in
university.
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