• What is the secret to how the sodastream works to carbonate water at ho

    From gtr@21:1/5 to All on Sat Dec 10 02:04:54 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    What is the secret to how the soda stream works to carbonate water at home?
    Why does it work in only about fifteen seconds (three to five squirts)?

    How can I replicate that squirty nozzle using typical air compressor
    fittings (like an air gun of sorts, but with that long thin nozzle)?

    I already built a simple carbonation system using a 5 pound C02 tank, a
    carbon dioxide regulator, air pressure hose quick connects on beverage
    pressure hose, and a plastic soda bottle cap drilled in the center with a
    metal tire valve locked in place (without the inner schrader valve core so
    it's just a pipe with rubber gaskets that can be tightened on both ends.

    That works to carbonate ice cold water in a plastic liter coke bottle but
    it takes about five minutes at about 50 psi or 60 psi even after squishing
    the bottle to get all the air (mostly nitrogen) out of the bottle so it's
    just carbon dioxide in the air space above the top part of the plastic soda bottle where it starts to curve inward and even after swirling & shaking to
    get more surface area of the water in contact with the carbon dioxide gas.

    I'm guessing the secret to the soda stream is that it is unregulated?
    And that all that unregulated carbon dioxide goes into a teeny tiny nozzle?

    If the sodastream is unregulated, then I'm guessing the sodastream squirts
    the carbon dioxide gas at a bit over 800 psi up to over 1,000 psi (or even 2,000 psi depending only, I think, on the temperature and amount of liquid
    in the carbon dioxide tank) through that teeny tiny nozzle.

    Does it?

    Short of taking a sodastream apart and reusing its fittings, and short of hooking the five pound carbon dioxide tank directly to a sodastream machine (which I don't have), what common air hose fitting can I find that squirts
    the carbon dioxide (unregulated?) into the bottle through a similar teeny
    tiny nozzle?

    Since I'm using car tools (such as the compressor fittings), I'll add them.

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  • From Scott Dorsey@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Sat Dec 10 17:18:46 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In article <tn1ljr$1kk6r$[email protected]>, gtr <[email protected]> wrote:
    If the sodastream is unregulated, then I'm guessing the sodastream squirts >the carbon dioxide gas at a bit over 800 psi up to over 1,000 psi (or even >2,000 psi depending only, I think, on the temperature and amount of liquid
    in the carbon dioxide tank) through that teeny tiny nozzle.

    You have it backwards. It's not pressure, it's surface area. It takes
    several minutes for a conventional soda syphon to come to equilibrium
    because the CO2 is slowly diffusing into the water at the water's surface.
    If you make a shallow and flat syphon, the surface area per unit volume
    will be much smaller, and so it will take less time to reach equilibrium.
    If you make it tall and narrow, it will take longer.

    Shaking it will make it go into solution much faster by increasing the
    surface area of contact.

    What the Sodastream is doing is making a spray of droplets so that the
    surface area in contact between the CO2 and the water is much higher.
    This is the same thing that commercial soda fountains have done since
    the 1940s. No insanely high pressures needed.

    No need to make your own. Older Commercial soda systems are pretty much available free for the asking from restaurants upgrading.

    I have no idea why this is in rec.autos.tech. If you're making and drinking scotch and sodas, please don't drive.
    --scott


    --
    "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

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  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to gtr on Sat Dec 10 10:24:04 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/10/2022 2:04 AM, gtr wrote:
    What is the secret to how the soda stream works to carbonate water at home? Why does it work in only about fifteen seconds (three to five squirts)?

    How can I replicate that squirty nozzle using typical air compressor
    fittings (like an air gun of sorts, but with that long thin nozzle)?

    I already built a simple carbonation system using a 5 pound C02 tank, a carbon dioxide regulator, air pressure hose quick connects on beverage pressure hose, and a plastic soda bottle cap drilled in the center with a metal tire valve locked in place (without the inner schrader valve core so it's just a pipe with rubber gaskets that can be tightened on both ends.

    That works to carbonate ice cold water in a plastic liter coke bottle but
    it takes about five minutes at about 50 psi or 60 psi even after squishing the bottle to get all the air (mostly nitrogen) out of the bottle so it's just carbon dioxide in the air space above the top part of the plastic soda bottle where it starts to curve inward and even after swirling & shaking to get more surface area of the water in contact with the carbon dioxide gas.

    I'm guessing the secret to the soda stream is that it is unregulated?
    And that all that unregulated carbon dioxide goes into a teeny tiny nozzle?

    If the sodastream is unregulated, then I'm guessing the sodastream squirts the carbon dioxide gas at a bit over 800 psi up to over 1,000 psi (or even 2,000 psi depending only, I think, on the temperature and amount of liquid
    in the carbon dioxide tank) through that teeny tiny nozzle.

    Does it?

