• Can somone explain WHY positive first when jumping a car battery?

    From mike@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 09:05:29 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    When I looked up how to jump a car battery, they tell you WHAT to do, but
    not WHY, which is infuriating as it's harder to remember unless you know
    why.

    https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/

    First they say the cars shouldn't touch.
    Why?

    Then they said positive first.
    Why?

    Once started, they say remove the negative cable first.
    Why?


    Here, they say adding water damages the batteries. Why? https://www.uetechnologies.com/add-water-to-battery-before-or-after-charging/

    And how often do you need to add water?
    This says to add water after every ten charging cycles?
    Isn't that like every ten days?

    And how do you know how much to add?
    They say add water to the "splash plate" but what is that?

    They say the six chambers produce 2.1 volts each for 12.6 volts?
    Isn't it more than that?

    They say adding water before charging will make it overflow.
    Does it really change the water level that much from dead to charged?

    And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?

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  • From Clifford Heath@21:1/5 to mike on Wed Jan 18 15:10:44 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 18/01/23 14:35, mike wrote:
    When I looked up how to jump a car battery, they tell you WHAT to do, but
    not WHY, which is infuriating as it's harder to remember unless you know
    why.
    First they say the cars shouldn't touch.
    Why?

    Then they said positive first.
    Why?

    Once started, they say remove the negative cable first.
    Why?

    These three questions only need one answer.

    In case there is any hydrogen gas that has developed in the battery and
    may be still concentrated enough to burn, any spark from completing the
    circuit should be made at some distance from the battery. That is, but connecting the earth to some metal part of the chassis, not to the
    battery terminal itself.

    The chassis is (usually) negative, which is why that is the first and
    last contact point.

    And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?

    If there is any ionic content in your tap water, it is likely to
    precipitate as conductive salts in the bottom of your battery,
    increasing the self-discharge rate. Here in Sydney, our water is clean
    enough not to need to bother - any effect on battery life is negligible.

    CH

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  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to mike on Tue Jan 17 23:34:03 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    mike wrote on 1/17/2023 10:35 PM:
    When I looked up how to jump a car battery, they tell you WHAT to do, but
    not WHY, which is infuriating as it's harder to remember unless you know
    why.

    https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/


    First they say the cars shouldn't touch.
    Why?


    The metal body of a car is connected to the negative terminal of the car battery. In the old days the bumper was chrome-plated steel, but today
    most bumper are covered with polymer so the metal part of the two cars
    won't touch anyway.

    Then they said positive first.
    Why?



    The metal frame of the car is permanently connected to the negative
    terminal of the car battery. If you connect the black negative jump
    cable first, then when you try to connected the red positive jump cable
    you can accidentally drop the big clip into the engine compartment and
    cause a fire or battery explosion.

    Once started, they say remove the negative cable first.
    Why?


    Here, they say adding water damages the batteries. Why? https://www.uetechnologies.com/add-water-to-battery-before-or-after-charging/



    The electrolyte in a lead-acid car battery is sulfuric acid. Normally
    the battery and the sulfuric acid are separate before the battery is
    ready for installation. The technician dilutes the pure sulfuric acid
    with de-ionized water to the proper strength to be used to fill the
    lead-acid battery.

    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water. If you use tap water,
    then the minerals and ions in the tap water will be conductive and your
    car battery will self-discharge internally rather than holding the
    charge for a long time. You can easily prove that tap water is quite a
    good conductor of electricity by dipping your multimeter test leads into
    a cup of tap water.

    You can normally get de-ionized water from some auto-parts or hardware
    store.

    If you cannot get de-ionized, then distilled water will suffice.

    https://www.amazon.com/MAXTITE-Type-Deionized-Water-Laboratory/dp/B08RJVJSFB


    And how often do you need to add water?
    This says to add water after every ten charging cycles?
    Isn't that like every ten days?


    When you charge the car battery too fast or overcharge the battery, the
    H2O in the electrolyte will separate into H and O2. That's why there is
    an air vent to let the hydrogen and oxygen out so that it will not
    explode. You can fill the depleted H2O with de-ionized water to the same
    level when you got the battery. It is not exact science. A little more
    or a little less won't make much difference in the concentration of the sulfuric acid inside.

    And how do you know how much to add?
    They say add water to the "splash plate" but what is that?

    They say the six chambers produce 2.1 volts each for 12.6 volts?
    Isn't it more than that?


    When your car is running, the battery is being charged so the terminal
    voltage is higher than the theoretical nominal voltage of a lead-acid
    battery. If you really want to check the nominal voltage of your car
    battery, then open the hood to check the terminal voltage with a
    multimeter after the car has not been used for a day.



    They say adding water before charging will make it overflow.
    Does it really change the water level that much from dead to charged?

    And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?

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  • From Ed Pawlowski@21:1/5 to mike on Tue Jan 17 23:25:15 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 1/17/2023 10:35 PM, mike wrote:
    When I looked up how to jump a car battery, they tell you WHAT to do, but
    not WHY, which is infuriating as it's harder to remember unless you know
    why.

    https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/

    First they say the cars shouldn't touch.
    Why?

    Then they said positive first.
    Why?

    Once started, they say remove the negative cable first.
    Why?


    Less potential for arcing. If the negative goes on first and you are
    touching the car and positive cable you can be a conductor.



    Here, they say adding water damages the batteries. Why? https://www.uetechnologies.com/add-water-to-battery-before-or-after-charging/

    And how often do you need to add water?
    This says to add water after every ten charging cycles?
    Isn't that like every ten days?

    Last time I had a battery that was not sealed was probably 30 years ago.
    Tap water can have chemicals.

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  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 16:00:39 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 15:10:44 +1100, Clifford Heath <[email protected]>
    wrote:

    On 18/01/23 14:35, mike wrote:
    When I looked up how to jump a car battery, they tell you WHAT to do,
    but
    not WHY, which is infuriating as it's harder to remember unless you know
    why.
    First they say the cars shouldn't touch.
    Why?
    Then they said positive first.
    Why?
    Once started, they say remove the negative cable first.
    Why?

    These three questions only need one answer.

    In case there is any hydrogen gas that has developed in the battery and
    may be still concentrated enough to burn,

    Don't buy that for two reasons. Firstly most cars and trucks
    have the battery in the engine compartment and just opening
    the hood/bonnet to get to the battery will ensure that any
    hydrogen under the hood will be long gone by the time you
    use the jumper leads. Secondly you will always get a spark
    when connecting the last one anyway.

    Presumably the 'logic' for connecting the negative lead to the
    body of the car with the dead battery is that the spark will be
    further away from the battery, but as I say, it is a pretty dubious
    proposition that there will be any hydrogen still around.

    A few cars do have the battery in the passenger comparment or
    the trunk/boot, so many that instruction is to cover that situation.

    any spark from completing the circuit should be made at some distance
    from the battery. That is, but connecting the earth to some metal part
    of the chassis, not to the battery terminal itself.

    The chassis is (usually) negative, which is why that is the first and
    last contact point.

    And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?

    If there is any ionic content in your tap water, it is likely to
    precipitate as conductive salts in the bottom of your battery,
    increasing the self-discharge rate. Here in Sydney, our water is clean
    enough not to need to bother - any effect on battery life is negligible.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From T@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jan 17 20:39:24 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    T24gMS8xNy8yMyAyMDozNCwgTWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXinIUgd3JvdGU6DQo+IFRoZSBt ZXRhbCBmcmFtZSBvZiB0aGUgY2FyIGlzIHBlcm1hbmVudGx5IGNvbm5lY3RlZCB0byB0aGUg bmVnYXRpdmUgDQo+IHRlcm1pbmFsIG9mIHRoZSBjYXIgYmF0dGVyeS4gSWYgeW91IGNvbm5l Y3QgdGhlIGJsYWNrIG5lZ2F0aXZlIGp1bXAgDQo+IGNhYmxlIGZpcnN0LCB0aGVuIHdoZW4g eW91IHRyeSB0byBjb25uZWN0ZWQgdGhlIHJlZCBwb3NpdGl2ZSBqdW1wIGNhYmxlIA0KPiB5 b3UgY2FuIGFjY2lkZW50YWxseSBkcm9wIHRoZSBiaWcgY2xpcCBpbnRvIHRoZSBlbmdpbmUg Y29tcGFydG1lbnQgYW5kIA0KPiBjYXVzZcKgYcKgZmlyZcKgb3LCoGJhdHRlcnnCoGV4cGxv c2lvbi4NCg0KRXhjZWxsZW50IGV4cGxhbmF0aW9uIQ0KDQpJIGFsd2F5cyBkaWQgcG9zaXRp dmUgZmlyc3QuICAgSSB3aWxsIHN3aXRjaCENCg==

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  • From J. P. Gilliver (John)@21:1/5 to mike on Wed Jan 18 05:11:42 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 at 03:35:29, mike <[email protected]d> wrote: (my responses usually follow points raised):
    And how do you know how much to add?
    They say add water to the "splash plate" but what is that?

    I have no idea what a splash plate is, but most of the fill tubes are about
    an inch long in each cell and they're slotted to make a meniscus for you.

    Here's an explanation of that meniscus but I wish it had a photo of it. https://www.wikihow.com/Check-Car-Battery-Water-Levels

    Anyone here have a good photo of the slotted meniscus eye shape for him?

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  • From mike@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Wed Jan 18 10:03:32 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 18-01-2023 09:40 Clifford Heath <[email protected]> wrote:

    In case there is any hydrogen gas that has developed in the battery and
    may be still concentrated enough to burn, any spark from completing the circuit should be made at some distance from the battery. That is, but connecting the earth to some metal part of the chassis, not to the
    battery terminal itself.

    Thank you for trying to explain why they said here to connect + first. https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/

    Isn't there a spark no matter what cable is the last point to be connected?

    The chassis is (usually) negative, which is why that is the first and
    last contact point.

    I'm not disputing that since I'm the one asking the question, but didn't
    that article above say the opposite?

    They said to connect a negative cable last to the chassis of the dead car.

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to mike on Wed Jan 18 06:20:37 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 10:03:32 +0530, mike wrote:


    I'm not disputing that since I'm the one asking the question, but didn't
    that article above say the opposite?
    They said to connect a negative cable last to the chassis of the dead
    car.


    If you connect the negative first and inadvertently touch any grounded
    surface you'll get a spark. That's also the reason for not having the cars touching although that advice is seriously out of date. Plastic to plastic contact isn't a problem. The majority of the vehicles any more don't have
    steel bumpers.

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 06:28:37 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Tue, 17 Jan 2023 20:39:24 -0800, T wrote:

    On 1/17/23 20:34, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
    The metal frame of the car is permanently connected to the negative
    terminal of the car battery. If you connect the black negative jump
    cable first, then when you try to connected the red positive jump cable
    you can accidentally drop the big clip into the engine compartment and
    cause a fire or battery explosion.

    Excellent explanation!

    I always did positive first. I will switch!

    It's a little different situation but the battery on a Harley Sportster is
    a pain in the butt. The easiest way to get the positive terminal screw tightened is to come in across the engine with a long screwdriver, then
    snug it down with a 10mm. If you do the negative first you're probably
    going to have some fireworks.

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to Ed Pawlowski on Wed Jan 18 06:23:44 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Tue, 17 Jan 2023 23:25:15 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:


    Last time I had a battery that was not sealed was probably 30 years ago.
    Tap water can have chemicals.

    The pickup battery isn't sealed, but the bike batteries and the Toyota's
    are.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Peeler@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 10:08:21 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 18 Jan 2023 06:23:44 GMT, lowbrowwoman, the endlessly driveling, troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:


    The pickup battery isn't sealed

    If there'd only be a way to seal your mouth for good, bigmouth!

    --
    Gossiping "lowbrowwoman" about herself:
    "Usenet is my blog... I don't give a damn if anyone ever reads my posts
    but they are useful in marshaling [sic] my thoughts."
    MID: <[email protected]>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Carlos E.R.@21:1/5 to mike on Wed Jan 18 11:39:09 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 2023-01-18 04:35, mike wrote:
    When I looked up how to jump a car battery, they tell you WHAT to do, but
    not WHY, which is infuriating as it's harder to remember unless you know
    why.

    https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/

    First they say the cars shouldn't touch.
    Why?

    Then they said positive first.
    Why?

    Because of the danger of touching metal with the positive lead when the
    two negatives are connected.

    This assumes the car has negative ground, although a positive ground is
    very rare in cars nowdays.


    Once started, they say remove the negative cable first.
    Why?

    Same reason.



    Here, they say adding water damages the batteries. Why? https://www.uetechnologies.com/add-water-to-battery-before-or-after-charging/

    I don't know about damaging, but you dilute the existing liquid, will
    not have the proper proportions when you start charging immediately.
    Better wait.

    However, if the plates are partially out of the liquid, don't attempt to charge, fill first. The battery may be dead in any case, though.


    Also, read about bubbles below.



    And how often do you need to add water?

    You find that from observation of how fast the level goes down.

    This says to add water after every ten charging cycles?
    Isn't that like every ten days?

    And how do you know how much to add?

    There is typically "something" to show you the level.

    They say add water to the "splash plate" but what is that?

    As you add water, the level touches the rim of a "tube" and the
    reflection of the light in the water surface suddenly changes shape.
    Stop there.


    They say the six chambers produce 2.1 volts each for 12.6 volts?
    Isn't it more than that?

    Depends on charge level.


    They say adding water before charging will make it overflow.
    Does it really change the water level that much from dead to charged?

    Gas bubbles form inside when charging. If you do fast charging, they can
    be big. Those bubbles inside the liquid make its volume bigger, and it
    may overflow. A car battery is designed considering that the vibrations
    of the motor will release the bubbles fast, before they become big. A
    battery designed to be on a room has more space between plates so that
    the bubbles release easier without vibrations.

    So, if the level is too low (close to the plates) add some water, but
    not the maximum.


    And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?

    Damage.

    In chemistry, you only use distilled water, for every reaction. You do
    not want extra chemicals.

    --
    Cheers, Carlos.

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  • From Carlos E.R.@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 11:19:50 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.

    The reverse.

    --
    Cheers, Carlos.

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  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Carlos E.R. on Wed Jan 18 07:09:56 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.

    The reverse.


    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to understanding
    them:

        Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

        Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

        Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water does not.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From micky@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Wed Jan 18 07:10:19 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 09:05:29 +0530, mike <[email protected]d> wrote:

    When I looked up how to jump a car battery, they tell you WHAT to do, but
    not WHY, which is infuriating as it's harder to remember unless you know
    why.

    https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/

    First they say the cars shouldn't touch.
    Why?

    IIRC when cars had metal bumpers and people didn't have such good jumper cables, they would touch the bumpers together in place of the negative
    cable. And then maybe it could leave damage on the chrome from
    sparking. ??? Now all the bumpers are covered in plastic or rubber and
    it makes no difference. But the warning is still there.

    Then they said positive first.
    Why?

    Once started, they say remove the negative cable first.
    Why?

    The second goes with the first, so that making/breaking is with the
    negative cable, but that leaves the origial question. The correct
    answer seems counter-intuitive. I used to know the answer and it's not obvious. It had to do with accidentally ....aha it had to do with
    accidentally touching both cables to the frame of the car. Say you've
    hooked it up to the car with the good battery, and then you connect the negative first. Then while you're trying to connect the positive (and sometimes that's not easy. It has a cover or it's tucked away, or you
    can see it but can't get the clamp on, you touch the metal body or
    engine or frame of the car. Now you have both cables touching the frame
    while at the other end, at the car you are using to jump your own, they
    are connected to a good battery. Big spark. Thing you are touching it
    to gets damaged. If you manage to clamp or hold it on, cables get hot, insulation melts.

    If you connect the positive first, you know you have that cable in the
    right place, and then the ground cable would have to accidentally touch specifically the positive terminal to be a short circuit. Anything else
    it touches would be okay. In fact they also urge people to connect not
    the negative battery post but to some other body or frame part, so that
    that spark is away from the battery where the hydrogen is generated.

    I suppopse hydrogen must have been a problem at least one time in
    history -- a spark will ignite the hydrogen, and the flame could spread,
    I suppose, to the hydrogen still in the battery, which would cause the
    battery to explode and burst which will ruin the battey and spray acid
    all over the place. But as Rod said, hydrogen is light and disperses
    quickly and iirc it's only made when the battery is charging (wrong. See
    below) and is also (so this is wrong too:) discharged enough to take a
    charge, and your dead battery lately, unless it has been and ylu got interrupted and have to put the cables back on. And the good car
    battery has enough alternator voltage to charge all the time, but it's
    probably fully charged and not making any hydrogen anyhow.

    So to correct myself, it makes hydrogen when the battery is discharging.
    I suppose by the time you go find someone to jump the car, there has
    been loads of time for the hydrogen to blow away. Maybe the explosion happened in a testing lab where they were all set up and they discharged
    the battery and then recharged it immediately. ?????

    So this is less likely to be a problem and I still use my negative
    battery post for a jump, but the first question, negative on last, makes
    sense. Even though I know where to put the cable, eventually I will
    touch something I shoudln't so it's better to go in that order.

    Here, they say adding water damages the batteries. Why? >https://www.uetechnologies.com/add-water-to-battery-before-or-after-charging/

    And how often do you need to add water?

    Very rarely, unless the charging voltage of the alternator is too high,
    because the regulator isn't working right. These things continue to get
    more reliable.

    This says to add water after every ten charging cycles?
    Isn't that like every ten days?

    Or ten trips??

    I don't know what they mean by charging cycle, but I check maybe once a
    year. If I needed more than a little bit of water, I'd would plan to
    check again in a month or two. Doesn't mean I would do so. I've been
    sluggish and actually checked only once in the last 5 years. Two years
    ago. I did need quite a bit of water.

    And how do you know how much to add?

    When the water looks flat, it needs water. When the water reaches the
    right level, it touches the bottom of the tube-like thing that is the
    filler for the chamber and you can see the meniscu, where the water
    curls up at the edges, so when you look, it's not flat everywhere. It's
    curled at the edges like water in a glass is where it touches the glass.
    That means you've put in enough water. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meniscus_(liquid) Water forms a concave meniscus. Maybe liquid mercury forms a convex one. Oh, yeah sure
    enough, that's what it says. You can see it in any glass of water,
    although I think soap keeps it from forming.

    They say add water to the "splash plate" but what is that?

    Never heard that term but they must mean what I just said.

    They say the six chambers produce 2.1 volts each for 12.6 volts?
    Isn't it more than that?