    Short of taking a sodastream apart and reusing its fittings, and short of hooking the five pound carbon dioxide tank directly to a sodastream machine (which I don't have), what common air hose fitting can I find that squirts the carbon dioxide (unregulated?) into the bottle through a similar teeny tiny nozzle?

    Since I'm using car tools (such as the compressor fittings), I'll add them.

    Small bubbles! You could add a fine carbonating stone to your rig, and
    feed the CO2 in slowly.

    https://www.amazon.com/Carbonating-Stone-Barb-0-5-micron/dp/B0064OKB00

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  • From The Real Bev@21:1/5 to All on Sat Dec 10 14:16:05 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    Who cares? It costs more to make your own than it does to buy it.
    Moreover, the CO2 leaks out and you depend on the honesty of the people
    who fill the CO2 canister. Total waste.

    Fortunately I hate carbonation.

    --
    Cheers, Bev
    It doesn't matter who you vote for, the government always gets in.

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  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Sat Dec 10 15:02:21 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/10/2022 2:16 PM, The Real Bev wrote:
    Who cares?  It costs more to make your own than it does to buy it.
    Moreover, the CO2 leaks out and you depend on the honesty of the people
    who fill the CO2 canister.  Total waste.

    Making your own soda is WAAAAAYYYY cheaper than buying it in bottles.

    Leaks can be easily prevented.

    The people that fill the container are the same ones that provide it to
    every restaurant and tavern you have been to.

    My CO2 supplier is a welding shop, and their biggest buyers of CO2 are
    for beverage production or serving.

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  • From The Real Bev@21:1/5 to Bob F on Sat Dec 10 15:07:04 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/10/22 3:02 PM, Bob F wrote:
    On 12/10/2022 2:16 PM, The Real Bev wrote:
    Who cares?  It costs more to make your own than it does to buy it.
    Moreover, the CO2 leaks out and you depend on the honesty of the people
    who fill the CO2 canister.  Total waste.

    Making your own soda is WAAAAAYYYY cheaper than buying it in bottles.

    Perhaps if you buy name-brand stuff when it's not on sale...

    Leaks can be easily prevented.

    The people that fill the container are the same ones that provide it to
    every restaurant and tavern you have been to.

    REI? They were the only people around here who could do it. NOTHING
    they sell is cheap.

    My CO2 supplier is a welding shop, and their biggest buyers of CO2 are
    for beverage production or serving.

    Just buying the flavor-things and the CO2 costs more than real soda,
    plus the gas for the special trip you have to make to the CO2-supplier.

    YMMV, of course.

    --
    Cheers, Bev
    Warning -- Driver carries less than $20 worth of ammunition

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Scott Dorsey@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Sat Dec 10 22:37:26 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    The Real Bev <[email protected]> wrote:
    Who cares? It costs more to make your own than it does to buy it.
    Moreover, the CO2 leaks out and you depend on the honesty of the people
    who fill the CO2 canister. Total waste.

    I think that these are the problems the original poster was trying to solve
    by constructing a homebuild carbonator.
    --scott
    --
    "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Scott Dorsey on Sat Dec 10 18:07:56 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-10 17:18:46 +0000, Scott Dorsey said:

    If the sodastream is unregulated, then I'm guessing the sodastream squirts >>the carbon dioxide gas at a bit over 800 psi up to over 1,000 psi (or even >>2,000 psi depending only, I think, on the temperature and amount of liquid >>in the carbon dioxide tank) through that teeny tiny nozzle.

    You have it backwards. It's not pressure, it's surface area.

    It's actually both, from what I can tell. I've been carbonating water
    manually for about a decade, where I trade in my new liquid carbon dioxide
    five pound tank every five years and have it refilled in the interim.

    I tested the coca cola bottles which explode at 190 to 200 psi and I saw
    tests on the net for exploding soda stream bottles at around 320 psi, so
    the fifty psi that I have the regulator set to is safe and effective.

    It takes
    several minutes for a conventional soda syphon to come to equilibrium
    because the CO2 is slowly diffusing into the water at the water's surface.

    I have a standard CGA-320 carbon dioxide welding regulator attached to my
    five pound liquid carbon dioxide tank which I keep upright and which does
    not have an eductor (siphon) stem so it's gas that goes into the soda
    bottle.

    I generally fill the 1 liter soda bottle about 1/5th of the way with water
    and then freeze and then I fill it with cold water to the beginning of the curve which leaves about 1/5th air, which I then evacuate by crushing
    against my side and the counter before turning on the carbon dioxide at
    around 50 psi to "inflate" the soda bottle.

    Then I swirl and shake for about five minutes.

    What's _different_ is the soda stream effects the same carbonation in about
    5 seconds. All without swirling and shaking.

    So the sodastream is effectively *VERY DIFFERENT* in action!