    No. Charging voltage is intended to be 13.4 or something like that
    because if you only have 12.7 it will charge too slowly to recharge what
    it lost during starting or running lights while the engine is off.

    They say adding water before charging will make it overflow.
    Does it really change the water level that much from dead to charged?

    I'm sure they didbn't make this up, but I don't worry about timing like
    that and I've never noticed it overflow. OTOH, I have had shmutz on the
    top of the battery, white crud, and that is from the acid in the
    battery. Plus even if you don't see white crud, if you pour some baking
    powder on the battery and then add water (this is to the outside so it
    doesn't have to be distilled) and you see bubbles, that means there is
    acid on top of the battery. When the bubbling ends, all the acid has
    been neutralized. There very often is some. (Even sealed batteries have
    a vent iirc, but maybe not). does it get there because of evaporation
    and then condensing, can acid do that? or did the battery overflow when
    I was driving. I very rarely overfilled even one of the six chambers,
    and even then there is room for expansion. You have to overfill a lot
    before it's near the top. .

    And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?

    Tap water has minerals and they would combine with the sulfuric acid
    without generating electricity, or maybe with the lead itself. Something
    like that. They'd get involved in the chemical reactions and slightly
    lessen the power of the battery. Pb + H2S04 -> PbS04 + H2, when discharging**, and the reverse when charging, or something like that.
    The reverse is tricky because the PbS04 should release the lead and it
    should go back onto the plates. If you charge too fast it does but it
    gets covered by some other compound, probably PbS04, and it makes
    "spongy lead". then the surface of the plates isn't entirely lead and
    the battery isn't as powerful as it originally was. Also some lead etc.
    drops into the bottom, which is empty for a half inch or an inch, so
    the junk in the bottom doesn't short out the plates. Not easy to
    build a good car.

    **Oops This would mean that hydrogen is made during discharging, not
    charging like I said.

    As to sealed batteries, even non-sealed batteries pretend to be sealed
    now. They don't have 6 screw on caps. They have 2 wide flat plastic
    plates you can pry off, that look similar to sealed batteries. IIRC
    they hoped car charging systems would all work so well that sealed
    batteries would be fine, but it didn't always work out that way and
    people still had to add water and they were annoyed when they coudln't,
    so non-sealed made a resurgence, but they try to look like sealed so the
    police and border guards won't stop and interrogate them.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 07:36:28 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 07:09:56 -0500, Mighty? Wannabe?
    <@.> wrote:

    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty? Wannabe? wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.

    The reverse.


    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to understanding >them:

    ��� Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

    ��� Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

    ��� Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water does not.

    Indeed it does say that, but it doesn't give much in the way of reasons.
    Pretty much proof by assertion.

    OTOH, my googling yielded contradictory results!!!!

    I haven't read them yet, or looked for tie breakers, becusae I think
    it's worth reporting the mere fact that it has contradictory results:

    Here is my search https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=deionized+water+vs+distilled+water+for+batteries
    and, not counting the Q&A part, these are the first two hits.

    Water that has been purified of dissolved minerals and salts through a
    process called deionization is recognized as the best choice for
    maintaining lead-acid batteries. Deionization eliminates more impurities
    from water than distillation or conventional filters.
    The Perfect �Solution� for Maintaining Your Lead-Acid Batteries https://www.crown.com � articles � energy-management

    vs.

    Can you use Deionized Water in Batteries?
    https://www.phlsci.com � news � articles � can-you-use-...
    Oct 12, 2021 � Whilst deionized water is not as pure as distilled water;
    it is perfect for industrial battery watering. It is a cost-effective
    method


    Plainlly, the second article was written by a Brit, or someone from the Commonwealth. As an American, I should favor the first article, but I
    don't, so I will control my patriotism and wait for more information.


    If the only ions in distilled but not de-ionized water are hyrogen,
    oxygen and/or hydroxide ions, I don't see how they would cause a probem
    in a battery. Doesn't any water in a lead acid battery ionize into
    those very ions? And how could there be other ions than those three in distilled water? Maybe the answer is in the articles, but I've already
    spent a lot of time on this thread, so I'll either wait until you guys
    resolve this, or I'll come back later with renewed energy.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 07:45:07 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote on 1/18/2023 7:09 AM:
    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.

    The reverse.


    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to
    understanding them:

        Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

        Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

        Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water does not.




    People have the wrong impression that "distilled water" is the purest
    form of water but that's not true. Common distilled water is obtained by boiling water and collecting the condensed steam. The condensed steam is
    not 100% pure H2O because there are chemicals in the water with lower
    boiling point than H2O that will come over in the distillation process.

    The best way to get deionized water is to start the deionization process
    with distilled water because there will be a lot less impurities to
    remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to micky on Wed Jan 18 07:55:24 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    micky wrote on 1/18/2023 7:36 AM:
    In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 07:09:56 -0500, Mighty? Wannabe?
    <@.> wrote:

    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty? Wannabe? wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.
    The reverse.

    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to understanding
    them:

        Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

        Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

        Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water does not.

    Indeed it does say that, but it doesn't give much in the way of reasons. Pretty much proof by assertion.

    OTOH, my googling yielded contradictory results!!!!

    I haven't read them yet, or looked for tie breakers, becusae I think
    it's worth reporting the mere fact that it has contradictory results:

    Here is my search https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=deionized+water+vs+distilled+water+for+batteries
    and, not counting the Q&A part, these are the first two hits.

    Water that has been purified of dissolved minerals and salts through a process called deionization is recognized as the best choice for
    maintaining lead-acid batteries. Deionization eliminates more impurities
    from water than distillation or conventional filters.
    The Perfect “Solution” for Maintaining Your Lead-Acid Batteries https://www.crown.com › articles › energy-management

    vs.

    Can you use Deionized Water in Batteries?
    https://www.phlsci.com › news › articles › can-you-use-...
    Oct 12, 2021 — Whilst deionized water is not as pure as distilled water;
    it is perfect for industrial battery watering. It is a cost-effective
    method


    Plainlly, the second article was written by a Brit, or someone from the Commonwealth. As an American, I should favor the first article, but I
    don't, so I will control my patriotism and wait for more information.


    If the only ions in distilled but not de-ionized water are hyrogen,
    oxygen and/or hydroxide ions, I don't see how they would cause a probem
    in a battery. Doesn't any water in a lead acid battery ionize into
    those very ions? And how could there be other ions than those three in distilled water? Maybe the answer is in the articles, but I've already spent a lot of time on this thread, so I'll either wait until you guys resolve this, or I'll come back later with renewed energy.


    People have the wrong impression that "distilled water" is the purest
    form of water but that's not true. Common distilled water is obtained by boiling water and collecting the condensed steam. The condensed steam is
    not 100% pure H2O because there are chemicals in the water with lower
    boiling point than H2O that will come over in the distillation process.

    The best way to get deionized water is to start the deionization process
    with distilled water because there will be a lot less impurities to
    remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.

    You don't get pure H2O by using a home water deionizer in your water
    pipe using resin beads because most of the impurities will still pass
    through the resin beads.

    You can tell deionized water is purer simply by the price. I can get a
    gallon (4L) of distilled water from a supermarket for about $1, but I
    have to go to an auto-parts store to get deionized water for about $6.

    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/turbo-power-deionized-water-3-78-l-0293003p.html

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 08:44:39 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote on 1/18/2023 7:55 AM:
    micky wrote on 1/18/2023 7:36 AM:
    In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 07:09:56 -0500, Mighty? Wannabe?
    <@.> wrote:

    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty? Wannabe? wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.
    The reverse.

    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to
    understanding
    them:

         Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

         Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

         Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water
    does not.

    Indeed it does say that, but it doesn't give much in the way of reasons.
    Pretty much proof by assertion.

    OTOH, my googling yielded contradictory results!!!!

    I haven't read them yet, or looked for tie breakers, becusae I think
    it's worth reporting the mere fact that it has contradictory results:

    Here is my search
    https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=deionized+water+vs+distilled+water+for+batteries

    and, not counting the Q&A part, these are the first two hits.

    Water that has been purified of dissolved minerals and salts through a
    process called deionization is recognized as the best choice for
    maintaining lead-acid batteries. Deionization eliminates more impurities
    from water than distillation or conventional filters.
    The Perfect “Solution” for Maintaining Your Lead-Acid Batteries
    https://www.crown.com › articles › energy-management

    vs.

    Can you use Deionized Water in Batteries?
    https://www.phlsci.com › news › articles › can-you-use-...
    Oct 12, 2021 — Whilst deionized water is not as pure as distilled water; >> it is perfect for industrial battery watering. It is a cost-effective
    method


    Plainlly, the second article was written by a Brit, or someone from the
    Commonwealth.  As an American, I should favor the first article, but I
    don't, so I will control my patriotism and wait for more information.


    If the only ions in distilled but not de-ionized water are hyrogen,
    oxygen and/or hydroxide ions, I don't see how they would cause a probem
    in a battery.  Doesn't any water in a lead acid battery ionize into
    those very ions?  And how could there be other ions than those three in
    distilled water?   Maybe the answer is in the articles, but I've already >> spent a lot of time on this thread, so I'll either wait until you guys
    resolve this, or I'll come back later with renewed energy.


    People have the wrong impression that "distilled water" is the purest
    form of water but that's not true. Common distilled water is obtained
    by boiling water and collecting the condensed steam. The condensed
    steam is not 100% pure H2O because there are chemicals in the water
    with lower boiling point than H2O that will come over in the
    distillation process.

    The best way to get deionized water is to start the deionization
    process with distilled water because there will be a lot less
    impurities to remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.

    You don't get pure H2O by using a home water deionizer in your water
    pipe using resin beads because most of the impurities will still pass
    through the resin beads.

    You can tell deionized water is purer simply by the price. I can get a
    gallon (4L) of distilled water from a supermarket for about $1, but I
    have to go to an auto-parts store to get deionized water for about $6.

    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/turbo-power-deionized-water-3-78-l-0293003p.html





    Read the product description of that deionized water for "topping up car battery":

    Turbo Power Deionized Water, 3.78-L

    Turbo Power Deionized Water helps provide protection against the
    damaging effects of scale build-up and corrosion often caused by the use
    of regular water. Ideal for topping-up cooling systems, topping-up car batteries when battery acid level is low and diluting concentrated
    radiator antifreeze/coolants.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 14:40:22 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 07:09:56 -0500, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    I'll see your URL and raise you two:

    https://www.uswatersystems.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water

    "Deionized water and Distilled water are both types of extremely pure
    water, but they are produced in two distinctly different ways. Depending
    on the source water, distilled water can be more pure than deionized water
    – but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's better. There are pros and
    cons to using deionized water vs. distilled water for particular
    processes, particularly when it comes to cost and efficiency."

    https://americanhomewater.com/what-is-deionized-water-and-what-is-it-used-
    for/

    "The main difference between these two types of water comes in the form of purity. Deionized water is the purest form of water available and, in some cases, can be considered a type of synthetic water. However, distilled
    water does not contain any impurities and therefore has fewer contaminants
    than deionized water."

    It's a toss.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to rbowman on Wed Jan 18 10:27:04 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    rbowman wrote on 1/18/2023 9:40 AM:
    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 07:09:56 -0500, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/
    I'll see your URL and raise you two:

    https://www.uswatersystems.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water

    "Deionized water and Distilled water are both types of extremely pure
    water, but they are produced in two distinctly different ways. Depending
    on the source water, distilled water can be more pure than deionized water – but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's better. There are pros and cons to using deionized water vs. distilled water for particular
    processes, particularly when it comes to cost and efficiency."

    https://americanhomewater.com/what-is-deionized-water-and-what-is-it-used- for/

    "The main difference between these two types of water comes in the form of purity. Deionized water is the purest form of water available and, in some cases, can be considered a type of synthetic water. However, distilled
    water does not contain any impurities and therefore has fewer contaminants than deionized water."

    It's a toss.


    "However, distilled water does not contain any impurities" is definitely
    a misconception. The writer of that article is definitely babbling
    nonsense without any real knowledge.

    I am a self-made expert in distillation. I own two expensive fractional distillation columns, and I currently own about 5 counter-top water
    distillers. If you know how to use the digital counter-top water
    distiller in an inventive way, you can do fractional distillation professionally in your kitchen.

    Fractional distillation column: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractionating_column

    When water boils, it is not just pure H2O that is coming out in the
    steam. All other minor solutes in the water with boiling point lower
    than water will also come out in the steam. Besides that, some of the
    light weight microscopic impurities in the water will also "ride" the
    steam and come out of the boiling water.

    You can do very accurate fractional distillation using a digital
    counter-top water distiller from Amazon. You can set the boiling
    temperature digitally, and theoretically you can separately a mixture of
    many solutes with differently boiling points by distilling at different temperatures.

    My own expertise is electrical engineering but I am, in a way, a crazy scientist.

    There are a few varieties of digital counter-top water distillers from
    Amazon:

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=digital+countertop+water+distiller

    Most of them are 750W power. That will be too much power if you try to
    distill a volatile liquid because the built-in fan and condenser coil at
    the top of the distiller cannot condense the volatile vapour fast enough
    (so some of them will escape to the air). You can effectively cut the
    power in half by opening the bottom and solder a single rectifier diode
    to the wire leading to the heating coil. You can further adjust the
    power by connecting to unit to a variable auto-transformer which can
    lower the power supply voltage to reduce power.

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=variable+auto+transformer

    I'll refuse any responsibility if you cause physical injury or property
    damage by trying the fun things I have just described above.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter@21:1/5 to MightyWannabe on Wed Jan 18 15:16:22 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    MightyWannabe wrote:

    There is a good possibility the rectifiers (diodes) in your alternator
    could fry because it is recommended that your car be running when you
    jump start another car. The rectifiers of your car is supplying electric current from the alternator and can overload due to the jump start
    operation.

    In the recipient car, when the engine finally starts, I was told since I
    was young that the best way to "absorb" some of the excess current in the
    first few seconds is for the recipient to turn on the headlights.

    This seems counterintuitive from the recipient's standpoint in terms of
    "using" current but the theory is that the "B" sense circuit of the
    alternator (which is just a coil of wire in the end) senses a "very low" battery so it tells the alternator to put out a "very high" current, whose initial burst could ("they say") fry the rectifying wheatstone diodes.

    Maybe it makes sense to the electronics folks who are asked to comment.

    There is also the possibility of the voltage drop so low momentarily
    that your car stereo's anti-theft system kicks in, and you'll have to go
    back to the car dealership to enter the anti-theft code. The anti-theft system detects the zero voltage when it is ripped from the dashboard.

    But what happens each time you replace the battery every few years?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 15:37:33 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.
    The reverse.

    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to understanding >>> them:

        Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

        Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

        Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water does not.

    Indeed it does say that, but it doesn't give much in the way of reasons.
    Pretty much proof by assertion.

    OTOH, my googling yielded contradictory results!!!!

    I haven't read them yet, or looked for tie breakers, becusae I think
    it's worth reporting the mere fact that it has contradictory results:

    Here is my search
    https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=deionized+water+vs+distilled+water+for+batteries
    and, not counting the Q&A part, these are the first two hits.

    Water that has been purified of dissolved minerals and salts through a
    process called deionization is recognized as the best choice for
    maintaining lead-acid batteries. Deionization eliminates more impurities
    from water than distillation or conventional filters.
    The Perfect “Solution” for Maintaining Your Lead-Acid Batteries
    https://www.crown.com › articles › energy-management

    vs.

    Can you use Deionized Water in Batteries?
    https://www.phlsci.com › news › articles › can-you-use-...
    Oct 12, 2021 — Whilst deionized water is not as pure as distilled water; >> it is perfect for industrial battery watering. It is a cost-effective
    method


    Plainlly, the second article was written by a Brit, or someone from the
    Commonwealth. As an American, I should favor the first article, but I
    don't, so I will control my patriotism and wait for more information.


    If the only ions in distilled but not de-ionized water are hyrogen,
    oxygen and/or hydroxide ions, I don't see how they would cause a probem
    in a battery. Doesn't any water in a lead acid battery ionize into
    those very ions? And how could there be other ions than those three in
    distilled water? Maybe the answer is in the articles, but I've already
    spent a lot of time on this thread, so I'll either wait until you guys
    resolve this, or I'll come back later with renewed energy.

    People have the wrong impression that "distilled water" is the purest
    form of water but that's not true. Common distilled water is obtained by boiling water and collecting the condensed steam. The condensed steam is
    not 100% pure H2O because there are chemicals in the water with lower
    boiling point than H2O that will come over in the distillation process.

    The best way to get deionized water is to start the deionization process
    with distilled water because there will be a lot less impurities to
    remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.

    You don't get pure H2O by using a home water deionizer in your water
    pipe using resin beads because most of the impurities will still pass
    through the resin beads.

    You can tell deionized water is purer simply by the price. I can get a
    gallon (4L) of distilled water from a supermarket for about $1, but I
    have to go to an auto-parts store to get deionized water for about $6.

    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/turbo-power-deionized-water-3-78-l-0293003p.html

    Didn't the conversation recently happen that rain water (now that "acid
    rain" is no longer a thing, thanks to the EPA), is just as good as
    distilled water nowadays?

    Sure, it's slightly acidic at pH 5.6 (if it's not acid rain, that is, as
    acid rain is pH 5.5 or lower by EPA definition someone found out), but a
    bit of weak carbonic acid (from the dissolved carbon dioxide) won't hurt
    the strong sulfuric acid in a lead:acid battery, will it?

    I'm guessing that rain water nowadays, unless you live within a few miles
    of a volcano (and you don't) or a coal-fired power plant (and you don't),
    is pretty damn close to distilled water in most parts of the country.

    Sure rain water will have a bit of "something here" and "something there"
    based on the dissolved gases in the atmosphere, but so will any bottle of distilled water that has ever been open to the exact same atmosphere.

    Someone said there are "particles" in the rain water, but I don't believe
    that as you can't see any when you collect it outside and even if there
    were, a coffee filter would filter them out just fine (and who says store bought distilled water doesn't have particles?).

    Sure, both might have particles, but I can't imagine they could matter
    given how few there would be if you can't even see them with your eyes.

    But I don't know. I'm just trying to reason this stuff out like the rest of you. If there's someone who actually knows what he's talking about (not
    me), then that person should set me straight before I go on with this line
    of reasoning.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Wed Jan 18 15:28:58 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    <[email protected]> wrote:
    I always did positive first. I will switch!

    Think it out first - then decide.

    I'm thinking... I'm thinking... I'm trying to think this thing out.
    I don't think it matters all that much which cable goes first or last.

    As far as I can think about it, the last connection is the one that sparks.
    And that means the first disconnection is the one that sparks.

    Since you don't want that spark to be near any concentration of flammable hydrogen gas, I guess the theory that I'll concoct is you want the negative cable to be as far from that hydrogen gas as possible.

    That makes it the negative cable to be the last to connect.
    And the first to disconnect.

    Now, if the theory is to proceed accordingly, we have to decide which
    battery has the most chance of having excess hydrogen gas.

    The answer likely is neither will have any, but if we have to choose, which battery will have more hydrogen outgassing?

    (A) The donor battery (which is likely already topped off) or
    (B) The recipient battery (which is likely taking the greater charge)

    The answer seems, to me, to be neither battery will have excess hydrogen
    gas, but if I was forced to choose, I guess the battery being charged the
    most has the most excess hydrogen gas, which would clearly be the donor.

    All this is just "thinking it out" so tell me if I'm wrong so I learn from
    your expertise (the royal your that is, as everyone has something to say).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Peter on Wed Jan 18 10:41:48 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 10:16 AM:
    MightyWannabe wrote:

    There is a good possibility the rectifiers (diodes) in your alternator
    could fry because it is recommended that your car be running when you
    jump start another car. The rectifiers of your car is supplying electric
    current from the alternator and can overload due to the jump start
    operation.
    In the recipient car, when the engine finally starts, I was told since I
    was young that the best way to "absorb" some of the excess current in the first few seconds is for the recipient to turn on the headlights.

    This seems counterintuitive from the recipient's standpoint in terms of "using" current but the theory is that the "B" sense circuit of the alternator (which is just a coil of wire in the end) senses a "very low" battery so it tells the alternator to put out a "very high" current, whose initial burst could ("they say") fry the rectifying wheatstone diodes.

    Maybe it makes sense to the electronics folks who are asked to comment.

    There is also the possibility of the voltage drop so low momentarily
    that your car stereo's anti-theft system kicks in, and you'll have to go
    back to the car dealership to enter the anti-theft code. The anti-theft
    system detects the zero voltage when it is ripped from the dashboard.
    But what happens each time you replace the battery every few years?


    I can think of a simple way. Connect jump cable clamps to the car
    battery terminals and then carefully loosen and lift the terminals from
    the old battery.

    Another way is to connect a 12V cigarette lighter plug into the
    cigarette lighter socket to temporarily maintain a 12V to the whole
    system from another 12V power source before you disconnect your old
    battery. You may have to power on the accessories in your car if you car
    is designed to cut off the power to the cigarette lighter socket when
    the ignition is off.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Peter on Wed Jan 18 10:50:01 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 10:37 AM:
    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.
    The reverse.

    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to understanding >>>> them:

        Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

        Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

        Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water does not.

    Indeed it does say that, but it doesn't give much in the way of reasons. >>> Pretty much proof by assertion.

    OTOH, my googling yielded contradictory results!!!!

    I haven't read them yet, or looked for tie breakers, becusae I think
    it's worth reporting the mere fact that it has contradictory results:

    Here is my search
    https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=deionized+water+vs+distilled+water+for+batteries
    and, not counting the Q&A part, these are the first two hits.

    Water that has been purified of dissolved minerals and salts through a
    process called deionization is recognized as the best choice for
    maintaining lead-acid batteries. Deionization eliminates more impurities >>> from water than distillation or conventional filters.
    The Perfect “Solution” for Maintaining Your Lead-Acid Batteries >>> https://www.crown.com › articles › energy-management

    vs.

    Can you use Deionized Water in Batteries?
    https://www.phlsci.com › news › articles › can-you-use-...
    Oct 12, 2021 — Whilst deionized water is not as pure as distilled water;
    it is perfect for industrial battery watering. It is a cost-effective
    method


    Plainlly, the second article was written by a Brit, or someone from the
    Commonwealth. As an American, I should favor the first article, but I
    don't, so I will control my patriotism and wait for more information.


    If the only ions in distilled but not de-ionized water are hyrogen,
    oxygen and/or hydroxide ions, I don't see how they would cause a probem
    in a battery. Doesn't any water in a lead acid battery ionize into
    those very ions? And how could there be other ions than those three in
    distilled water? Maybe the answer is in the articles, but I've already >>> spent a lot of time on this thread, so I'll either wait until you guys
    resolve this, or I'll come back later with renewed energy.
    People have the wrong impression that "distilled water" is the purest
    form of water but that's not true. Common distilled water is obtained by
    boiling water and collecting the condensed steam. The condensed steam is
    not 100% pure H2O because there are chemicals in the water with lower
    boiling point than H2O that will come over in the distillation process.

    The best way to get deionized water is to start the deionization process
    with distilled water because there will be a lot less impurities to
    remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.

    You don't get pure H2O by using a home water deionizer in your water
    pipe using resin beads because most of the impurities will still pass
    through the resin beads.

    You can tell deionized water is purer simply by the price. I can get a
    gallon (4L) of distilled water from a supermarket for about $1, but I
    have to go to an auto-parts store to get deionized water for about $6.

    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/turbo-power-deionized-water-3-78-l-0293003p.html
    Didn't the conversation recently happen that rain water (now that "acid
    rain" is no longer a thing, thanks to the EPA), is just as good as
    distilled water nowadays?

    Sure, it's slightly acidic at pH 5.6 (if it's not acid rain, that is, as
    acid rain is pH 5.5 or lower by EPA definition someone found out), but a
    bit of weak carbonic acid (from the dissolved carbon dioxide) won't hurt
    the strong sulfuric acid in a lead:acid battery, will it?

    I'm guessing that rain water nowadays, unless you live within a few miles
    of a volcano (and you don't) or a coal-fired power plant (and you don't),
    is pretty damn close to distilled water in most parts of the country.

    Sure rain water will have a bit of "something here" and "something there" based on the dissolved gases in the atmosphere, but so will any bottle of distilled water that has ever been open to the exact same atmosphere.

    Someone said there are "particles" in the rain water, but I don't believe that as you can't see any when you collect it outside and even if there
    were, a coffee filter would filter them out just fine (and who says store bought distilled water doesn't have particles?).

    Sure, both might have particles, but I can't imagine they could matter
    given how few there would be if you can't even see them with your eyes.

    But I don't know. I'm just trying to reason this stuff out like the rest of you. If there's someone who actually knows what he's talking about (not
    me), then that person should set me straight before I go on with this line
    of reasoning.


    You can make do with rain water or tap water to top up the lead-acid
    battery but doing it too often will accumulate too much impurities in
    the battery fluid.

    You can make do with distilled water but that is not as good as
    deionized water, which technically should be processed from distilled water.

    A responsible auto shop or car dealership should use deionized water to
    dilute the sulfuric acid to use as battery fluid.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 15:50:24 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    People have the wrong impression that "distilled water" is the purest
    form of water but that's not true. Common distilled water is obtained by boiling water and collecting the condensed steam. The condensed steam is
    not 100% pure H2O because there are chemicals in the water with lower
    boiling point than H2O that will come over in the distillation process.

    The best way to get deionized water is to start the deionization process
    with distilled water because there will be a lot less impurities to
    remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.

    It's a car battery. It's not a silicon based integrated circuit.
    Water is water. To a certain degree it's all the same thing.

    I don't know the answer for sure, but I would reason out that almost all
    tap water will be just fine in a car battery although I don't doubt
    chlorine (or chloramines?) that they put in them might affect the lead:acid chemistry.

    They add fluorine too I think, and there might be a decent amount of
    calcium carbonates and metallic ions such as copper and phosphorous.

    I'm guessing that the minute amount of such things (having owned a pool,
    I'm aware they're in the PPM range, and PPB for phosphorous) in a car
    battery designed to last five years, won't make one bit of difference.

    An example of tap water total alkalinity is around 50 to 200 PPM and the calcium hardness due to calcium salts would range a bit higher, maybe
    double (depending, of course, on the amount of old shallow seas in your
    area fifty to two hundred million years ago).

    But distilled water is cheap and rain water is even cheaper, and, in fact,
    so is tap water - so since they're all dirt cheap, may as well use the rain water.

    That's how I see it from a reasoned approach, where I'm very familiar with
    the scare tactics pool stores try to pull on people when they find
    something, anything, to say "oh that's going to damage your equipment."

    Same technique those Indian "Microsoft support tech" try to pull on you
    when _they_ call you and tell you to look in the Event Viewer and all those errors indicate your computer needs their expert help with ransomware
    addition.

    Overall, does ANYONE have ANY real data that tap water actually degrades a
    car batter enough for someone to actually measure the results in 5 years?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter@21:1/5 to rbowman on Wed Jan 18 15:53:12 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    rbowman <[email protected]> wrote:
    "Deionized water and Distilled water are both types of extremely pure
    water, but they are produced in two distinctly different ways.

    Has anyone wondered whether the "pure" water will be "leaching" out the chemistry of the lead:acid plates inside the battery?

    Having owned a pool, all water chemistry tends toward equilibrium, and dissolved salts (metal and a non metal) are no exception to the rule.

    So the more pure the water, the more it will dissolve a bit of that
    lead:acid compound that they slather on the plates between rubber sheets.

    Has anyone thought of that?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 16:09:25 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    You can make do with rain water or tap water to top up the lead-acid
    battery but doing it too often will accumulate too much impurities in
    the battery fluid.

    I say from the start that I'm only "reasoning" this out, purely
    theoretically, so while I'm sure adding tap water with high calcium
    carbonates will add "some" impurities.

    Your use of "too much" is what bothers me, only because I've never seen a single reliable source that tested this for the five year life of a
    battery.

    I'm sure someone tested it - but I've never seen those tests, where my assumption, without those tests, is sure, "something" will be added, but
    will it make any difference in a twenty-five pound battery designed to last only five years?

    You can make do with distilled water but that is not as good as
    deionized water, which technically should be processed from distilled water.

    Again I'm only reasoning this out, and I would back off on my rationale the instant someone shows me batteries being harmed by rain water, which is distilled water nowadays, despite the "acid rain" scare tactics of some.

    The Indian "Microsoft support techs" tried to pull the same scare tactics
    on me that the pool stores do, where they take a single tiny event and turn
    it into the explosion of the Maine in Havana's harbor.

    A responsible auto shop or car dealership should use deionized water to dilute the sulfuric acid to use as battery fluid.

    A commercial outfit will always follow industry standards if they're
    reputable (most are not, in my humble opinion - most are scammers).

    That's why you never believe anything coming out of the mouth of someone selling you a service without checking it (for example, they'll tell you
    that you "need" a fluid change when the owners manual will disagree).

    They're all scheisters in my book - and I've been sheisted by them so I
    know this for a fact that some are sheisters who can't be trusted.

    Back to this topic, how do you know that the "pure" water isn't leaching
    out all the good paste on the plates, now that it's devoid of ions?

    I'm not asking this as a challenge - as the basic logic is sound.

    What I'm looking for is a real answer to the practical question of how much could it possibly matter in a twenty-five pound battery designed for a
    short life in what turns out to be miserably inhospitable temperature & vibration conditions, not to mention discharge recharge redox cycles.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter@21:1/5 to micky on Wed Jan 18 16:21:25 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    micky <[email protected]> wrote:
    It had to do with accidentally ....aha it had to do with
    accidentally touching both cables to the frame of the car. Say you've
    hooked it up to the car with the good battery, and then you connect the negative first. Then while you're trying to connect the positive (and sometimes that's not easy. It has a cover or it's tucked away, or you
    can see it but can't get the clamp on, you touch the metal body or
    engine or frame of the car. Now you have both cables touching the frame while at the other end, at the car you are using to jump your own, they
    are connected to a good battery. Big spark.

    Well. That makes sense. So maybe my initial reasoning was wrong that the
    last cable attach will spark, and you want that spark away from the
    battery, so that would have to be the negative cable.

    However, you also said that the DISCHARGED battery is the one with all the hydrogen, so that means that you want to put the donor battery cable on
    last (because that's where the spark will be and the donor battery is
    presumed to have less hydrogen outgassing).

    But then you made a good point that if you put the positive on first, then anything any negative touches by accident, will spark where it touched.

    So now we have one good reason to put the negative on last and specifically
    the negative on the DONOR car on last by one line of reasoning, and by
    another line of reasoning, we have the positive going on last, presumably
    also on the donor car because it's going to spark.

    Which is the correct line of reasoning?

    (A) Put the negative on the donor car last because that spark is least
    likely to ignite hydrogen gases from the discharged battery or
    (B) Put the positive on the donor car last because you have less chance
    of accidentally shorting the circuit & the donor has less outgassing

    Which is more logical?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Peter on Wed Jan 18 11:18:04 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 10:53 AM:
    rbowman <[email protected]> wrote:
    "Deionized water and Distilled water are both types of extremely pure
    water, but they are produced in two distinctly different ways.
    Has anyone wondered whether the "pure" water will be "leaching" out the chemistry of the lead:acid plates inside the battery?

    Having owned a pool, all water chemistry tends toward equilibrium, and dissolved salts (metal and a non metal) are no exception to the rule.

    So the more pure the water, the more it will dissolve a bit of that
    lead:acid compound that they slather on the plates between rubber sheets.

    Has anyone thought of that?


    Have you thought of using corncob instead of toilet paper? Corncob is
    cheap, natural and reusable. LOL!!!

    Although deionized water is 6 times more expensive than distilled water,
    but one gallon goes a long way.

    Use deionized water if you want the best for your lead-acid battery.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Frank@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 12:01:45 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 1/18/2023 11:18 AM, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
    Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 10:53 AM:
    rbowman <[email protected]> wrote:
    "Deionized water and Distilled water are both types of extremely pure
    water, but they are produced in two distinctly different ways.
    Has anyone wondered whether the "pure" water will be "leaching" out the
    chemistry of the lead:acid plates inside the battery?

    Having owned a pool, all water chemistry tends toward equilibrium, and
    dissolved salts (metal and a non metal) are no exception to the rule.

    So the more pure the water, the more it will dissolve a bit of that
    lead:acid compound that they slather on the plates between rubber sheets.

    Has anyone thought of that?


    Have you thought of using corncob instead of toilet paper? Corncob is
    cheap, natural and reusable. LOL!!!

    Although deionized water is 6 times more expensive than distilled water,
    but one gallon goes a long way.

    Use deionized water if you want the best for your lead-acid battery.



    Think those costs are off with two different sources and sizes.

    Google sez this:

    "However, in general, distilled water is more expensive than deionized
    water. This is because it takes more time and energy to produce
    distilled water, and it also requires special equipment that not all
    companies have."

    When I worked in the lab we had a distilled water line to every bench
    but it was replaced by deionized water to save cost.

    Been decades since I had a car battery that needed water but I am
    hearing it is better to put distilled or demineralized water in your car radiator if needed as minerals are bad there too.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Wed Jan 18 12:02:22 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 16:21:25 +0000, Peter <[email protected]> wrote:

    micky <[email protected]> wrote:
    It had to do with accidentally ....aha it had to do with
    accidentally touching both cables to the frame of the car. Say you've
    hooked it up to the car with the good battery, and then you connect the
    negative first. Then while you're trying to connect the positive (and
    sometimes that's not easy. It has a cover or it's tucked away, or you
    can see it but can't get the clamp on, you touch the metal body or
    engine or frame of the car. Now you have both cables touching the frame
    while at the other end, at the car you are using to jump your own, they
    are connected to a good battery. Big spark.

    Well. That makes sense. So maybe my initial reasoning was wrong that the
    last cable attach will spark, and you want that spark away from the
    battery, so that would have to be the negative cable.

    However, you also said that the DISCHARGED battery is the one with all the >hydrogen, so that means that you want to put the donor battery cable on
    last (because that's where the spark will be and the donor battery is >presumed to have less hydrogen outgassing).

    Oh yeah, I think they say to do that too, but I've never worried about
    that. And I've gotten tired of standing there holding my battery cables waiting for someone to offer me a jump, so I bought what is no longer
    sold, Battery Buddy. It was great. When the car voltage got low, it disconnected the battery and all you had to do was open the hood, push a
    big red button, and the car woulds start. The first one lasted iirc 12
    years, but I had planned ahead and bought another, tthat came in an
    unlabeled brown box. It lasted only a year or two. I think it came from
    their stack of likely defective ones, that say in a corner until the
    company folded. (a lot of assumptions here, but I coudlnt' find any
    more for sale.)

    Finally I found Priority Start, 4 or 5 times the price, but it has a
    motor, so all I have to do is sit in the driver's seat and put my foot
    on the brake and it reconnects the battery. I've had it 3 or 4 years
    and I've used it twice and it's great. It seems to be made mostly for commerical trucking fleets, so they would lose money if the truck
    doesn't start, and they tolerate the higher price. https://www.prioritystart.com/ http://www.mcssl.com/store/prioritystart/12vpromax https://www.mcssl.com/store/prioritystart/models

    I had a lot of trouble connecting the Toyota battery cable to this
    thing. Toyota's seem pretty good but their battery connectors leave a
    lot to be desired. Or some related problem.

    The car radio forgets most of what it wants knew, and the engine timing information is forgotten I guess, although I've never noticed a change
    in how the car runs, at least not for more than 5 minutes. Newer cars
    might forget even more, but at least I wasn't late to my doctor's
    appointment.

    But then you made a good point that if you put the positive on first, then >anything any negative touches by accident, will spark where it touched.

    So now we have one good reason to put the negative on last and specifically >the negative on the DONOR car on last by one line of reasoning, and by >another line of reasoning, we have the positive going on last, presumably >also on the donor car because it's going to spark.

    Which is the correct line of reasoning?

    (A) Put the negative on the donor car last because that spark is least
    likely to ignite hydrogen gases from the discharged battery or
    (B) Put the positive on the donor car last because you have less chance
    of accidentally shorting the circuit & the donor has less outgassing

    Which is more logical?

    I don't see any reason to doubt what the poobahs say.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Slevin@21:1/5 to Peter on Wed Jan 18 17:37:36 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Peter wrote:

    Overall, does ANYONE have ANY real data that tap water actually degrades a car batter enough for someone to actually measure the results in 5 years?



    I've got a 6 year old U1 lawn tractor battery in the snow thrower and a
    8 year old U1 in the zero turn. I use RO water to replenish both when
    needed.