    If you make a shallow and flat syphon, the surface area per unit volume
    will be much smaller, and so it will take less time to reach equilibrium.
    If you make it tall and narrow, it will take longer.

    As I said, I've been carbonating water manually for about a decade, where
    I'm very familiar that it takes exposing surface water to the gases.

    But my question revolves around the fact the sodastream does in five
    seconds what takes me five minutes to do.

    That's what I'm asking for help in replicating using some sort of
    unregulated pointy nozzle tool that I can attach to a regulator hose.


    Shaking it will make it go into solution much faster by increasing the surface area of contact.

    Having manually carbonated water for a decade, I'm extremely familiar with
    the reverse mentos effect of shaking, where each bubble acts as a
    nucleation site catalyst for carbon dioxide to go into solution under
    pressure.

    What I don't yet know how to do is to do in five seconds without shaking & swirling what takes me five minutes manually, with shaking & swirling.

    What I'm hoping to find is someone who works in a auto or home shop who
    knows of a fitting that is like the sodastream pin-point unregulated
    fitting, which I can attach to the end of a hose like an air gun.

    What the Sodastream is doing is making a spray of droplets so that the surface area in contact between the CO2 and the water is much higher.

    Yes. I agree. What I need is a tool I can buy that does the same thing when hooked to the 800 psi of a liquid carbon dioxide unregulated tank output.

    That's the question I'm asking of the auto and home groups.

    What "air gun" compressor tool or fitting can I buy that puts that nozzle
    on teh end of a hose attached directly to my liquid carbon dioxide tank?

    This is the same thing that commercial soda fountains have done since
    the 1940s. No insanely high pressures needed.

    Actually, I'm pretty sure from my research that the soda stream is NOT regulated. The ONLY on/off valve is inside the 24mm screw-in M18x1.5 brass valve (in addition to two small safety holes and a 10mm safety valve).

    That means there *is* "insanely high pressure needed", as far as I can
    tell. It's this insanely high pressure funneled into a teeny tiny nozzle
    that carbonates a 1 liter bottle in five seconds instead of five minutes.

    What I'm looking for is some kind of automotive or home tool that
    replicates that teeny tiny nozzle on the end of an insanely high pressure
    hose (the stainless steel hoses are rated at 4,500 psi for example).

    No need to make your own. Older Commercial soda systems are pretty much available free for the asking from restaurants upgrading.

    Easier said than done.
    If it was that easy, nobody would buy a sodastream.

    I have no idea why this is in rec.autos.tech. If you're making and drinking scotch and sodas, please don't drive.

    I'm hoping someone in the automotive or home repair areas knows of a "air
    gun" fitting that I can put, unregulated, on a hose coming _directly_ out
    of the (nominally 800 psi) liquid carbon dioxide tank.

    What I'm looking for is that squirty airgun for insanely high pressures.

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  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Bob F on Sat Dec 10 18:15:05 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-10 10:24:04 +0000, Bob F said:

    Small bubbles! You could add a fine carbonating stone to your rig, and
    feed the CO2 in slowly.

    https://www.amazon.com/Carbonating-Stone-Barb-0-5-micron/dp/B0064OKB00

    Thank you for that idea which is different from what I was thinking about
    but which might work.

    Given I've been carbonating water for a decade using the five minute shake
    and swirl method at a regulated 50 psi, I'm enamored by the five second sodastream method which shoots a very fine stream of carbon dioxide gas at
    the unregulated (nominally ~800 psi) pressures in a fine jet stream.

    What I'm seeking is that fine unregulated pointy tip "air gun" tool, but
    your suggestion might also work.

    I could put that carbonating stone on the end of a 4,500 psi stainless
    steel hose at the unregulated tank pressure and see if it carbonates the
    water faster than the five minutes it's taking now with the shake and swirl method at 50 psi.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Ed Pawlowski on Sat Dec 10 18:52:16 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-10 14:45:02 +0000, Ed Pawlowski said:

    Please tell me it is ginger ale and not root beer.

    I have heard of people drinking Jack and Coke though.

    Woodford Reserve, splash of ginger ale and a Woodford Reserve cherry is
    nice at times though.

    You can carbonate almost any liquid but what makes it harder are the fruit juices bubble like crazy (don't even think of doing it with orange juice).

    What you have to do is dilute the fruit juice with the bubbly water
    afterward, which isn't ideal, but it prevents all that frothing happening.

    Also, the sodastream literature is rife with warnings about getting sugar
    into that tiny nozzle which would clog it up if left there to harden.

    I've never used the beer keg carbonators though, but what I've been doing
    for a decade works, but it takes five minutes to carbonate a liter using
    the swirl and shake method of ice-cold water at a regulated 50 psi.

    What I want to find is a tool that I can add directly to the end of a
    4,5000 psi stainless steel hose coming out of the unregulated CO2 tank. https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Stainless-Braided-CGA320-Cylinder/dp/B0B8HBVV2Q/

    Notice that I can find plenty of sodastream adapters on the market but what
    I want is something that I've never seen on the net, which is why I'm
    asking for help from the automotive and home repair group.