    Off season, I throw a Battery Minder Plus 1510 on them so they don't discharge/freeze/sulfate.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Robertson@21:1/5 to mike on Wed Jan 18 09:54:10 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 2023/01/17 8:33 p.m., mike wrote:
    On 18-01-2023 09:40 Clifford Heath <[email protected]> wrote:

    In case there is any hydrogen gas that has developed in the battery
    and may be still concentrated enough to burn, any spark from
    completing the circuit should be made at some distance from the
    battery. That is, but connecting the earth to some metal part of the
    chassis, not to the battery terminal itself.

    Thank you for trying to explain why they said here to connect + first. https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/

    Isn't there a spark no matter what cable is the last point to be connected?

    The chassis is (usually) negative, which is why that is the first and
    last contact point.

    I'm not disputing that since I'm the one asking the question, but didn't
    that article above say the opposite?
    They said to connect a negative cable last to the chassis of the dead car.

    The point is to first connect the positive lead to the battery positive,
    and then the negative lead AWAY FROM THE BATTERY by connecting to the
    engine metal. In that order for safety.

    After the engine starts, then disconnect the negative lead that is AWAY
    FROM THE BATTERY so any spark created at the disconnect point is
    unlikely to cause the battery to explode if hydrogen gas was created.
    Perhaps you left the jumpers connected for a few minutes while charging
    the battery which leads to more hydrogen gas which makes a spark more
    and more likely/dangerous as time goes on...

    John :-#)#
    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Frank on Wed Jan 18 13:34:40 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Frank wrote on 1/18/2023 12:01 PM:
    On 1/18/2023 11:18 AM, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
    Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 10:53 AM:
    rbowman <[email protected]> wrote:
    "Deionized water and Distilled water are both types of extremely pure
    water, but they are produced in two distinctly different ways.
    Has anyone wondered whether the "pure" water will be "leaching" out the
    chemistry of the lead:acid plates inside the battery?

    Having owned a pool, all water chemistry tends toward equilibrium, and
    dissolved salts (metal and a non metal) are no exception to the rule.

    So the more pure the water, the more it will dissolve a bit of that
    lead:acid compound that they slather on the plates between rubber
    sheets.

    Has anyone thought of that?


    Have you thought of using corncob instead of toilet paper? Corncob is
    cheap, natural and reusable. LOL!!!

    Although deionized water is 6 times more expensive than distilled
    water, but one gallon goes a long way.

    Use deionized water if you want the best for your lead-acid battery.



    Think those costs are off with two different sources and sizes.

    Google sez this:

    "However, in general, distilled water is more expensive than deionized
    water. This is because it takes more time and energy to produce
    distilled water, and it also requires special equipment that not all companies have."

    When I worked in the lab we had a distilled water line to every bench
    but it was replaced by deionized water to save cost.

    Been decades since I had a car battery that needed water but I am
    hearing it is better to put distilled or demineralized water in your
    car radiator if needed as minerals are bad there too.



    Distilled water is good enough for being devoid of "almost" all
    impurities except some ions. Distilled water is still quite conductive
    if you test a glass of distilled water with a multimeter.

    Deionized water for home use is done with a canister of resin beads
    inline with your water pipe. The water is passed through the canister
    that can capture most, but not all the ions. Since the resin beads has
    charges that can capture only ionized particles in the water, other
    impurities in the water that have no electrical charges will not be
    captured.

    Therefore, as I have explained before, the highest grade of pure water
    is deionized water made from distilled water.

    Theoretically pure H2O does not conduct electricity, but in reality only deionized water made from distilled water can approached that
    theoretical state of being purely dielectric.

    https://puretecwater.com/deionized-water/what-is-deionized-water

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Wed Jan 18 14:42:34 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 16:21:25 +0000, Peter <[email protected]> wrote:


    Which is the correct line of reasoning?

    (A) Put the negative on the donor car last because that spark is least
    likely to ignite hydrogen gases from the discharged battery or
    (B) Put the positive on the donor car last because you have less chance
    of accidentally shorting the circuit & the donor has less outgassing

    Which is more logical?

    There is also C: Put the positive on the recipient car last because you
    have less chance of accidentally shorting the circuit & there is no
    hydrogen there.

    Of A and B, they might both be logoical but B is more important.
    Shorting the donor battery, even at the other car, is going to cause a
    lot more trouble, cause a lot more damage, than hydrogen gases. That's
    why B is recommended.

    Usually the guy helping me is also putting the cables on his car, but I
    still look at them before I finish my car. For various reason, I've
    had many dead batteries. Once a pretty girl stopped to give my car
    battery a jump.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From ehsjr@21:1/5 to Peter on Wed Jan 18 15:08:51 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 1/18/2023 10:28 AM, Peter wrote:
    <[email protected]> wrote:
    I always did positive first. I will switch!

    Think it out first - then decide.

    I'm thinking... I'm thinking... I'm trying to think this thing out.
    I don't think it matters all that much which cable goes first or last.

    Yes it does. First, set any thoughts of sparks causing an explosion
    aside. That's a *very* low probability occurrence as compared to the
    real reason. Unfortunately, a lot of people focus on the sparks
    issue and don't mention the real reason. And please note that the real
    reason also involves sparks.

    The real reason has been mentioned earlier, but apparently
    needs to be repeated, maybe with more detail, so here goes.
    The real reason: there is a huge area of metal in the engine
    compartment, the car bumpers and fenders (if metal) etc. It
    is very easy to inadvertently touch the bare end of a jumper
    cable to that bare metal. If the negative jumper cable is
    connected first, and you're connecting the positive cable
    to the bad battery, you'll get a short circuit with that
    inadvertent touch, powerful sparks, a possible tack weld of
    the jumper cable, and a very bad day. (Possible fire, burns,
    dead battery, ruined cables, etc.)

    If you connect the positive jumper first, the end of the cable
    CANNOT cause a short when it touches ANY bare metal in the
    car receiving the jump.

    The proper procedure:
    1 Put the cars close together but NOT touching.
    2 Stretch the cable out so the bare positive end
    is away from the car with the good battery.
    3 Connect the positive cable to the positive of
    the good battery
    4 Connect the other end of the positive cable to
    the positive of the bad battery.
    5 Connect the negative cable to the good battery
    6 Connect the other end to the other car battery
    negative, or to the other car engine compartment
    metal where you can get a good solid mechanical
    clamping spot.
    7 When finished do the above in reverse order

    The above recognizes - and mitigates - the possibility
    of sparks, but focuses on the real potential hazard:
    short circuit. I wish all this talk of exploding
    hydrogen gas had never appeared, because it hides
    the extremely more probable event of a short circuit,
    which, of itself, creates a more powerful spark than
    connecting (or disconnecting) a jumper cable to a
    battery.

    Ed



    As far as I can think about it, the last connection is the one that sparks. And that means the first disconnection is the one that sparks.

    Since you don't want that spark to be near any concentration of flammable hydrogen gas, I guess the theory that I'll concoct is you want the negative cable to be as far from that hydrogen gas as possible.

    That makes it the negative cable to be the last to connect.
    And the first to disconnect.

    Now, if the theory is to proceed accordingly, we have to decide which
    battery has the most chance of having excess hydrogen gas.

    The answer likely is neither will have any, but if we have to choose, which battery will have more hydrogen outgassing?

    (A) The donor battery (which is likely already topped off) or
    (B) The recipient battery (which is likely taking the greater charge)

    The answer seems, to me, to be neither battery will have excess hydrogen
    gas, but if I was forced to choose, I guess the battery being charged the most has the most excess hydrogen gas, which would clearly be the donor.

    All this is just "thinking it out" so tell me if I'm wrong so I learn from your expertise (the royal your that is, as everyone has something to say).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 20:46:58 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:

    Has anyone thought of that?

    Have you thought of using corncob instead of toilet paper? Corncob is
    cheap, natural and reusable. LOL!!!

    I haven't used toilet paper in years.

    There's no need for TP for anyone who is retired and lives at home most of
    the time because they can just use this which works wonders for cleaning. https://www.amazon.com/Diverter-Portable-Cleaning-Attachment-Polished/dp/B097G9BVQ1/

    And no, you dirty minded pervert (I say that jokingly because I know what you're thinking when you saw it) it doesn't go inside of anything.

    It stays on the outside.
    And it's warm water.

    For that quick and easy fifty buck investment, you never need to buy toilet paper for the rest of your life, and, better yet, you're cleaner (by far)
    than you would have been had you used toilet paper in the first place.

    These things should be standard attachments, IMHO, in all bathrooms.

    And yes, I recycle the humanure too. And the 1:1:1 NPK urine.
    Along with it goes all the kitchen scraps (nothing goes down the drain).

    Brown, then green, then wood chips, then brown, green, chips anew.
    Repeat until the closed bucket is full.
    Then fertilize outside as needed.

    And yes, the fruit trees are all fertilized by humanure/urine/scraps.
    And the process starts anew.

    Although deionized water is 6 times more expensive than distilled water,
    but one gallon goes a long way.

    I'm not disagreeing but I am pointing out the fewer the ionic
    concentration, it seems logical the water will demineralize the battery
    just as it does with a pool.

    Use deionized water if you want the best for your lead-acid battery.

    The less saturated the water is, the more it demineralizes the battery. The
    CSI or LSI is a very common issue with pools demineralizing for example.

    For a pool, we are careful to manage the calcium saturation index (often specifically the Langelier Saturation Index) to as near to the zero
    crossing point as we can, keeping in mind it changes due to a half dozen
    key components such as the temperature, pH, total carbonate alkalinity,
    calcium hardness, cyanuric acid level (for outdoor pools), total dissolved solids (particularly high for salt water chlorine generator pools) & borate
    (if any).

    Why wouldn't demineralized water demineralize a battery?

    Bear in mind I don't;t know the answer - I'm just looking at the problem
    set logically.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 20:53:57 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:

    Therefore, as I have explained before, the highest grade of pure water
    is deionized water made from distilled water.

    What happens to the dissolved carbon dioxide concentration of that "highest grade of pure water" once you open the jug & leave it for a while at STP?

    Henrys Law says it will reach equilibrium based on the partial pressure of
    the carbon dioxide in the air.

    That ionic carbon dioxide dissolves and turns into carbonic acid.

    pH about 5.6

    It's only "pure water" for an instant.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Peter on Wed Jan 18 16:53:59 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 3:46 PM:
    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:

    Has anyone thought of that?
    Have you thought of using corncob instead of toilet paper? Corncob is
    cheap, natural and reusable. LOL!!!
    I haven't used toilet paper in years.

    There's no need for TP for anyone who is retired and lives at home most of the time because they can just use this which works wonders for cleaning. https://www.amazon.com/Diverter-Portable-Cleaning-Attachment-Polished/dp/B097G9BVQ1/

    It's a good contraption, much like a hand held bidet.


    And no, you dirty minded pervert (I say that jokingly because I know what you're thinking when you saw it) it doesn't go inside of anything.

    It stays on the outside.
    And it's warm water.

    For that quick and easy fifty buck investment, you never need to buy toilet paper for the rest of your life, and, better yet, you're cleaner (by far) than you would have been had you used toilet paper in the first place.

    These things should be standard attachments, IMHO, in all bathrooms.


    It is too intimate to be shared, for hygienic reasons, unless everyone
    has a personal nozzle.


    And yes, I recycle the humanure too. And the 1:1:1 NPK urine.
    Along with it goes all the kitchen scraps (nothing goes down the drain).


    Do you pee and poo in a plastic urinal like they use in a hospital bed?


    Brown, then green, then wood chips, then brown, green, chips anew.
    Repeat until the closed bucket is full.
    Then fertilize outside as needed.

    And yes, the fruit trees are all fertilized by humanure/urine/scraps.
    And the process starts anew.

    Although deionized water is 6 times more expensive than distilled water,
    but one gallon goes a long way.
    I'm not disagreeing but I am pointing out the fewer the ionic
    concentration, it seems logical the water will demineralize the battery
    just as it does with a pool.

    A car battery is not like your pool. The electrolyte in a car battery
    should be dilute sulfuric acid and nothing else. The car battery
    generates electricity by a reversible electro-chemical process.
    Impurities will cause internal discharge and will shorten the time that
    a battery can hold the charge.

    Each cell in a lead-acid battery contains many interleave layers of
    positive and negative electrode, and many thin membranes of fibre glass
    hold the electrolyte between the electrodes. There is an air vent but
    the environment inside the cell is pretty much isolated from the outside
    world.


    Use deionized water if you want the best for your lead-acid battery.
    The less saturated the water is, the more it demineralizes the battery. The CSI or LSI is a very common issue with pools demineralizing for example.

    For a pool, we are careful to manage the calcium saturation index (often specifically the Langelier Saturation Index) to as near to the zero
    crossing point as we can, keeping in mind it changes due to a half dozen
    key components such as the temperature, pH, total carbonate alkalinity, calcium hardness, cyanuric acid level (for outdoor pools), total dissolved solids (particularly high for salt water chlorine generator pools) & borate (if any).

    Why wouldn't demineralized water demineralize a battery?


    Because a car battery doesn't work like a pool. Can your pool generate electricity? Does you pool look like the inside of a car battery?


    Bear in mind I don't;t know the answer - I'm just looking at the problem
    set logically.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 09:54:13 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 21:39:09 +1100, Carlos E.R. <[email protected]d> wrote:

    On 2023-01-18 04:35, mike wrote:
    When I looked up how to jump a car battery, they tell you WHAT to do,
    but
    not WHY, which is infuriating as it's harder to remember unless you know
    why.

    https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/
    First they say the cars shouldn't touch.
    Why?
    Then they said positive first.
    Why?

    Because of the danger of touching metal with the positive lead when the
    two negatives are connected.

    This assumes the car has negative ground, although a positive ground is
    very rare in cars nowdays.

    Once started, they say remove the negative cable first.
    Why?

    Same reason.

    Here, they say adding water damages the batteries. Why?
    https://www.uetechnologies.com/add-water-to-battery-before-or-after-charging/

    I don't know about damaging, but you dilute the existing liquid, will
    not have the proper proportions when you start charging immediately.
    Better wait.

    However, if the plates are partially out of the liquid, don't attempt to charge, fill first. The battery may be dead in any case, though.


    Also, read about bubbles below.


    And how often do you need to add water?

    You find that from observation of how fast the level goes down.

    This says to add water after every ten charging cycles?
    Isn't that like every ten days?
    And how do you know how much to add?

    There is typically "something" to show you the level.

    They say add water to the "splash plate" but what is that?

    As you add water, the level touches the rim of a "tube" and the
    reflection of the light in the water surface suddenly changes shape.
    Stop there.

    They say the six chambers produce 2.1 volts each for 12.6 volts?
    Isn't it more than that?

    Depends on charge level.

    They say adding water before charging will make it overflow.
    Does it really change the water level that much from dead to charged?

    Gas bubbles form inside when charging. If you do fast charging, they can
    be big. Those bubbles inside the liquid make its volume bigger, and it
    may overflow. A car battery is designed considering that the vibrations
    of the motor will release the bubbles fast, before they become big. A
    battery designed to be on a room has more space between plates so that
    the bubbles release easier without vibrations.

    So, if the level is too low (close to the plates) add some water, but
    not the maximum.

    And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?

    Damage.

    In chemistry, you only use distilled water, for every reaction.

    Wrong. And my formal qualifications are in chemistry.

    You do not want extra chemicals.

    Depends on what you are doing. Mostly it doesn't matter.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 09:59:03 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 23:09:56 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:

    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.

    The reverse.


    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    Nope.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    That's the operation flogging de-ionizers

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to understanding them:

    Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

    Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

    Wrong.

    Distilled water conducts electricity,

    Wrong.

    while deionized water does not.

    Separate matter entirely to which has other than H2O in it.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 18 22:39:01 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    There's no need for TP for anyone who is retired and lives at home most of >> the time because they can just use this which works wonders for cleaning.
    https://www.amazon.com/Diverter-Portable-Cleaning-Attachment-Polished/dp/B097G9BVQ1/

    It's a good contraption, much like a hand held bidet.

    I got the idea from this newsgroup something like a decade or so ago. https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Handheld-78-7inch-Shower-Cleaning/dp/B096RG4XBW/

    They had fitted a typical garden hose attachment instead of that one. https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-Star-Adjustable-Sweeper-TWIS3231/dp/B07D3TBSV7/

    I tried it but it was too heavy, especially with the ball valve attached. https://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Water-Shut-Valve/dp/B06XKR2PZX

    It was heavier than the diverter valve was designed to handle so I switched
    to this instead, which gets its water volume control from the main valve. https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Handheld-Showerhead-Vaginal-Cleaning/dp/B077RXHSC9/

    I know what you're thinking and I'm sure it's used for that, but for me,
    it's all about keeping it on the outside and making sure things are clean.

    You'll never need toilet paper ever again and you'll be cleaner as a
    result. During Covid, I was wondering why anyone hoarded TP in the first
    place.

    How does Covid make you need more TP?

    These things should be standard attachments, IMHO, in all bathrooms.

    It is too intimate to be shared, for hygienic reasons, unless everyone
    has a personal nozzle.

    Good point of view, where I live alone but it doesn't touch the body.


    And yes, I recycle the humanure too. And the 1:1:1 NPK urine.
    Along with it goes all the kitchen scraps (nothing goes down the drain).

    Do you pee and poo in a plastic urinal like they use in a hospital bed?

    How did you know?

    I used to use this but it was just too difficult to keep clean. https://www.amazon.com/Hand-held-Portable-Capacity-Leak-Proof-Wheelchair/dp/B07VMPYLQ6/

    Plus, the only thing getting bigger down there is my prostate, which is wreaking havoc with the drainage hydraulics, where I'll say no more.

    Three of these a night tend to be simpler and work better on your side
    while in bed, with one more kept by the office computer because it's
    emptied more easily into the five gallon containment bucket (which is a
    re-used Costco 40 pound jug of soybean oil, or whatever size it is). https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Urinal-Bottle-Elderly-Plastic/dp/B08DXKKC2R/

    It's really good for the environment NOT to make nitrogen fertilizer at a factory because the nitrogen in the NPK consumes inordinate amounts of
    heat.

    For the environment, I collect the thicker stuff in one of these. https://www.amazon.com/YUMSUM-Stable-Countoured-Bed-Bound-Patient/dp/B074G3P9BB/

    The only problem with any of this is keeping things clean, but consider it
    a tradeoff as I never have to clean the toilets in the house ever again.

    It feels good to give back to the soil, where I combine kitchen scraps,
    wood chips, and humanure in layers in a re-used Costco dichlor bucket with
    the cap held tightly as the bigger corvids fly around where I've kept it, I guess they're thinking a dead animal lives there or something. :)

    I don't think I waste anything as I burn all paper in the fireplace along
    with the wood in the wood-burning stove, so it's only plastic that I have
    to place in the recycling bins about once every two months per bucket.

    A car battery is not like your pool. The electrolyte in a car battery
    should be dilute sulfuric acid and nothing else. The car battery
    generates electricity by a reversible electro-chemical process.
    Impurities will cause internal discharge and will shorten the time that
    a battery can hold the charge.

    I'm not disagreeing with you as I said I didn't know from the start.
    I do know pool chemistry though - but not battery chemistry.
    At least not yet.
    But keep talking and I can learn from you which is a good thing.

    Each cell in a lead-acid battery contains many interleave layers of
    positive and negative electrode, and many thin membranes of fibre glass
    hold the electrolyte between the electrodes. There is an air vent but
    the environment inside the cell is pretty much isolated from the outside world.

    I don't think I've had to add water to a car battery in years. I guess it's done though as the caps come off (two sets of three).

    Why wouldn't demineralized water demineralize a battery?

    Because a car battery doesn't work like a pool. Can your pool generate electricity? Does you pool look like the inside of a car battery?

    You got me there.

    The pool chemistry is simple because pH doesn't matter for sanitation where
    I just pour liquid chlorine into the pool to maintain the chlorine level at least 7.5% of the cyanuric acid level. That's it for sanitation.

    For saturation, there are a half dozen factors, only half of which do you
    have any amount of control over, the other half (like temperature) are out
    of your hands so it's a game of matching the saturation index with the
    expected temperatures combined with the dilution when it rains and the concentration when it evaporates and you have to fill with city water.

    I would think battery chemistry has the same "type" of equilibrium
    constants (Pka is what we deal with in pool chemistry) though.

    Just different chemicals and more redox stuff.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to micky on Thu Jan 19 10:07:08 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 23:36:28 +1100, micky <[email protected]> wrote:

    In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 07:09:56 -0500, Mighty? Wannabe?
    <@.> wrote:

    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty? Wannabe? wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.

    The reverse.


    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to understanding
    them:

    Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

    Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

    Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water does
    not.

    Indeed it does say that, but it doesn't give much in the way of reasons. Pretty much proof by assertion.

    OTOH, my googling yielded contradictory results!!!!

    I haven't read them yet, or looked for tie breakers, becusae I think
    it's worth reporting the mere fact that it has contradictory results:

    Here is my search https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=deionized+water+vs+distilled+water+for+batteries
    and, not counting the Q&A part, these are the first two hits.

    Water that has been purified of dissolved minerals and salts through a process called deionization is recognized as the best choice for
    maintaining lead-acid batteries. Deionization eliminates more impurities
    from water than distillation or conventional filters.
    The Perfect “Solution” for Maintaining Your Lead-Acid Batteries https://www.crown.com › articles › energy-management

    vs.

    Can you use Deionized Water in Batteries?
    https://www.phlsci.com › news › articles › can-you-use-...
    Oct 12, 2021 — Whilst deionized water is not as pure as distilled water;
    it is perfect for industrial battery watering. It is a cost-effective
    method


    Plainlly, the second article was written by a Brit, or someone from the Commonwealth. As an American, I should favor the first article, but I
    don't, so I will control my patriotism and wait for more information.


    If the only ions in distilled but not de-ionized water are hyrogen,
    oxygen

    Those arent ions, they are gasses.

    and/or hydroxide ions,

    You don't get those in distilled water.

    I don't see how they would cause a probem
    in a battery.

    They aren't.

    Doesn't any water in a lead acid battery ionize into
    those very ions?

    It decomposes into gasses when overcharged.

    And how could there be other ions than those three in
    distilled water? Maybe the answer is in the articles, but I've already spent a lot of time on this thread, so I'll either wait until you guys resolve this, or I'll come back later with renewed energy.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 10:10:05 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 23:45:07 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote on 1/18/2023 7:09 AM:
    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.

    The reverse.


    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to
    understanding them:

    Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

    Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

    Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water does
    not.




    People have the wrong impression that "distilled water" is the purest
    form of water but that's not true.

    Fraid so.

    Common distilled water is obtained by boiling water and collecting the condensed steam. The condensed steam is not 100% pure H2O because there
    are chemicals in the water with lower boiling point than H2O that will
    come over in the distillation process.

    That,s not how distillation works. The lower boiling point liquids come
    over first, before the water being distilled has reached boiling point.

    The best way to get deionized water is to start the deionization process
    with distilled water because there will be a lot less impurities to
    remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.

    Deionised water is even cheaper and easier to get.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to rbowman on Thu Jan 19 10:17:48 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 01:40:22 +1100, rbowman <[email protected]> wrote:

    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 07:09:56 -0500, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    I'll see your URL and raise you two:

    https://www.uswatersystems.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water

    "Deionized water and Distilled water are both types of extremely pure
    water, but they are produced in two distinctly different ways. Depending
    on the source water, distilled water can be more pure than deionized
    water
    – but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's better. There are pros and cons to using deionized water vs. distilled water for particular
    processes, particularly when it comes to cost and efficiency."

    https://americanhomewater.com/what-is-deionized-water-and-what-is-it-used- for/

    "The main difference between these two types of water comes in the form
    of
    purity. Deionized water is the purest form of water available

    No it is not,

    and, in some
    cases, can be considered a type of synthetic water.

    Even sillier.

    However, distilled
    water does not contain any impurities

    And that conflicts with its previous claim.

    and therefore has fewer contaminants
    than deionized water."

    It's a toss.

    Nope, not in some situations like chemistry and medicine.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 10:43:04 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:27:04 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:

    rbowman wrote on 1/18/2023 9:40 AM:
    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 07:09:56 -0500, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/
    I'll see your URL and raise you two:

    https://www.uswatersystems.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water

    "Deionized water and Distilled water are both types of extremely pure
    water, but they are produced in two distinctly different ways. Depending
    on the source water, distilled water can be more pure than deionized
    water
    – but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's better. There are pros and >> cons to using deionized water vs. distilled water for particular
    processes, particularly when it comes to cost and efficiency."

    https://americanhomewater.com/what-is-deionized-water-and-what-is-it-used- >> for/

    "The main difference between these two types of water comes in the form
    of
    purity. Deionized water is the purest form of water available and, in
    some
    cases, can be considered a type of synthetic water. However, distilled
    water does not contain any impurities and therefore has fewer
    contaminants
    than deionized water."

    It's a toss.


    "However, distilled water does not contain any impurities" is definitely
    a misconception. The writer of that article is definitely babbling
    nonsense without any real knowledge.

    I am a self-made expert in distillation.

    But don't understand the basics.

    I own two expensive fractional distillation columns, and I currently own about 5 counter-top water distillers. If you know how to use the digital counter-top water distiller in an inventive way, you can do fractional distillation professionally in your kitchen.

    Fractional distillation column: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractionating_column

    When water boils, it is not just pure H2O that is coming out in the
    steam. All other minor solutes in the water with boiling point lower
    than water will also come out in the steam.

    The reality is that there arent any significant amounts
    of lower boiling point liquids in normal tap water and
    certainly none that are a problem in a vehicle battery.

    Besides that, some of the light weight microscopic impurities in the
    water will also "ride" the steam and come out of the boiling water.

    Ditto with those.

    You can do very accurate fractional distillation using a digital
    counter-top water distiller from Amazon. You can set the boiling
    temperature digitally, and theoretically you can separately a mixture of
    many solutes with differently boiling points by distilling at different temperatures.

    My own expertise is electrical engineering but I am, in a way, a crazy scientist.

    But don't understand the basics.

    <reams of stuff irrelevant to water for vehicle batterys flushed>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Carlos E.R.@21:1/5 to micky on Thu Jan 19 00:20:29 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 2023-01-18 13:36, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 07:09:56 -0500, Mighty? Wannabe?
    <@.> wrote:

    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty? Wannabe? wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.

    The reverse.


    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to understanding
    them:

        Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

    Bullshit, don't try that, you could die.

    Why can't we drink distilled water?

    Drinking distilled water creates health problems from the lack of
    essential nutrients and causes dehydration. Drinking distilled water is
    never a bad idea because the body cannot absorb dissolved minerals from
    water into the tissue.Sep 29, 2022

    What Is Distilled Water and Is It Safe to Drink? https://www.freshwatersystems.com › blogs › blog › is-...

    https://www.freshwatersystems.com/blogs/blog/is-distilled-water-safe-to-drink





        Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

        Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water does not.

    Indeed it does say that, but it doesn't give much in the way of reasons. Pretty much proof by assertion.

    OTOH, my googling yielded contradictory results!!!!

    I haven't read them yet, or looked for tie breakers, becusae I think
    it's worth reporting the mere fact that it has contradictory results:

    Here is my search https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=deionized+water+vs+distilled+water+for+batteries
    and, not counting the Q&A part, these are the first two hits.

    Water that has been purified of dissolved minerals and salts through a process called deionization is recognized as the best choice for
    maintaining lead-acid batteries. Deionization eliminates more impurities
    from water than distillation or conventional filters.
    The Perfect “Solution” for Maintaining Your Lead-Acid Batteries https://www.crown.com › articles › energy-management

    vs.

    Can you use Deionized Water in Batteries?
    https://www.phlsci.com › news › articles › can-you-use-...
    Oct 12, 2021 — Whilst deionized water is not as pure as distilled water;
    it is perfect for industrial battery watering. It is a cost-effective
    method


    Plainlly, the second article was written by a Brit, or someone from the Commonwealth. As an American, I should favor the first article, but I
    don't, so I will control my patriotism and wait for more information.


    If the only ions in distilled but not de-ionized water are hyrogen,
    oxygen and/or hydroxide ions, I don't see how they would cause a probem
    in a battery. Doesn't any water in a lead acid battery ionize into
    those very ions? And how could there be other ions than those three in distilled water? Maybe the answer is in the articles, but I've already spent a lot of time on this thread, so I'll either wait until you guys resolve this, or I'll come back later with renewed energy.

    <https://www.smacgigworld.com/blog/differences-between-deionized-water-and-distilled-water.php>


    Distillation:

    Advantages

    Removes contaminants to a large extent
    Reusable
    Lower cost

    Limitations

    Some contaminants that have the same boiling point as water is
    vaporized with water can be carried into the condensate
    Careful maintenance is required to ensure purity
    Requires more heat / electrical energy to boil the water.
    Requires large space on the counter
    Slower process



    Deionization:

    Advantages

    Effectively remove dissolved ions in the water.
    Able to regenerate resin beds
    Low-cost investment

    Limitation

    Do not remove particles or bacteria.
    Operating costs increase when used for the long term.




    --
    Cheers, Carlos.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Thu Jan 19 10:37:23 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:16:22 +1100, Peter
    <[email protected]> wrote:

    MightyWannabe wrote:

    There is a good possibility the rectifiers (diodes) in your alternator
    could fry because it is recommended that your car be running when you
    jump start another car. The rectifiers of your car is supplying electric
    current from the alternator and can overload due to the jump start
    operation.

    In the recipient car, when the engine finally starts, I was told since I
    was young that the best way to "absorb" some of the excess current in the first few seconds is for the recipient to turn on the headlights.

    This seems counterintuitive from the recipient's standpoint in terms of "using" current but the theory is that the "B" sense circuit of the alternator (which is just a coil of wire in the end) senses a "very low" battery so it tells the alternator to put out a "very high" current,
    whose
    initial burst could ("they say") fry the rectifying wheatstone diodes.

    That makes no sense because it would happen with any very
    poor battery which does eventually manage to start the engine.

    Maybe it makes sense to the electronics folks

    Nope.

    who are asked to comment.

    There is also the possibility of the voltage drop so low momentarily
    that your car stereo's anti-theft system kicks in, and you'll have to go
    back to the car dealership to enter the anti-theft code. The anti-theft
    system detects the zero voltage when it is ripped from the dashboard.

    But what happens each time you replace the battery every few years?

    The best way to change batterys is to keep supplying 12V with the original battery removed until the new battery has been connected. Thats what the
    pros do to avoid the antitheft system kicking in.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Frank@21:1/5 to Rod Speed on Wed Jan 18 18:49:03 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 1/18/2023 5:59 PM, Rod Speed wrote:
    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 23:09:56 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:

    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.

    The reverse.


    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    Nope.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    That's the operation flogging de-ionizers

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to
    understanding them:

         Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

         Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

    Wrong.

         Distilled water conducts electricity,

    Wrong.

    while deionized water does not.

    Separate matter entirely to which has other than H2O in it.

    It appears wrong to me too. Do not know where these claims came from
    except maybe somebody trying to tout their own system.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Frank@21:1/5 to Rod Speed on Wed Jan 18 18:51:05 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 1/18/2023 5:54 PM, Rod Speed wrote:
    On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 21:39:09 +1100, Carlos E.R.
    <[email protected]d> wrote:

    On 2023-01-18 04:35, mike wrote:
    When I looked up how to jump a car battery, they tell you WHAT to do,
    but
    not WHY, which is infuriating as it's harder to remember unless you know >>> why.
     https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/
     First they say the cars shouldn't touch.
    Why?
     Then they said positive first.
    Why?

    Because of the danger of touching metal with the positive lead when
    the two negatives are connected.

    This assumes the car has negative ground, although a positive ground
    is very rare in cars nowdays.

     Once started, they say remove the negative cable first.
    Why?

    Same reason.

      Here, they say adding water damages the batteries. Why?
    https://www.uetechnologies.com/add-water-to-battery-before-or-after-charging/

    I don't know about damaging, but you dilute the existing liquid, will
    not have the proper proportions when you start charging immediately.
    Better wait.

    However, if the plates are partially out of the liquid, don't attempt
    to charge, fill first. The battery may be dead in any case, though.


    Also, read about bubbles below.


     And how often do you need to add water?

    You find that from observation of how fast the level goes down.

    This says to add water after every ten charging cycles?
    Isn't that like every ten days?
     And how do you know how much to add?

    There is typically "something" to show you the level.

    They say add water to the "splash plate" but what is that?

    As you add water, the level touches the rim of a "tube" and the
    reflection of the light in the water surface suddenly changes shape.
    Stop there.

     They say the six chambers produce 2.1 volts each for 12.6 volts?
    Isn't it more than that?

    Depends on charge level.

     They say adding water before charging will make it overflow.
    Does it really change the water level that much from dead to charged?

    Gas bubbles form inside when charging. If you do fast charging, they
    can be big. Those bubbles inside the liquid make its volume bigger,
    and it may overflow. A car battery is designed considering that the
    vibrations of the motor will release the bubbles fast, before they
    become big. A battery designed to be on a room has more space between
    plates so that the bubbles release easier without vibrations.

    So, if the level is too low (close to the plates) add some water, but
    not the maximum.

     And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?

    Damage.

    In chemistry, you only use distilled water, for every reaction.

    Wrong. And my formal qualifications are in chemistry.

    You do not want extra chemicals.

    Depends on what you are doing. Mostly it doesn't matter.

    I am a retired chemist and we are in agreement.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Thu Jan 19 10:52:09 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:28:58 +1100, Peter
    <[email protected]> wrote:

    <[email protected]> wrote:
    I always did positive first. I will switch!

    Think it out first - then decide.

    I'm thinking... I'm thinking... I'm trying to think this thing out.
    I don't think it matters all that much which cable goes first or last.

    You are wrong with the question of accidentally touching
    the body etc with the positive lead when the negatives
    have already been connected. Much safer to connect the
    positive terminals first.

    As far as I can think about it, the last connection is the one that
    sparks.
    And that means the first disconnection is the one that sparks.

    Sparks aren't the problem. they happen regardless of which
    of positive and negative you connect first.

    Since you don't want that spark to be near any concentration of flammable hydrogen gas, I guess the theory that I'll concoct is you want the
    negative
    cable to be as far from that hydrogen gas as possible.

    The reality is that with the battery in the engine compartment
    with the hood up, there will be on concentration of flammable
    hydrogen gas.

    Even with the few cars that have the battery in the passenger
    compartment or the trunk, thats still very unlikely because
    the battery only produces hydrogen gas when it continues
    to be charged after it is fully charged.

    That makes it the negative cable to be the last to connect.
    And the first to disconnect.

    Now, if the theory is to proceed accordingly, we have to decide which
    battery has the most chance of having excess hydrogen gas.

    The answer likely is neither will have any, but if we have to choose,
    which
    battery will have more hydrogen outgassing?

    (A) The donor battery (which is likely already topped off) or

    But which won't be being charged unless the engine is still running.

    (B) The recipient battery (which is likely taking the greater charge)

    Only AFTER the connection has been made which allows that.

    The answer seems, to me, to be neither battery will have excess hydrogen
    gas, but if I was forced to choose, I guess the battery being charged the most has the most excess hydrogen gas, which would clearly be the donor.

    The reality is that it isnt about hydrogen gas, its about
    accidentally touching the body of the recipient car with
    the positive jumper lead before it is connected to the
    positive post of the flat battery.

    All this is just "thinking it out" so tell me if I'm wrong so I learn
    from
    your expertise (the royal your that is, as everyone has something to
    say).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 11:04:26 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:41:48 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:

    Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 10:16 AM:
    MightyWannabe wrote:

    There is a good possibility the rectifiers (diodes) in your alternator
    could fry because it is recommended that your car be running when you
    jump start another car. The rectifiers of your car is supplying
    electric
    current from the alternator and can overload due to the jump start
    operation.
    In the recipient car, when the engine finally starts, I was told since I
    was young that the best way to "absorb" some of the excess current in
    the
    first few seconds is for the recipient to turn on the headlights.

    This seems counterintuitive from the recipient's standpoint in terms of
    "using" current but the theory is that the "B" sense circuit of the
    alternator (which is just a coil of wire in the end) senses a "very low"
    battery so it tells the alternator to put out a "very high" current,
    whose
    initial burst could ("they say") fry the rectifying wheatstone diodes.

    Maybe it makes sense to the electronics folks who are asked to comment.

    There is also the possibility of the voltage drop so low momentarily
    that your car stereo's anti-theft system kicks in, and you'll have to
    go
    back to the car dealership to enter the anti-theft code. The anti-theft
    system detects the zero voltage when it is ripped from the dashboard.
    But what happens each time you replace the battery every few years?


    I can think of a simple way. Connect jump cable clamps to the car
    battery terminals and then carefully loosen and lift the terminals from
    the old battery.

    Trouble with that approach is that you can't
    usually connect the thick battery leads to the
    new battery until the new batter is where the
    old battery still is.