    Is there a pointy air gun that I can hook on the end of that stainless
    steel hose at an unregulated nominally 800 psi that will squirt a
    concentrated stream of carbon dioxide into water to carbonate it in five seconds instead of in five minutes?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Snag on Sat Dec 10 18:41:35 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-10 14:34:14 +0000, Snag said:

    Depends on how much CO2 you buy at a time ...

    Do you know how much dry ice costs in your area for about 500 grams?
    It takes 410 grams to fill a sodastream canister but some will sublime.
    That 410 grams is said to fill 60 liters but most people say it's 45L.

    I buy mine at the welding supply ...

    I have a five pound carbon dioxide tank from the welding shop which is not
    the siphon (eductor) type and which can fill a sodastream canister with
    liquid carbon dioxide if you tip it upside down to do that refill.

    Here's a "rig" to do that, which costs under $45 dollars. https://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Cylinder-High-Pressure-Connector-sodastream/dp/B08L795VRB/

    and while I don't have a carbonation device , it
    wouldn't all that hard to build a rig to recharge the small bottles .

    There isn't any need to "build a rig" since for about $45 you can get all
    sorts of refill rigs already made on Amazon. Here's just one set of links. https://www.amazon.com/soda-stream-refill/s?k=soda+stream+refill+hose+kit

    That's for refill.

    If you have a machine shop available ... and I do .

    The above "rig" is for refill, but there's also just replacing the 14.5
    ounce sodastream canister with your five or twenty pound CO2 tank. https://www.amazon.com/Cylinder-Stainless-External-Compatible-SodaStream/dp/B086XH2FTK/

    What's interesting is every sodastream canister ALREADY comes with _half_
    the "rig" you need to attach a 20 pound (or 5 pound) carbon dioxide tank. https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Stream-Machine-Storage-Cylinder/dp/B0BDLLMY6G/

    You just remove the 24mm neck of any sodastream bottle (which has an
    integral 10mm safety valve and a couple of safety pores) and attach that to
    a M18.1.5 fitting on the end of your five or twenty pound CO2 tank. https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Connection-Storage-Machine-Cylinder/dp/B09T5PK8G9/

    That instantly converts the puny 14.5 ounce sodastream canister to a 2,250 ounce or 9,000 ounce carbon dioxide source in your kitchen.

    Most people drill a 1/2 inch hole in the back of the sodastream to effect
    that connection, where you can see some of them in this search result.

    What you need is a high pressure stainless steel 4,500 psi hose though. https://www.amazon.com/External-inches-Adapter-Connection-TR21-4%E3%80%81W21-8-14/dp/B07ZP6TY18/

    Actually I only drink on average one 12 oz soda a day . Mixed with Kentucky bourbon .

    I drink about a liter or two of bubbly a day, and the rest of the family consumes another liter a day, so for me that's 30 cents per day if I can
    figure out how to make it in five seconds per liter instead of five
    minutes.

    That's why I'm hoping to find some kind of automotive or home shop type of
    air gun that squirts unregulated carbon dioxide gas into the water.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From gtr@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Sat Dec 10 18:24:48 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-10 14:16:05 +0000, The Real Bev said:

    Who cares? It costs more to make your own than it does to buy it.
    Moreover, the CO2 leaks out and you depend on the honesty of the people
    who fill the CO2 canister. Total waste.

    I don't know where you get your math from, but it costs around twenty bucks
    to fill a five pound carbon dioxide tank (it's about the same price for a
    20 pound tank, paradoxically).

    I got my tank for free from a beer keg that the kids never returned, and I never pay for the five year and ten year inspection since I just refill it until the date expires and then I get a brand new tank in trade in.

    Five pounds is roughly around 2,250 grams of carbon dioxide, which would
    fill over five 410 gram (14.5 ounces) sodastream canisters, at a cost for carbon dioxide of around $4 or $5 per canister.

    Each sodastream 14.5 ounce canister is said to fill 60 liters but in
    reality everyone says it's only around 45 liters in practice so that's
    around $4 or $5 for 45 liters of carbonated water if my math is right.

    I don't know what dry ice costs for every 410 grams but that makes the
    liquid carbon dioxide about 10 cents per liter if my math above is right.

    How is that ten cents per liter for home carbonation more expensive to you?
    Can you please show your math?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From gtr@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Sat Dec 10 19:10:57 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-10 15:07:04 +0000, The Real Bev said:

    Making your own soda is WAAAAAYYYY cheaper than buying it in bottles.

    Perhaps if you buy name-brand stuff when it's not on sale...

    At twenty dollars for five pounds of carbon dioxide, my math works out to
    about 10 cents per liter of carbonated water, assuming NRE is ignored.