    Another way is to connect a 12V cigarette lighter plug into the
    cigarette lighter socket to temporarily maintain a 12V to the whole
    system from another 12V power source before you disconnect your old
    battery. You may have to power on the accessories in your car if you car
    is designed to cut off the power to the cigarette lighter socket when
    the ignition is off.




    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Thu Jan 19 11:13:03 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:50:24 +1100, Peter
    <[email protected]> wrote:

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    People have the wrong impression that "distilled water" is the purest
    form of water but that's not true. Common distilled water is obtained by
    boiling water and collecting the condensed steam. The condensed steam is
    not 100% pure H2O because there are chemicals in the water with lower
    boiling point than H2O that will come over in the distillation process.

    The best way to get deionized water is to start the deionization process
    with distilled water because there will be a lot less impurities to
    remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.

    It's a car battery. It's not a silicon based integrated circuit.
    Water is water. To a certain degree it's all the same thing.

    Fraid not.

    I don't know the answer for sure,

    That's obvious.

    but I would reason out that almost all
    tap water will be just fine in a car battery

    Some tap water is quite hard and produces
    lots of scales in an electric jug over time.

    although I don't doubt
    chlorine (or chloramines?) that they put in them might affect the
    lead:acid
    chemistry.

    That doesn't.

    They add fluorine too I think,

    Fluoride, not flourine.

    and there might be a decent amount of
    calcium carbonates

    Yes, with hard water.

    and metallic ions such as copper and phosphorous.

    Not normally enough to matter.

    But some still have water from wells for their tap water.

    I'm guessing that the minute amount of such things (having owned a pool,
    I'm aware they're in the PPM range, and PPB for phosphorous) in a car
    battery designed to last five years, won't make one bit of difference.

    Particularly as most don't add water to their car battery anymore with
    sealed batterys.

    An example of tap water total alkalinity is around 50 to 200 PPM and the calcium hardness due to calcium salts would range a bit higher, maybe
    double (depending, of course, on the amount of old shallow seas in your
    area fifty to two hundred million years ago).

    And how much limestone there is. Lots in some places.

    But distilled water is cheap and rain water is even cheaper, and, in
    fact,
    so is tap water - so since they're all dirt cheap, may as well use the
    rain
    water.

    Or distilled water given that its cheap and you dont use much.

    That's how I see it from a reasoned approach, where I'm very familiar
    with
    the scare tactics pool stores try to pull on people when they find
    something, anything, to say "oh that's going to damage your equipment."

    Same technique those Indian "Microsoft support tech" try to pull on you
    when _they_ call you and tell you to look in the Event Viewer and all
    those
    errors indicate your computer needs their expert help with ransomware addition.

    Overall, does ANYONE have ANY real data that tap water actually degrades
    a
    car batter enough for someone to actually measure the results in 5 years?

    The battery manufacturers do.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Thu Jan 19 11:01:57 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:37:33 +1100, Peter
    <[email protected]> wrote:

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.
    The reverse.

    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to
    understanding
    them:

    Â Â Â Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

    Â Â Â Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

    Â Â Â Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water >>>> does not.

    Indeed it does say that, but it doesn't give much in the way of
    reasons.
    Pretty much proof by assertion.

    OTOH, my googling yielded contradictory results!!!!

    I haven't read them yet, or looked for tie breakers, becusae I think
    it's worth reporting the mere fact that it has contradictory results:

    Here is my search
    https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=deionized+water+vs+distilled+water+for+batteries
    and, not counting the Q&A part, these are the first two hits.

    Water that has been purified of dissolved minerals and salts through a
    process called deionization is recognized as the best choice for
    maintaining lead-acid batteries. Deionization eliminates more
    impurities
    from water than distillation or conventional filters.
    The Perfect “Solution” for Maintaining Your Lead-Acid Batteries >>> https://www.crown.com › articles › energy-management

    vs.

    Can you use Deionized Water in Batteries?
    https://www.phlsci.com › news › articles › can-you-use-...
    Oct 12, 2021 — Whilst deionized water is not as pure as distilled >>> water;
    it is perfect for industrial battery watering. It is a cost-effective
    method


    Plainlly, the second article was written by a Brit, or someone from the
    Commonwealth. As an American, I should favor the first article, but I
    don't, so I will control my patriotism and wait for more information.


    If the only ions in distilled but not de-ionized water are hyrogen,
    oxygen and/or hydroxide ions, I don't see how they would cause a probem
    in a battery. Doesn't any water in a lead acid battery ionize into
    those very ions? And how could there be other ions than those three in
    distilled water? Maybe the answer is in the articles, but I've
    already
    spent a lot of time on this thread, so I'll either wait until you guys
    resolve this, or I'll come back later with renewed energy.

    People have the wrong impression that "distilled water" is the purest
    form of water but that's not true. Common distilled water is obtained by
    boiling water and collecting the condensed steam. The condensed steam is
    not 100% pure H2O because there are chemicals in the water with lower
    boiling point than H2O that will come over in the distillation process.

    The best way to get deionized water is to start the deionization process
    with distilled water because there will be a lot less impurities to
    remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.

    You don't get pure H2O by using a home water deionizer in your water
    pipe using resin beads because most of the impurities will still pass
    through the resin beads.

    You can tell deionized water is purer simply by the price. I can get a
    gallon (4L) of distilled water from a supermarket for about $1, but I
    have to go to an auto-parts store to get deionized water for about $6.

    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/turbo-power-deionized-water-3-78-l-0293003p.html

    Didn't the conversation recently happen that rain water (now that "acid
    rain" is no longer a thing, thanks to the EPA), is just as good as
    distilled water nowadays?

    No its not, because its impossible to collect rain water
    that has come off the roof without some dirt and stuff
    like bird shit and leaves from the roof, quite apart from
    what happens to it sitting in your tank between when it
    came off the roof and you get some to add to your battery.

    Sure, it's slightly acidic at pH 5.6 (if it's not acid rain, that is, as
    acid rain is pH 5.5 or lower by EPA definition someone found out), but a
    bit of weak carbonic acid (from the dissolved carbon dioxide) won't hurt
    the strong sulfuric acid in a lead:acid battery, will it?

    The problem is the lead carbonate. Not enough to matter tho.

    I'm guessing that rain water nowadays, unless you live within a few miles
    of a volcano (and you don't) or a coal-fired power plant (and you don't),
    is pretty damn close to distilled water in most parts of the country.

    Nope, because of whats on the roof and in the gutters dirt and bird shit
    wise.

    Sure rain water will have a bit of "something here" and "something there" based on the dissolved gases in the atmosphere, but so will any bottle of distilled water that has ever been open to the exact same atmosphere.

    The difference is that the distilled water hasnt fallen thru thousands
    of feet of air in small droplets.

    Someone said there are "particles" in the rain water, but I don't believe that as you can't see any when you collect it outside and even if there
    were, a coffee filter would filter them out just fine (and who says store bought distilled water doesn't have particles?).

    Doesnt help with the solubles.

    Sure, both might have particles, but I can't imagine they could matter
    given how few there would be if you can't even see them with your eyes.

    You can't see solubles.

    But I don't know.

    That's obvious.

    I'm just trying to reason this stuff out like the rest of
    you. If there's someone who actually knows what he's talking about (not
    me), then that person should set me straight before I go on with this
    line
    of reasoning.

    Wouldn't dream of doing that. You might burst into tears
    and that would be rather embarrasijng and someone might
    claim I have breached community standards.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to Peter on Thu Jan 19 11:17:27 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Peter <[email protected]> wrote

    Has anyone wondered whether the "pure" water will be "leaching" out the chemistry of the lead:acid plates inside the battery?

    It doesn't leach out of the plates, its boiled off when the battery
    is still charged when it has been fully charged already.

    Having owned a pool, all water chemistry tends toward equilibrium,

    That's wrong too.

    and
    dissolved salts (metal and a non metal) are no exception to the rule.

    There is no equilibrium involved. You presumably
    mean that the dissolved stuff spread thruout the pool.

    So the more pure the water, the more it will dissolve a bit of that
    lead:acid compound that they slather on the plates between rubber sheets.

    Utterly mangled all over again. Lead doesnt dissolve in
    water enough to matter.

    Has anyone thought of that?

    Corse the designers of car batterys have.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Thu Jan 19 11:36:05 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 03:21:25 +1100, Peter
    <[email protected]> wrote:

    micky <[email protected]> wrote:
    It had to do with accidentally ....aha it had to do with
    accidentally touching both cables to the frame of the car. Say you've
    hooked it up to the car with the good battery, and then you connect the
    negative first. Then while you're trying to connect the positive (and
    sometimes that's not easy. It has a cover or it's tucked away, or you
    can see it but can't get the clamp on, you touch the metal body or
    engine or frame of the car. Now you have both cables touching the frame
    while at the other end, at the car you are using to jump your own, they
    are connected to a good battery. Big spark.

    Well. That makes sense. So maybe my initial reasoning was wrong that the
    last cable attach will spark, and you want that spark away from the
    battery, so that would have to be the negative cable.

    However, you also said that the DISCHARGED battery is the one with all
    the
    hydrogen,

    That's wrong. You don't get hydrogen when attempting
    to start the car with a battery that is flat or can't deliver
    the current the starter motor requires to turn the engine
    over fast enough.

    so that means that you want to put the donor battery cable on
    last (because that's where the spark will be and the donor battery is presumed to have less hydrogen outgassing).

    But then you made a good point that if you put the positive on first,
    then
    anything any negative touches by accident, will spark where it touched.

    So now we have one good reason to put the negative on last and
    specifically
    the negative on the DONOR car on last by one line of reasoning, and by another line of reasoning, we have the positive going on last, presumably also on the donor car because it's going to spark.

    Which is the correct line of reasoning?

    (A) Put the negative on the donor car last because that spark is least
    likely to ignite hydrogen gases from the discharged battery or

    Yes, but thats not because of the hydrogen.

    (B) Put the positive on the donor car last because you have less chance
    of accidentally shorting the circuit

    More chance of accidentally touching part of the body of the donor car
    with the positive lead clamp.

    & the donor has less outgassing

    Which is more logical?

    A, but for a different reason.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Thu Jan 19 11:21:14 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 03:09:25 +1100, Peter
    <[email protected]> wrote:

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    You can make do with rain water or tap water to top up the lead-acid
    battery but doing it too often will accumulate too much impurities in
    the battery fluid.

    I say from the start that I'm only "reasoning" this out, purely theoretically, so while I'm sure adding tap water with high calcium carbonates will add "some" impurities.

    Your use of "too much" is what bothers me, only because I've never seen a single reliable source that tested this for the five year life of a
    battery.

    I'm sure someone tested it - but I've never seen those tests, where my assumption, without those tests, is sure, "something" will be added, but
    will it make any difference in a twenty-five pound battery designed to
    last
    only five years?

    You can make do with distilled water but that is not as good as
    deionized water, which technically should be processed from distilled
    water.

    Again I'm only reasoning this out, and I would back off on my rationale
    the
    instant someone shows me batteries being harmed by rain water, which is distilled water nowadays, despite the "acid rain" scare tactics of some.

    The Indian "Microsoft support techs" tried to pull the same scare tactics
    on me that the pool stores do, where they take a single tiny event and
    turn
    it into the explosion of the Maine in Havana's harbor.

    A responsible auto shop or car dealership should use deionized water to
    dilute the sulfuric acid to use as battery fluid.

    A commercial outfit will always follow industry standards if they're reputable (most are not, in my humble opinion - most are scammers).

    That's why you never believe anything coming out of the mouth of someone selling you a service without checking it (for example, they'll tell you
    that you "need" a fluid change when the owners manual will disagree).

    They're all scheisters in my book - and I've been sheisted by them so I
    know this for a fact that some are sheisters who can't be trusted.

    Back to this topic, how do you know that the "pure" water isn't leaching
    out all the good paste on the plates, now that it's devoid of ions?

    Trivial to test that by weighing the battery before and after.

    I'm not asking this as a challenge - as the basic logic is sound.

    What I'm looking for is a real answer to the practical question of how
    much
    could it possibly matter in a twenty-five pound battery designed for a
    short life in what turns out to be miserably inhospitable temperature & vibration conditions, not to mention discharge recharge redox cycles.

    The reality is that modern cars use sealed batterys and no one
    adds any water to them anymore.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to Frank on Thu Jan 19 11:55:02 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 04:01:45 +1100, Frank <[email protected]> wrote:

    On 1/18/2023 11:18 AM, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
    Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 10:53 AM:
    rbowman <[email protected]> wrote:
    "Deionized water and Distilled water are both types of extremely pure
    water, but they are produced in two distinctly different ways.
    Has anyone wondered whether the "pure" water will be "leaching" out the
    chemistry of the lead:acid plates inside the battery?

    Having owned a pool, all water chemistry tends toward equilibrium, and
    dissolved salts (metal and a non metal) are no exception to the rule.

    So the more pure the water, the more it will dissolve a bit of that
    lead:acid compound that they slather on the plates between rubber
    sheets.

    Has anyone thought of that?
    Have you thought of using corncob instead of toilet paper? Corncob is
    cheap, natural and reusable. LOL!!!
    Although deionized water is 6 times more expensive than distilled
    water, but one gallon goes a long way.
    Use deionized water if you want the best for your lead-acid battery.


    Think those costs are off with two different sources and sizes.

    Google sez this:

    "However, in general, distilled water is more expensive than deionized
    water. This is because it takes more time and energy to produce
    distilled water, and it also requires special equipment that not all companies have."

    When I worked in the lab we had a distilled water line to every bench
    but it was replaced by deionized water to save cost.

    Been decades since I had a car battery that needed water but I am
    hearing it is better to put distilled or demineralized water in your car radiator if needed as minerals are bad there too.

    Only if you are in a hard water area or use your own well water.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 11:46:51 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 10:20:29 +1100, Carlos E.R. <[email protected]d> wrote:

    On 2023-01-18 13:36, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 07:09:56 -0500, Mighty? Wannabe?
    <@.> wrote:

    Carlos E.R. wrote on 1/18/2023 5:19 AM:
    On 2023-01-18 05:34, Mighty? Wannabe? wrote:
    De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.

    The reverse.


    De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.

    https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/

    Two common types of treated water are distilled and deionized water.
    Here are some similarities and differences that are key to
    understanding
    them:

    Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.

    Bullshit, don't try that, you could die.

    Nope.

    Why can't we drink distilled water?

    Drinking distilled water creates health problems from the lack of
    essential nutrients

    We aren't discussing JUST drinking distilled water,
    we are discussing whether it is dangerous to drink it.

    and causes dehydration.

    Bullshit. At most it might mean you don't get
    enough salt if you drink lots of it and dont eat
    anything.

    Drinking distilled water is never a bad idea

    That's the opposite of what you just claimed.

    because the body cannot absorb dissolved minerals from water into the tissue.Sep 29, 2022

    Doesn't need to if you get the salt from fool or salt tablets.

    What Is Distilled Water and Is It Safe to Drink? https://www.freshwatersystems.com › blogs › blog › is-...

    https://www.freshwatersystems.com/blogs/blog/is-distilled-water-safe-to-drink

    Just because some fool claims something...

    Deionized water is purer than distilled water.

    Distilled water conducts electricity, while deionized water does
    not.

    Indeed it does say that, but it doesn't give much in the way of reasons.
    Pretty much proof by assertion.
    OTOH, my googling yielded contradictory results!!!!
    I haven't read them yet, or looked for tie breakers, becusae I think
    it's worth reporting the mere fact that it has contradictory results:
    Here is my search
    https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=deionized+water+vs+distilled+water+for+batteries
    and, not counting the Q&A part, these are the first two hits.
    Water that has been purified of dissolved minerals and salts through a
    process called deionization is recognized as the best choice for
    maintaining lead-acid batteries. Deionization eliminates more impurities
    from water than distillation or conventional filters.
    The Perfect “Solution” for Maintaining Your Lead-Acid Batteries
    https://www.crown.com › articles › energy-management
    vs.
    Can you use Deionized Water in Batteries?
    https://www.phlsci.com › news › articles › can-you-use-...
    Oct 12, 2021 — Whilst deionized water is not as pure as distilled water; >> it is perfect for industrial battery watering. It is a cost-effective
    method
    Plainlly, the second article was written by a Brit, or someone from
    the
    Commonwealth. As an American, I should favor the first article, but I
    don't, so I will control my patriotism and wait for more information.
    If the only ions in distilled but not de-ionized water are hyrogen,
    oxygen and/or hydroxide ions, I don't see how they would cause a probem
    in a battery. Doesn't any water in a lead acid battery ionize into
    those very ions? And how could there be other ions than those three in
    distilled water? Maybe the answer is in the articles, but I've already
    spent a lot of time on this thread, so I'll either wait until you guys
    resolve this, or I'll come back later with renewed energy.

    <https://www.smacgigworld.com/blog/differences-between-deionized-water-and-distilled-water.php>


    Distillation:

    Advantages

    Removes contaminants to a large extent
    Reusable
    Lower cost

    Limitations

    Some contaminants that have the same boiling point as water is
    vaporized with water can be carried into the condensate

    The reality is that there are no contaminants like that in the
    water used to make distilled water for car batterys.

    Careful maintenance is required to ensure purity
    Requires more heat / electrical energy to boil the water.
    Requires large space on the counter

    So do deionizers.

    Slower process



    Deionization:

    Advantages

    Effectively remove dissolved ions in the water.
    Able to regenerate resin beds
    Low-cost investment

    Limitation

    Do not remove particles or bacteria.

    Or contaminants that have the same boiling point as water.

    Operating costs increase when used for the long term.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 12:01:08 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 04:54:10 +1100, John Robertson <[email protected]>
    wrote:

    On 2023/01/17 8:33 p.m., mike wrote:
    On 18-01-2023 09:40 Clifford Heath <[email protected]> wrote:

    In case there is any hydrogen gas that has developed in the battery
    and may be still concentrated enough to burn, any spark from
    completing the circuit should be made at some distance from the
    battery. That is, but connecting the earth to some metal part of the
    chassis, not to the battery terminal itself.
    Thank you for trying to explain why they said here to connect + first.
    https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/
    Isn't there a spark no matter what cable is the last point to be
    connected?

    The chassis is (usually) negative, which is why that is the first and
    last contact point.
    I'm not disputing that since I'm the one asking the question, but
    didn't
    that article above say the opposite?
    They said to connect a negative cable last to the chassis of the dead
    car.