    Since I already have that carbon dioxide tank, and since replacing it with
    a new tank is free every five years, the only cost now to me is the gas.

    The sodastream canisters are 410 grams of CO2, and they say they fill 60
    liters but it's more like 45 liters by almost all accounts on the net.

    Using easy math, that works out to about 10 grams of carbon dioxide per
    liter of carbonated water.

    At about twenty dollars for about 2,250 grams of liquid CO2 (five pounds),
    that works out to 225 liters of carbonated water for about twenty dollars.

    Keeping to easy math, that's about 10 cents per liter of carbonated water. Where do you live that you buy a liter of carbonated water for < 10 cents?

    Leaks can be easily prevented.

    The people that fill the container are the same ones that provide it to
    every restaurant and tavern you have been to.

    REI? They were the only people around here who could do it. NOTHING
    they sell is cheap.

    Who mentioned REI?
    Nice stuff. But expensive.

    I do very much love walking around REI though.
    It makes me WANT to camp!

    My CO2 supplier is a welding shop, and their biggest buyers of CO2 are
    for beverage production or serving.

    Just buying the flavor-things and the CO2 costs more than real soda,
    plus the gas for the special trip you have to make to the CO2-supplier.

    For flavoring, the only thing I add is a tiny amount of "Calm" which is a magnesium citrate that gives the carbonated water a lemony type of flavor.

    I don't know what the commercial flavors cost, but I'll bet it's a lot.
    Here is a $135 bundle, for example, as my first result on a search. https://www.amazon.com/SodaStream-Sparkling-sodastream-Original-Variety/dp/B09C7ZDBRJ/

    I don't remember what the magnesium citrate "Calm" powder costs, but one
    large tub lasts a few years so I think that cost is in the noise level.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Scott Dorsey on Sat Dec 10 19:01:29 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-10 22:37:26 +0000, Scott Dorsey said:

    I think that these are the problems the original poster was trying to solve by constructing a homebuild carbonator.

    I should be clear that I'm looking for something in the home or auto shop
    that isn't anything I've ever seen before - but you may have seen it.

    That's why I'm asking for a pointy air gun, similar to the one that comes
    out of a sodastream bottle, that I can use to carbonate water in five
    seconds (like a sodastream does) when it takes me five minutes manually.

    There's no doubt I can buy a sodastream and easily retrofit my carbon
    dioxide tank onto the back (since every sodastream M1.5x18 screwtop
    canister, when cannibalized, comes with the perfect sodastream valve!) https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Stream-Machine-Storage-Cylinder/dp/B0BDLLMY6G/

    I would buy a 60 inch stainless steel 4,500 psi hose and hook it to the
    CGA320 of the unregulated carbon dioxide tank like this hose does. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZP6TY18/

    But on the other end, instead of a sodastream nozzle, what I want is some
    kind of pointy air gun that shoots the carbon dioxide gas at insanely high pressure (just like the sodastream unit does).

    The goal would be to carbonate a liter of cold water in five seconds at 800
    psi instead of five minutes that it's taking me today at 50 psi.

    I already tested many soda bottles which explode at more than 190 psi and I know (from the Internet) that a sodastream bottle will explode at 320 psi,
    so what we have to do is shoot the 800 psi into the water in short bursts.

    All I'm asking of the home repair and auto repair group is for an "air gun" that has a pointy tip that can shoot that air into an enclosed plastic
    bottle at 800 psi.

    I've never seen that tool but maybe you have?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul in Houston TX@21:1/5 to gtr on Sat Dec 10 22:30:08 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    gtr wrote:
    What is the secret to how the soda stream works to carbonate water at home? Why does it work in only about fifteen seconds (three to five squirts)?

    How can I replicate that squirty nozzle using typical air compressor
    fittings (like an air gun of sorts, but with that long thin nozzle)?
    (snip)

    This is my guess: Think about a CO2 gun. Pulling the trigger does not
    empty the entire cartridge. The needed CO2 fills a known volume. The
    volume has check valves in front and behind the volume. When you pull
    the trigger it opens the forward check valve causing the CO2 to go down
    the barrel. Since the pressure is now less than the cartridge it causes
    the cartridge check valve to close until some other action causes it to
    open (moving the lever on the gun or the handle or button on the SodaSteam.
    If I were to make a soda device I would use a small pipe that is
    inserted into the liquid so that the instantaneous release of the
    calculated volume would be injected into the liquid causing the liquid
    to swirl and foam. Use of electrical solenoid valves would be tempting.
    The volume would have to be carefully calculated. It would not be
    much, just a few CC's. You could probably figure it out from the max absorption of CO2 in water at a certain temp and pressure.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Paul in Houston TX on Sun Dec 11 09:04:18 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-10 20:30:08 +0000, Paul in Houston TX said:

    This is my guess:

    Thank you for these ideas as I first have to figure out how the sodastream works, in order to replicate not only the nozzle but the pressure used.