    The point is to first connect the positive lead to the battery positive,
    and then the negative lead AWAY FROM THE BATTERY by connecting to the
    engine metal. In that order for safety.

    After the engine starts, then disconnect the negative lead that is AWAY
    FROM THE BATTERY so any spark created at the disconnect point is
    unlikely to cause the battery to explode if hydrogen gas was created.
    Perhaps you left the jumpers connected for a few minutes while charging
    the battery which leads to more hydrogen gas

    No, because the battery doesn't gas unless it is being charged when
    fully charged already and that won't be happening with either battery.

    which makes a spark more and more likely/dangerous as time goes on...

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Thu Jan 19 11:52:28 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 09:39:01 +1100, Peter
    <[email protected]> wrote:

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    There's no need for TP for anyone who is retired and lives at home
    most of
    the time because they can just use this which works wonders for
    cleaning.
    https://www.amazon.com/Diverter-Portable-Cleaning-Attachment-Polished/dp/B097G9BVQ1/

    It's a good contraption, much like a hand held bidet.

    I got the idea from this newsgroup something like a decade or so ago. https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Handheld-78-7inch-Shower-Cleaning/dp/B096RG4XBW/

    They had fitted a typical garden hose attachment instead of that one. https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-Star-Adjustable-Sweeper-TWIS3231/dp/B07D3TBSV7/

    I tried it but it was too heavy, especially with the ball valve attached. https://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Water-Shut-Valve/dp/B06XKR2PZX

    It was heavier than the diverter valve was designed to handle so I
    switched
    to this instead, which gets its water volume control from the main valve. https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Handheld-Showerhead-Vaginal-Cleaning/dp/B077RXHSC9/

    I know what you're thinking and I'm sure it's used for that, but for me,
    it's all about keeping it on the outside and making sure things are
    clean.

    You'll never need toilet paper ever again and you'll be cleaner as a
    result. During Covid, I was wondering why anyone hoarded TP in the first place.

    How does Covid make you need more TP?

    It doesn't but when some fools started buying it up so
    they wouldn't be without it, other fools followed suit.

    These things should be standard attachments, IMHO, in all bathrooms.

    It is too intimate to be shared, for hygienic reasons, unless everyone
    has a personal nozzle.

    Good point of view, where I live alone but it doesn't touch the body.


    And yes, I recycle the humanure too. And the 1:1:1 NPK urine.
    Along with it goes all the kitchen scraps (nothing goes down the
    drain).

    Do you pee and poo in a plastic urinal like they use in a hospital bed?

    How did you know?

    I used to use this but it was just too difficult to keep clean. https://www.amazon.com/Hand-held-Portable-Capacity-Leak-Proof-Wheelchair/dp/B07VMPYLQ6/

    Plus, the only thing getting bigger down there is my prostate, which is wreaking havoc with the drainage hydraulics, where I'll say no more.

    Three of these a night tend to be simpler and work better on your side
    while in bed, with one more kept by the office computer because it's
    emptied more easily into the five gallon containment bucket (which is a re-used Costco 40 pound jug of soybean oil, or whatever size it is). https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Urinal-Bottle-Elderly-Plastic/dp/B08DXKKC2R/

    It's really good for the environment NOT to make nitrogen fertilizer at a factory because the nitrogen in the NPK consumes inordinate amounts of
    heat.

    For the environment, I collect the thicker stuff in one of these. https://www.amazon.com/YUMSUM-Stable-Countoured-Bed-Bound-Patient/dp/B074G3P9BB/

    The only problem with any of this is keeping things clean, but consider
    it
    a tradeoff as I never have to clean the toilets in the house ever again.

    It feels good to give back to the soil, where I combine kitchen scraps,
    wood chips, and humanure in layers in a re-used Costco dichlor bucket
    with
    the cap held tightly as the bigger corvids fly around where I've kept
    it, I
    guess they're thinking a dead animal lives there or something. :)

    I don't think I waste anything as I burn all paper in the fireplace along with the wood in the wood-burning stove, so it's only plastic that I have
    to place in the recycling bins about once every two months per bucket.

    A car battery is not like your pool. The electrolyte in a car battery
    should be dilute sulfuric acid and nothing else. The car battery
    generates electricity by a reversible electro-chemical process.
    Impurities will cause internal discharge and will shorten the time that
    a battery can hold the charge.

    I'm not disagreeing with you as I said I didn't know from the start.
    I do know pool chemistry though - but not battery chemistry.
    At least not yet.
    But keep talking and I can learn from you which is a good thing.

    Each cell in a lead-acid battery contains many interleave layers of
    positive and negative electrode, and many thin membranes of fibre glass
    hold the electrolyte between the electrodes. There is an air vent but
    the environment inside the cell is pretty much isolated from the outside
    world.

    I don't think I've had to add water to a car battery in years. I guess
    it's
    done though as the caps come off (two sets of three).

    Why wouldn't demineralized water demineralize a battery?

    Because a car battery doesn't work like a pool. Can your pool generate
    electricity? Does you pool look like the inside of a car battery?

    You got me there.

    The pool chemistry is simple because pH doesn't matter for sanitation
    where
    I just pour liquid chlorine into the pool to maintain the chlorine level
    at
    least 7.5% of the cyanuric acid level. That's it for sanitation.

    For saturation, there are a half dozen factors, only half of which do you have any amount of control over, the other half (like temperature) are
    out
    of your hands so it's a game of matching the saturation index with the expected temperatures combined with the dilution when it rains and the concentration when it evaporates and you have to fill with city water.

    I would think battery chemistry has the same "type" of equilibrium
    constants (Pka is what we deal with in pool chemistry) though.

    Just different chemicals and more redox stuff.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Thu Jan 19 12:11:39 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 07:53:57 +1100, Peter
    <[email protected]> wrote:

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:

    Therefore, as I have explained before, the highest grade of pure water
    is deionized water made from distilled water.

    What happens to the dissolved carbon dioxide concentration of that
    "highest
    grade of pure water" once you open the jug & leave it for a while at STP?

    Henrys Law says it will reach equilibrium based on the partial pressure
    of
    the carbon dioxide in the air.

    Its more complicated than that in reality because you wouldnt
    leave the top off after you have used some to top up the battery.

    That ionic carbon dioxide dissolves and turns into carbonic acid.

    pH about 5.6

    It's only "pure water" for an instant.

    But isn't impure enough to matter in reality.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Rod Speed on Wed Jan 18 22:06:05 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Rod Speed wrote on 1/18/2023 7:52 PM:
    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 09:39:01 +1100, Peter <[email protected]> wrote:

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    There's no need for TP for anyone who is retired and lives at home
    most of
    the time because they can just use this which works wonders for
    cleaning.
    https://www.amazon.com/Diverter-Portable-Cleaning-Attachment-Polished/dp/B097G9BVQ1/


    It's a good contraption, much like a hand held bidet.

    I got the idea from this newsgroup something like a decade or so ago.
    https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Handheld-78-7inch-Shower-Cleaning/dp/B096RG4XBW/


    They had fitted a typical garden hose attachment instead of that one.
    https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-Star-Adjustable-Sweeper-TWIS3231/dp/B07D3TBSV7/


    I tried it but it was too heavy, especially with the ball valve
    attached.
    https://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Water-Shut-Valve/dp/B06XKR2PZX

    It was heavier than the diverter valve was designed to handle so I
    switched
    to this instead, which gets its water volume control from the main
    valve.
    https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Handheld-Showerhead-Vaginal-Cleaning/dp/B077RXHSC9/


    I know what you're thinking and I'm sure it's used for that, but for me,
    it's all about keeping it on the outside and making sure things are
    clean.

    You'll never need toilet paper ever again and you'll be cleaner as a
    result. During Covid, I was wondering why anyone hoarded TP in the first
    place.

    How does Covid make you need more TP?

    It doesn't but when some fools started buying it up so
    they wouldn't be without it, other fools followed suit.



    For them, it is a logical consequence of hoarding food in a survival
    mode. What goes in, must come out.


    These things should be standard attachments, IMHO, in all bathrooms.

    It is too intimate to be shared, for hygienic reasons, unless everyone
    has a personal nozzle.

    Good point of view, where I live alone but it doesn't touch the body.


    And yes, I recycle the humanure too. And the 1:1:1 NPK urine.
    Along with it goes all the kitchen scraps (nothing goes down the
    drain).

    Do you pee and poo in a plastic urinal like they use in a hospital bed?

    How did you know?

    I used to use this but it was just too difficult to keep clean.
    https://www.amazon.com/Hand-held-Portable-Capacity-Leak-Proof-Wheelchair/dp/B07VMPYLQ6/


    Plus, the only thing getting bigger down there is my prostate, which is
    wreaking havoc with the drainage hydraulics, where I'll say no more.

    Three of these a night tend to be simpler and work better on your side
    while in bed, with one more kept by the office computer because it's
    emptied more easily into the five gallon containment bucket (which is a
    re-used Costco 40 pound jug of soybean oil, or whatever size it is).
    https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Urinal-Bottle-Elderly-Plastic/dp/B08DXKKC2R/ >>

    It's really good for the environment NOT to make nitrogen fertilizer
    at a
    factory because the nitrogen in the NPK consumes inordinate amounts of
    heat.

    For the environment, I collect the thicker stuff in one of these.
    https://www.amazon.com/YUMSUM-Stable-Countoured-Bed-Bound-Patient/dp/B074G3P9BB/


    The only problem with any of this is keeping things clean, but
    consider it
    a tradeoff as I never have to clean the toilets in the house ever again.

    It feels good to give back to the soil, where I combine kitchen scraps,
    wood chips, and humanure in layers in a re-used Costco dichlor bucket
    with
    the cap held tightly as the bigger corvids fly around where I've kept
    it, I
    guess they're thinking a dead animal lives there or something. :)

    I don't think I waste anything as I burn all paper in the fireplace
    along
    with the wood in the wood-burning stove, so it's only plastic that I
    have
    to place in the recycling bins about once every two months per bucket.

    A car battery is not like your pool. The electrolyte in a car battery
    should be dilute sulfuric acid and nothing else. The car battery
    generates electricity by a reversible electro-chemical process.
    Impurities will cause internal discharge and will shorten the time that
    a battery can hold the charge.

    I'm not disagreeing with you as I said I didn't know from the start.
    I do know pool chemistry though - but not battery chemistry.
    At least not yet.
    But keep talking and I can learn from you which is a good thing.

    Each cell in a lead-acid battery contains many interleave layers of
    positive and negative electrode, and many thin membranes of fibre glass
    hold the electrolyte between the electrodes. There is an air vent but
    the environment inside the cell is pretty much isolated from the
    outside
    world.

    I don't think I've had to add water to a car battery in years. I
    guess it's
    done though as the caps come off (two sets of three).

    Why wouldn't demineralized water demineralize a battery?

    Because a car battery doesn't work like a pool. Can your pool generate
    electricity? Does you pool look like the inside of a car battery?

    You got me there.

    The pool chemistry is simple because pH doesn't matter for sanitation
    where
    I just pour liquid chlorine into the pool to maintain the chlorine
    level at
    least 7.5% of the cyanuric acid level. That's it for sanitation.

    For saturation, there are a half dozen factors, only half of which do
    you
    have any amount of control over, the other half (like temperature)
    are out
    of your hands so it's a game of matching the saturation index with the
    expected temperatures combined with the dilution when it rains and the
    concentration when it evaporates and you have to fill with city water.

    I would think battery chemistry has the same "type" of equilibrium
    constants (Pka is what we deal with in pool chemistry) though.

    Just different chemicals and more redox stuff.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Peter on Wed Jan 18 23:05:42 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 5:39 PM:
    Plus, the only thing getting bigger down there is my prostate, which is wreaking havoc with the drainage hydraulics, where I'll say no more.



    Medical research says that enlarged prostate is a direct consequence of
    male hormone, much like male pattern baldness.

    I haven't reached a state that I have problem passing urine but I can
    sense that the passage is narrowing because it takes longer to empty the bladder.

    I have been experimenting with all sorts of herbal hair tonics for more
    than ten years now. I am not bald yet, but like every man I am thinning
    at the crown.

    Finally I come back to think about dealing with the male hormone, the
    alleged culprit of male pattern baldness and enlarged prostate. I found
    out on the internet that soybean and the artificial sweetener "Stevia"
    have female hormone effect. So I started using Stevia instead of
    Sucralose, and eating a lot of tofu.

    https://www.amazon.com/Now-Better-Stevia-Organic-Sweetener/dp/B005F9XFN0

    I also make 1% Stevia water mixture as hair tonic to apply in my crown
    area. I add 10% in volume isopropyl alcohol mainly as preservative. I
    don't know if Stevia can rot in water but I imagine no bacteria can grow
    in 10% IPA solution.

    For tofu, I buy from Chinese supermarkets soft tofu in plastic buckets
    that look like this photo:

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0360/7035/9178/products/WeChatImage_20200414153015_500x_a8743a02-1633-437e-ab22-79f27427aa69.jpg

    I empty all the water and refill with cold tap water everyday and keep
    in the refrigerator.

    You might be able to find soft tofu in small plastic flats of 4, or 6
    cubes in normal supermarket but Chinese supermarkets also sell tofu in
    bucket size plastic containers as shown in the above photo.

    My way of eating this tofu is:

    Put one cube in a 2 qt batter bowl like this

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Anchor-Hocking-Glass-Mixing-Batter-Bowl-with-Lid-2-Quart/163913120

    Cut the tofu in the batter bowl with scissors vertically many times
    without holding the tofu by hand. Then add some cooking oil and close
    the lid. Put into microwave and nuke it.

    The steam can escape from the lid so there is no danger of the steam and pressure blowing the lid off in the microwave.

    Season with anything you like, but I usually eat it with other food in
    my meal.

    It will take a long time to see results in countering the deleterious
    effect of male hormone in man's hair and prostate, but I can tell than I
    have less sex drive after two months of using Stevia as sweetener and
    adding tofu to my diet. Maybe it is working.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 15:29:23 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote
    Peter wrote

    Plus, the only thing getting bigger down there is my prostate, which is
    wreaking havoc with the drainage hydraulics, where I'll say no more.

    Medical research says that enlarged prostate is a direct consequence of
    male hormone, much like male pattern baldness.

    Doesnt explain why an enlarged prostate shows up in old age
    when the male hormone levels have clearly dropped significantly.

    I haven't reached a state that I have problem passing urine

    I dont either and am almost into my 80s. Never need to piss at night
    either.

    but I can sense that the passage is narrowing because it takes longer to empty the bladder.

    Don't get any effect like that either.

    And my PSA tests are fine.

    I have been experimenting with all sorts of herbal hair tonics for more
    than ten years now.

    I haven't bothered and have been visibly balding for more than 50 years
    now.

    I am not bald yet, but like every man I am thinning at the crown.

    I am much balder than that and it is genetic, my dad started
    to thin in his 30 and ended up quite a bit balder than me.

    Finally I come back to think about dealing with the male hormone, the
    alleged culprit of male pattern baldness and enlarged prostate.

    Don't buy that claim with enlarged prostate for the reason I listed.

    I found out on the internet that soybean and the artificial sweetener "Stevia" have female hormone effect. So I started using Stevia instead
    of Sucralose, and eating a lot of tofu.

    https://www.amazon.com/Now-Better-Stevia-Organic-Sweetener/dp/B005F9XFN0

    I also make 1% Stevia water mixture as hair tonic to apply in my crown
    area. I add 10% in volume isopropyl alcohol mainly as preservative. I
    don't know if Stevia can rot in water but I imagine no bacteria can grow
    in 10% IPA solution.

    For tofu, I buy from Chinese supermarkets soft tofu in plastic buckets
    that look like this photo:

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0360/7035/9178/products/WeChatImage_20200414153015_500x_a8743a02-1633-437e-ab22-79f27427aa69.jpg

    I empty all the water and refill with cold tap water everyday and keep
    in the refrigerator.

    You might be able to find soft tofu in small plastic flats of 4, or 6
    cubes in normal supermarket but Chinese supermarkets also sell tofu in
    bucket size plastic containers as shown in the above photo.

    My way of eating this tofu is:

    Put one cube in a 2 qt batter bowl like this

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Anchor-Hocking-Glass-Mixing-Batter-Bowl-with-Lid-2-Quart/163913120

    Cut the tofu in the batter bowl with scissors vertically many times
    without holding the tofu by hand. Then add some cooking oil and close
    the lid. Put into microwave and nuke it.

    The steam can escape from the lid so there is no danger of the steam and pressure blowing the lid off in the microwave.

    Season with anything you like, but I usually eat it with other food in
    my meal.

    It will take a long time to see results in countering the deleterious
    effect of male hormone in man's hair and prostate, but I can tell than I
    have less sex drive after two months of using Stevia as sweetener and
    adding tofu to my diet. Maybe it is working.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 15:22:43 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 14:06:05 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:

    Rod Speed wrote on 1/18/2023 7:52 PM:
    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 09:39:01 +1100, Peter
    <[email protected]> wrote:

    Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <@.> wrote:
    There's no need for TP for anyone who is retired and lives at home
    most of
    the time because they can just use this which works wonders for
    cleaning.
    https://www.amazon.com/Diverter-Portable-Cleaning-Attachment-Polished/dp/B097G9BVQ1/

    It's a good contraption, much like a hand held bidet.

    I got the idea from this newsgroup something like a decade or so ago.
    https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Handheld-78-7inch-Shower-Cleaning/dp/B096RG4XBW/
    They had fitted a typical garden hose attachment instead of that one.
    https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-Star-Adjustable-Sweeper-TWIS3231/dp/B07D3TBSV7/
    I tried it but it was too heavy, especially with the ball valve
    attached.
    https://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Water-Shut-Valve/dp/B06XKR2PZX

    It was heavier than the diverter valve was designed to handle so I
    switched
    to this instead, which gets its water volume control from the main
    valve.
    https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Handheld-Showerhead-Vaginal-Cleaning/dp/B077RXHSC9/
    I know what you're thinking and I'm sure it's used for that, but for
    me,
    it's all about keeping it on the outside and making sure things are
    clean.

    You'll never need toilet paper ever again and you'll be cleaner as a
    result. During Covid, I was wondering why anyone hoarded TP in the
    first
    place.

    How does Covid make you need more TP?

    It doesn't but when some fools started buying it up so
    they wouldn't be without it, other fools followed suit.

    For them, it is a logical consequence of hoarding food in a survival
    mode.

    They weren't hoarding food in survival mode.

    What goes in, must come out.

    No evidence that more would go in with covid around,
    so no need for more toilet paper than usual.