    My original guess was that the sodastream is regulated, but almost
    everything on the net says a sodastream has no regulator - so it appears
    that the CO2, surprisingly so, is nominally injected at 870 psi (68C/154F).

    Given a 1L coke bottle will burst at just over 190 psi (ask me how I know this), and given even the sodastream bottles will burst at about 320 psi,
    the sodastream seems to incorporate a pressure overflow which is heard and
    felt as a burp when the requisite head pressure is acheieved in the bottle.

    I'm guessing that burp head pressure relief valve on the sodastream is set
    to the order of somewhere around 25 psi to not much more than that I think.

    Think about a CO2 gun. Pulling the trigger does not
    empty the entire cartridge.

    I don't have any experience with a CO2 gun, but that brings up a new idea
    that maybe there is a CO2 gun out there that will do what sodastream does?

    The needed CO2 fills a known volume. The
    volume has check valves in front and behind the volume. When you pull
    the trigger it opens the forward check valve causing the CO2 to go down
    the barrel.

    It's a good idea to maybe approach a solution by injecting a known volume.

    I have nothing against the idea of injecting a known volume of CO2 since it makes perfect sense to approach it that way - but - I think the sodastream volume is only dependent on two things, one of which is how long you hold
    the button down, and the other is the burp overflow pressure (see above).

    As far as I can tell from Internet searches, when you press the sodastream button down, all it does is depress the valve inside the canister which
    lets the carbon dioxide gas at the top of the canister vent into the water.

    Since the pressure is now less than the cartridge it causes
    the cartridge check valve to close until some other action causes it to
    open (moving the lever on the gun or the handle or button on the SodaSteam.

    I think that's a perfectly practical known-volume method of CO2 insertion,
    but there's nothing I can find that shows the sodastream using that method directly.

    Of course, the sodastream manual says to use short bursts, which itself
    causes a known volume to swirl inside the container, and the sodastream
    says to stop when the headspace overflow pressure valve bursts with a burp.

    If I were to make a soda device I would use a small pipe that is
    inserted into the liquid so that the instantaneous release of the
    calculated volume would be injected into the liquid causing the liquid
    to swirl and foam.

    I would do the same except that you don't want the foam.
    The suggested carbonating stones appear to do just that.

    But paradoxically, the sodastream seems to inject the carbon dioxide at a millimeter or two ABOVE the water surface! Why? I don't know. But it works.

    Use of electrical solenoid valves would be tempting.

    There is a sodastream model that is fully automatic & requires 120VAC.

    The volume would have to be carefully calculated.

    I think the way the sodastream handles the volume is by the burp pressure.

    It would not be much, just a few CC's.

    Amounts for a gas (even for a dissolved gas perhaps?) aren't really
    usefully measured in cc's but in weight due to inevitable pressure & temperature changes affecting the volume (pv=nrt stuff from school).

    You could probably figure it out from the max
    absorption of CO2 in water at a certain temp and pressure.

    Since a 410 gram sodastream canister is widely reported to fill 45 liters
    in practice, it's just a gram under 10 grams of carbon dioxide per liter,
    maybe even as much as 2 grams under 10 grams due to inevitable waste.

    The question is where to get that air gun that will have a pointy tip?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From gtr@21:1/5 to bruce bowser on Sun Dec 11 08:26:53 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-10 16:26:55 +0000, bruce bowser said:

    What is the secret to how the sodastream works to carbonate water at home?

    Go to where their factory is and ask around.

    I've been "doing that" by scouring the Internet for how the sodastream
    works, which I think I've figured out that it uses completely unregulated
    short bursts of (nominally 870 psi 68C/154F) CO2 gas which achieves in
    seconds a magical amount of surface area contact inside a one liter bottle. https://www.glaciertanks.com/carbonation.html

    What I'm seeking is a tool that might be lying around a home or auto shop
    that is a "gun" that attaches to a stainless steel high pressure hose which
    is itself attached to the unregulated carbon dioxide tank. https://www.zahmnagel.com/product-category/series-16000/

    While the sodastream uses a pinpoint tip as the gun barrel, someone
    suggested a ten dollar Amazon supplied "carbonation stone" as the barrel. https://www.amazon.com/Carbonating-Stone-Barb-0-5-micron/dp/B0064OKB00

    Looking up carbonation tools, I find they "typically" cost over a hundred bucks, so there must be a lot to them that I don't yet understand. https://www.glaciertanks.com/tank-systems/tank-accessories/carbonation-stones.html

    What's the difference between a five hundred dollar carbonation stone and a
    ten dollar carbonation stone in terms of what matters for what I'm trying? https://craftkettle.com/collections/carbonation-stones

    Can one of these carbonation stones fit into a home/auto shop air gun? https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homebrewing-Winemaking-Supplies-12184/dp/B0064OKBXM

    I've never used a carbonation stone, but it seems to be a slow process. https://www.midwestsupplies.com/blogs/bottled-knowledge/how-do-i-carbonate-using-a-carbonating-stone

    What I really want is a home/auto shop airgun with a very pointy tip!
    That's why I'm asking here for your help.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Dorsey@21:1/5 to [email protected] on Sun Dec 11 17:24:54 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In article <tn50c1$1vi8k$[email protected]>, gtr <[email protected]> wrote:

    What I really want is a home/auto shop airgun with a very pointy tip!
    That's why I'm asking here for your help.

    This is not some exotic technology. Look at the soda fountain at your
    local McDonalds, it also does exactly the same thing. Gas coming in at
    a few bar, not at crazy high pressures, going into a small jet which
    accepts water coming directly from the city mains and spits out soda
    water instantly in realtime. (There is also a venturi gadget which
    pulls syrup from the bag and mixes it in; this makes gas pressure critical since changing the air pressure changes the mixing ratio). No more pressurized Cornelius canisters, just bags with negative pressure.
    Just buy soda fountain hardware because it does exactly what you want.
    --scott
    --
    "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to gtr on Sun Dec 11 09:37:51 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/11/2022 8:26 AM, gtr wrote:
    On 2022-12-10 16:26:55 +0000, bruce bowser said:

    What is the secret to how the sodastream works to carbonate water at
    home?

    Go to where their factory is and ask around.

    I've been "doing that" by scouring the Internet for how the sodastream
    works, which I think I've figured out that it uses completely unregulated short bursts of (nominally 870 psi 68C/154F) CO2 gas which achieves in seconds a magical amount of surface area contact inside a one liter bottle. https://www.glaciertanks.com/carbonation.html

    What I'm seeking is a tool that might be lying around a home or auto shop that is a "gun" that attaches to a stainless steel high pressure hose which is itself attached to the unregulated carbon dioxide tank. https://www.zahmnagel.com/product-category/series-16000/

    While the sodastream uses a pinpoint tip as the gun barrel, someone
    suggested a ten dollar Amazon supplied "carbonation stone" as the barrel. https://www.amazon.com/Carbonating-Stone-Barb-0-5-micron/dp/B0064OKB00

    Looking up carbonation tools, I find they "typically" cost over a hundred bucks, so there must be a lot to them that I don't yet understand. https://www.glaciertanks.com/tank-systems/tank-accessories/carbonation-stones.html


    What's the difference between a five hundred dollar carbonation stone and a ten dollar carbonation stone in terms of what matters for what I'm trying? https://craftkettle.com/collections/carbonation-stones

    The big ones are for production quantities of beer. The $10 one is
    intended for homebrewing in corny kegs, operating at way lower pressures.


    Can one of these carbonation stones fit into a home/auto shop air gun? https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homebrewing-Winemaking-Supplies-12184/dp/B0064OKBXM

    They are intended for use at low pressures/flows. You can easily attach
    them to CO2 supply tubing with or without hose clamps at reasonable
    regulated pressures.


    I've never used a carbonation stone, but it seems to be a slow process. https://www.midwestsupplies.com/blogs/bottled-knowledge/how-do-i-carbonate-using-a-carbonating-stone


    What I really want is a home/auto shop airgun with a very pointy tip!
    That's why I'm asking here for your help.

    Easiest solution would be to take apart an old sodastream.

    Pressure washer nozzles or carburetor jets are designed for liquids, and
    are probably way to big, but you could research those.

    For carbonating quickly in a soda bottle, the carbonating stone would be slower, but way easier to acquire.

    Get a corny keg, appropriate hoses with fittings, and you can have 5
    gallons, or whatever size corny you get, of carbonated water always at
    hand. But then, you need a cooler to store it in.

    I just found this, but still probably way too big.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuj6_RC9sKo

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul in Houston TX@21:1/5 to gtr on Sun Dec 11 15:10:07 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    gtr wrote:

    Looking up carbonation tools, I find they "typically" cost over a hundred bucks, so there must be a lot to them that I don't yet understand. https://www.glaciertanks.com/tank-systems/tank-accessories/carbonation-stones.html

    What's the difference between a five hundred dollar carbonation stone and a ten dollar carbonation stone in terms of what matters for what I'm trying? https://craftkettle.com/collections/carbonation-stones

    Can one of these carbonation stones fit into a home/auto shop air gun? https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homebrewing-Winemaking-Supplies-12184/dp/B0064OKBXM

    I've never used a carbonation stone, but it seems to be a slow process. https://www.midwestsupplies.com/blogs/bottled-knowledge/how-do-i-carbonate-using-a-carbonating-stone

    I would think that a carbonation stone would take forever.
    Subjecting it to more than about 3 psi would blow it to bits.
    Ever have a fish tank with an aerator stone?
    Perhaps 20, or 50, or 100 stones at 3 psi would work quickly? idk.