    These things should be standard attachments, IMHO, in all bathrooms.

    It is too intimate to be shared, for hygienic reasons, unless everyone >>>> has a personal nozzle.

    Good point of view, where I live alone but it doesn't touch the body.


    And yes, I recycle the humanure too. And the 1:1:1 NPK urine.
    Along with it goes all the kitchen scraps (nothing goes down the
    drain).

    Do you pee and poo in a plastic urinal like they use in a hospital
    bed?

    How did you know?

    I used to use this but it was just too difficult to keep clean.
    https://www.amazon.com/Hand-held-Portable-Capacity-Leak-Proof-Wheelchair/dp/B07VMPYLQ6/
    Plus, the only thing getting bigger down there is my prostate, which is
    wreaking havoc with the drainage hydraulics, where I'll say no more.

    Three of these a night tend to be simpler and work better on your side
    while in bed, with one more kept by the office computer because it's
    emptied more easily into the five gallon containment bucket (which is a
    re-used Costco 40 pound jug of soybean oil, or whatever size it is).
    https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Urinal-Bottle-Elderly-Plastic/dp/B08DXKKC2R/
    It's really good for the environment NOT to make nitrogen fertilizer
    at a
    factory because the nitrogen in the NPK consumes inordinate amounts of
    heat.

    For the environment, I collect the thicker stuff in one of these.
    https://www.amazon.com/YUMSUM-Stable-Countoured-Bed-Bound-Patient/dp/B074G3P9BB/
    The only problem with any of this is keeping things clean, but
    consider it
    a tradeoff as I never have to clean the toilets in the house ever
    again.

    It feels good to give back to the soil, where I combine kitchen scraps,
    wood chips, and humanure in layers in a re-used Costco dichlor bucket
    with
    the cap held tightly as the bigger corvids fly around where I've kept
    it, I
    guess they're thinking a dead animal lives there or something. :)

    I don't think I waste anything as I burn all paper in the fireplace
    along
    with the wood in the wood-burning stove, so it's only plastic that I
    have
    to place in the recycling bins about once every two months per bucket.

    A car battery is not like your pool. The electrolyte in a car battery
    should be dilute sulfuric acid and nothing else. The car battery
    generates electricity by a reversible electro-chemical process.
    Impurities will cause internal discharge and will shorten the time
    that
    a battery can hold the charge.

    I'm not disagreeing with you as I said I didn't know from the start.
    I do know pool chemistry though - but not battery chemistry.
    At least not yet.
    But keep talking and I can learn from you which is a good thing.

    Each cell in a lead-acid battery contains many interleave layers of
    positive and negative electrode, and many thin membranes of fibre
    glass
    hold the electrolyte between the electrodes. There is an air vent but
    the environment inside the cell is pretty much isolated from the
    outside
    world.

    I don't think I've had to add water to a car battery in years. I guess
    it's
    done though as the caps come off (two sets of three).

    Why wouldn't demineralized water demineralize a battery?

    Because a car battery doesn't work like a pool. Can your pool generate >>>> electricity? Does you pool look like the inside of a car battery?

    You got me there.

    The pool chemistry is simple because pH doesn't matter for sanitation
    where
    I just pour liquid chlorine into the pool to maintain the chlorine
    level at
    least 7.5% of the cyanuric acid level. That's it for sanitation.

    For saturation, there are a half dozen factors, only half of which do
    you
    have any amount of control over, the other half (like temperature) are
    out
    of your hands so it's a game of matching the saturation index with the
    expected temperatures combined with the dilution when it rains and the
    concentration when it evaporates and you have to fill with city water.

    I would think battery chemistry has the same "type" of equilibrium
    constants (Pka is what we deal with in pool chemistry) though.

    Just different chemicals and more redox stuff.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David Lesher@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 19:23:21 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
    rapidly charging battery.

    So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
    and disconnect at the rescue car first.


    --
    A host is a host from coast to [email protected]
    & no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
    Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
    is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to David Lesher on Fri Jan 20 07:41:53 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    David Lesher <[email protected]> wrote

    You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
    rapidly charging battery.

    There is no hydrogen when the once flat battery
    is being charged once the engine has started.

    So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
    and disconnect at the rescue car first.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Rod Speed on Thu Jan 19 16:28:30 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Rod Speed wrote on 1/19/2023 3:41 PM:
    David Lesher <[email protected]> wrote

    You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
    rapidly charging battery.

    There is no hydrogen when the once flat battery
    is being charged once the engine has started.

    So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
    and disconnect at the rescue car first.


    I real life scenario there is no danger of hydrogen accumulation under
    the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.

    There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery
    is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Lurndal@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 22:04:09 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXinIU=?= <@.> writes:
    Rod Speed wrote on 1/19/2023 3:41 PM:
    David Lesher <[email protected]> wrote

    You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
    rapidly charging battery.

    There is no hydrogen when the once flat battery
    is being charged once the engine has started.

    So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
    and disconnect at the rescue car first.


    I real life scenario there is no danger of hydrogen accumulation under
    the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.

    There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery
    is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.

    Then why do space launch vehicles use burners to ensure that any H2
    that pools around the launch site is burned off before launch?

    Far more "airy" environment than any automobile engine compartment.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Scott Lurndal on Thu Jan 19 17:48:52 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Scott Lurndal wrote on 1/19/2023 5:04 PM:
    =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXinIU=?= <@.> writes:
    Rod Speed wrote on 1/19/2023 3:41 PM:
    David Lesher <[email protected]> wrote

    You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
    rapidly charging battery.
    There is no hydrogen when the once flat battery
    is being charged once the engine has started.

    So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
    and disconnect at the rescue car first.

    I real life scenario there is no danger of hydrogen accumulation under
    the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.

    There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery
    is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.
    Then why do space launch vehicles use burners to ensure that any H2
    that pools around the launch site is burned off before launch?


    Have you actually seen a rocket launch? The launch rocket itself is a
    gigantic blowtorch which would have blown away or ignited "any H2 that
    pools around the launch site". Besides, H2 doesn't "poll around the
    launch site" because hydrogen is much lighter than air. Any leaked H2
    would have risen up into the heavens.



    Far more "airy" environment than any automobile engine compartment.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Lurndal@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 19 23:32:26 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXinIU=?= <@.> writes:
    Scott Lurndal wrote on 1/19/2023 5:04 PM:
    =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXinIU=?= <@.> writes:
    Rod Speed wrote on 1/19/2023 3:41 PM:
    David Lesher <[email protected]> wrote

    You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
    rapidly charging battery.
    There is no hydrogen when the once flat battery
    is being charged once the engine has started.

    So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
    and disconnect at the rescue car first.

    I real life scenario there is no danger of hydrogen accumulation under
    the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.

    There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery
    is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.
    Then why do space launch vehicles use burners to ensure that any H2
    that pools around the launch site is burned off before launch?


    Have you actually seen a rocket launch?

    Yes, and a shuttle landing as a guest at Edwards. Note that the SLS uses shuttle main engines.


    https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/35983/what-are-the-sparks-flying-at-the-bottom-of-ssmes-at-the-time-of-launch

    "At T minus 10 seconds, the "go for main engine start" command
    is issued by the GLS. (The GLS retains the capability to command
    main engine stop until just before the SRBs are ignited.) At this
    time flares are ignited under the main engines to burn away any
    residual gaseous hydrogen that may have collected in the vicinity
    of the main engine nozzles. A half second later, the flight
    computers order the opening of valves which allow the liquid
    hydrogen and oxygen to flow into the engine's turbopumps."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXin@21:1/5 to Scott Lurndal on Thu Jan 19 19:02:54 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Scott Lurndal wrote on 1/19/2023 6:32 PM:
    =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXinIU=?= <@.> writes:
    Scott Lurndal wrote on 1/19/2023 5:04 PM:
    =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXinIU=?= <@.> writes:
    Rod Speed wrote on 1/19/2023 3:41 PM:
    David Lesher <[email protected]> wrote

    You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
    rapidly charging battery.
    There is no hydrogen when the once flat battery
    is being charged once the engine has started.

    So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
    and disconnect at the rescue car first.
    I real life scenario there is no danger of hydrogen accumulation under >>>> the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.

    There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery >>>> is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.
    Then why do space launch vehicles use burners to ensure that any H2
    that pools around the launch site is burned off before launch?

    Have you actually seen a rocket launch?
    Yes, and a shuttle landing as a guest at Edwards. Note that the SLS uses shuttle main engines.


    https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/35983/what-are-the-sparks-flying-at-the-bottom-of-ssmes-at-the-time-of-launch

    "At T minus 10 seconds, the "go for main engine start" command
    is issued by the GLS. (The GLS retains the capability to command
    main engine stop until just before the SRBs are ignited.) At this
    time flares are ignited under the main engines to burn away any
    residual gaseous hydrogen that may have collected in the vicinity
    of the main engine nozzles. A half second later, the flight
    computers order the opening of valves which allow the liquid
    hydrogen and oxygen to flow into the engine's turbopumps."



    The person who wrote that is definitely not educated enough to know that hydrogen rises and won't stick around at the base of the rocket. That is
    the most laughable thing a person can say.

    The real reason for the flares shooting at the rocket nozzle is an
    insurance policy that in case the internal ignition mechanism failed to
    ignite the hydrogen fuel mixture, the flares will guarantee the hydrogen
    fuel will be ignited.

    Image if the hydrogen fuel mixture failed to ignite internally and there
    is no flare at the nozzle, the rocket will expel all the hydrogen fuel
    mixture while sitting on the launch pad. Image how big the fireball that
    will ensue when it does ignite by static charge or random spark one
    minute later.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jan 20 12:31:37 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Fri, 20 Jan 2023 08:28:30 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:

    Rod Speed wrote on 1/19/2023 3:41 PM:
    David Lesher <[email protected]> wrote

    You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
    rapidly charging battery.

    There is no hydrogen when the once flat battery
    is being charged once the engine has started.

    So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
    and disconnect at the rescue car first.


    I real life scenario there is no danger of hydrogen accumulation under
    the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.

    In spades when the hood is opened to allow the positive jumper lead
    to be connected to the battery post.

    There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery
    is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.

    Not with modern sealed batterys which have a catalyst that recombines
    the gases back to water and which have the metal used in the plates
    which ensure that no hydrogen is produced when they are charged.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jan 20 12:33:16 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Fri, 20 Jan 2023 09:04:09 +1100, Scott Lurndal <[email protected]>
    wrote:

    =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXinIU=?= <@.> writes:
    Rod Speed wrote on 1/19/2023 3:41 PM:
    David Lesher <[email protected]> wrote

    You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
    rapidly charging battery.

    There is no hydrogen when the once flat battery
    is being charged once the engine has started.

    So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
    and disconnect at the rescue car first.


    I real life scenario there is no danger of hydrogen accumulation under
    the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.

    There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery
    is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.

    Then why do space launch vehicles use burners to ensure that any H2
    that pools around the launch site is burned off before launch?

    Because you get FAR more gaseous hydrogen in that situation.

    Far more "airy" environment than any automobile engine compartment.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jan 20 12:37:18 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Fri, 20 Jan 2023 10:32:26 +1100, Scott Lurndal <[email protected]>
    wrote:

    =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXinIU=?= <@.> writes:
    Scott Lurndal wrote on 1/19/2023 5:04 PM:
    =?UTF-8?B?TWlnaHR54pyFIFdhbm5hYmXinIU=?= <@.> writes:
    Rod Speed wrote on 1/19/2023 3:41 PM:
    David Lesher <[email protected]> wrote

    You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
    rapidly charging battery.
    There is no hydrogen when the once flat battery
    is being charged once the engine has started.

    So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
    and disconnect at the rescue car first.

    I real life scenario there is no danger of hydrogen accumulation under >>>> the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.

    There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery >>>> is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.
    Then why do space launch vehicles use burners to ensure that any H2
    that pools around the launch site is burned off before launch?


    Have you actually seen a rocket launch?

    Yes, and a shuttle landing as a guest at Edwards. Note that the SLS uses shuttle main engines.


    https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/35983/what-are-the-sparks-flying-at-the-bottom-of-ssmes-at-the-time-of-launch

    "At T minus 10 seconds, the "go for main engine start" command
    is issued by the GLS. (The GLS retains the capability to command
    main engine stop until just before the SRBs are ignited.) At this
    time flares are ignited under the main engines to burn away any
    residual gaseous hydrogen that may have collected in the vicinity
    of the main engine nozzles. A half second later, the flight
    computers order the opening of valves which allow the liquid
    hydrogen and oxygen to flow into the engine's turbopumps."

    And the important bit is the fact that the fuel is LIQUID HYDROGEN
    which can see lots of gaseous hydrogen around the area where the
    fuel will be ignited if there is any leak at all.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Xeno@21:1/5 to mike on Sat Jan 28 14:33:36 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 18/1/2023 2:35 pm, mike wrote:
    When I looked up how to jump a car battery, they tell you WHAT to do, but
    not WHY, which is infuriating as it's harder to remember unless you know
    why.

    https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/

    Batteries should never be *quickly* recharged. If you flatten your
    battery, it is far better to slow charge the battery until it is fully
    charged at a rate of 4 - 6 amps - depending on battery size. Using the alternator to charge a dead flat battery will result in 35-80 amps being
    pumped into the battery which will cause overheating and maybe plate
    buckling - as well as gassing the battery of course. All this tends to
    shorten the battery life.

    First they say the cars shouldn't touch.
    Why?

    Starters can draw 150 - 500 amps of 12 volt DC current. If the negative
    leads aren't making a good connection, the car bumpers might make the
    perfect substitute. In the days of metal bumpers, having them weld
    themselves together is probably not the best outcome. With plastic
    bumpers, not so much of an *electrical* issue but you'll be scuffing the
    paint on them.

    Then they said positive first.
    Why?

    Once started, they say remove the negative cable first.
    Why?

    The negative cable - the last connection to be made - to the dead car
    should not be made to the battery terminal. Instead, it should be
    connected to a metal part far removed from the battery. Batteries give
    off hydrogen gas, especially when they are flat and have been fast
    charged by the jump cars alternator. The last cable to be connected is
    the one most likely to create sparks. Best not to be near the
    potentially gassing battery. Ditto when disconnecting that earth, might
    spark, again best not near that potentially gassing battery.

    Here, they say adding water damages the batteries. Why? https://www.uetechnologies.com/add-water-to-battery-before-or-after-charging/

    And how often do you need to add water?
    This says to add water after every ten charging cycles?
    Isn't that like every ten days?

    If you need to constantly add water, I suggest you check your charge
    output. Your battery is being overcharged and is gassing the battery.
    Doesn't do a lot for the longevity of the battery either.

    And how do you know how much to add?
    They say add water to the "splash plate" but what is that?

    As long as the electrolyte covers the top of the cell plates, all will
    be well.

    They say the six chambers produce 2.1 volts each for 12.6 volts?
    Isn't it more than that?

    Nope. The electrical system of a car is *14 Volts*, not 12V as is
    commonly believed. You need that voltage to charge a 12 Volt battery at
    its nominal 12.6 Volts. After charging, the battery will show more than
    that but it is only a *surface charge* and will quickly dissipate back
    to 12.6. What people don't realise is that the battery is *only* for
    starting the engine. Whilst ever the engine is running, the car
    electrical system is running off the alternator - hence a 14 Volt
    system. NB, alternators typically output between 13.8 and 14.2 Volts.
    Any less and the battery may not fully charge, any more and you will get gassing.

    They say adding water before charging will make it overflow.
    Does it really change the water level that much from dead to charged?

    Ask yourself what heating water does to its volume and you'll have
    answered that question.

    And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?

    You shorten the life of your battery.

    --
    Xeno


    Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
    (with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Carlos E.R.@21:1/5 to Rod Speed on Mon Jan 30 22:42:40 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 2023-01-19 02:01, Rod Speed wrote:
    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 04:54:10 +1100, John Robertson <[email protected]>
    wrote:

    On 2023/01/17 8:33 p.m., mike wrote:
    On 18-01-2023 09:40 Clifford Heath <[email protected]> wrote:

    In case there is any hydrogen gas that has developed in the battery
    and may be still concentrated enough to burn, any spark from
    completing the circuit should be made at some distance from the
    battery. That is, but connecting the earth to some metal part of the
    chassis, not to the battery terminal itself.
     Thank you for trying to explain why they said here to connect + first. >>> https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/
     Isn't there a spark no matter what cable is the last point to be
    connected?

    The chassis is (usually) negative, which is why that is the first
    and last contact point.
     I'm not disputing that since I'm the one asking the question, but
    didn't
    that article above say the opposite?
    They said to connect a negative cable last to the chassis of the dead
    car.

    The point is to first connect the positive lead to the battery
    positive, and then the negative lead AWAY FROM THE BATTERY by
    connecting to the engine metal. In that order for safety.

    After the engine starts, then disconnect the negative lead that is
    AWAY FROM THE BATTERY so any spark created at the disconnect point is
    unlikely to cause the battery to explode if hydrogen gas was created.
    Perhaps you left the jumpers connected for a few minutes while
    charging the battery which leads to more hydrogen gas

    No, because the battery doesn't gas unless it is being charged when
    fully charged already and that won't be happening with either battery.

    The "bad" battery will start charging when connected, and there will be
    no current limiting.


    which makes a spark more and more likely/dangerous as time goes on...

    --
    Cheers, Carlos.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to Carlos E.R. on Fri Feb 3 17:49:24 2023
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 1/30/2023 16:42, Carlos E.R. wrote:
    On 2023-01-19 02:01, Rod Speed wrote:
    On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 04:54:10 +1100, John Robertson <[email protected]>
    wrote:

    After the engine starts, then disconnect the negative lead that is
    AWAY FROM THE BATTERY so any spark created at the disconnect point is
    unlikely to cause the battery to explode if hydrogen gas was created.

    No, because the battery doesn't gas unless it is being charged when
    fully charged already and that won't be happening with either battery.

    The "bad" battery will start charging when connected, and there will be
    no current limiting.

    The last time I had a really flat battery, and jumping it didn't work
    (perhaps the cables weren't heavy enough gauge), I started it with
    another battery installed (cables semi-tight pushed-on)... then with the alternator keeping it going, I disconnected that battery, and hooked up
    the flat battery. You could instantly hear the engine bog down from the alternator kicking into high-gear. This was a 1960's car, BTW, with a
    modern 12v battery. Perhaps this isn't the hottest idea with a new car
    using expensive electronics, but it works fine on older rigs with a good alternator.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)