    Look closely at the SodaSteam photo that shows the initial injection of
    the high pressure CO2 stream into the water. It shoots CO2 down several
    inches into the water. I bet that the water level has to be exact in
    order for it to work correctly.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From The Real Bev@21:1/5 to gtr on Sun Dec 11 14:05:57 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/10/22 7:10 PM, gtr wrote:
    On 2022-12-10 15:07:04 +0000, The Real Bev said:

    Making your own soda is WAAAAAYYYY cheaper than buying it in bottles.

    Perhaps if you buy name-brand stuff when it's not on sale...

    At twenty dollars for five pounds of carbon dioxide, my math works out to about 10 cents per liter of carbonated water, assuming NRE is ignored.

    Since I already have that carbon dioxide tank, and since replacing it with
    a new tank is free every five years, the only cost now to me is the gas.

    The sodastream canisters are 410 grams of CO2, and they say they fill 60 liters but it's more like 45 liters by almost all accounts on the net.

    Using easy math, that works out to about 10 grams of carbon dioxide per
    liter of carbonated water.

    At about twenty dollars for about 2,250 grams of liquid CO2 (five pounds), that works out to 225 liters of carbonated water for about twenty dollars.

    I regard carbonated water as a negative. I'm willing to drink some
    brands of root bear that don't have much carbonation, but it would be
    way better flat. I assume that people want some sort of flavored
    carbonated beverage (like Coke or Pepsi) rather than just plain bubbly
    water, which I find disgusting -- but not as bad as tonic water. I'm apparently in a minority.

    Hubby was a Pepsi addict for decades. Then Coke. Then Shasta. All
    sugar-free diet colas. He finally broke the habit.

    Keeping to easy math, that's about 10 cents per liter of carbonated water. Where do you live that you buy a liter of carbonated water for < 10 cents?

    I've never priced the stuff.

    Leaks can be easily prevented.

    The people that fill the container are the same ones that provide it to
    every restaurant and tavern you have been to.

    REI? They were the only people around here who could do it. NOTHING
    they sell is cheap.

    Who mentioned REI?
    Nice stuff. But expensive.

    I did, because they're the only people I found within a reasonable
    distance who would sell CO2 in small quantities.

    I do very much love walking around REI though.
    It makes me WANT to camp!

    I did find a bargain there: those plastic buckle-like things with
    springy ears. I also got REI ski gloves at a yard sale maybe 5 years ago.

    Have you by any chance seen 'A Walk In The Woods' with Redford? He goes
    to an REI. His reaction to the prices is exactly right. A fine movie.

    My CO2 supplier is a welding shop, and their biggest buyers of CO2 are
    for beverage production or serving.

    Just buying the flavor-things and the CO2 costs more than real soda,
    plus the gas for the special trip you have to make to the CO2-supplier.

    For flavoring, the only thing I add is a tiny amount of "Calm" which is a magnesium citrate that gives the carbonated water a lemony type of flavor.

    That would make a significant difference. I suspect that the Walmart-equivalent of Crystal Light powder would do as well and gives
    you additional flavor choices.

    I don't know what the commercial flavors cost, but I'll bet it's a lot.
    Here is a $135 bundle, for example, as my first result on a search. https://www.amazon.com/SodaStream-Sparkling-sodastream-Original-Variety/dp/B09C7ZDBRJ/

    I don't remember what the magnesium citrate "Calm" powder costs, but one large tub lasts a few years so I think that cost is in the noise level.

    Isn't that a laxative? ... Yeah, I remember taking it before a
    colonoscopy. Ew.

    --
    Cheers, Bev
    Polish loan sharks: they loan you money and then skip town.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From gtr@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Sun Dec 11 15:16:08 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-11 22:05:57 +0000, The Real Bev said:


    I regard carbonated water as a negative.

    Water out of the tap tastes good.
    Water out of the tap with bubbles, tastes better.
    Water out of the tap with bubbles & magnesium citrate tastes good.

    You have to let it sit a bit though, maybe a day or two, to get the full
    acid tangy flavor that comes from carbon dioxide creating carbonic acid.

    I don't remember what the magnesium citrate "Calm" powder costs, but one
    large tub lasts a few years so I think that cost is in the noise level.

    Isn't that a laxative? ... Yeah, I remember taking it before a
    colonoscopy. Ew.

    Saying magnesium citrate is laxative is like saying apples are poisonous.

    Sure, if you consume huge amounts, it's a laxative.
    Just as apples (and many other fruits) contain cyanide.

    But the Calm is so bitter in even quarter spoonful quantities, you will
    only add a pinch to a liter of soda to get that slightly lemony flavor.

    Nonetheless, looking up the prices, here it's twenty dollars a pound. https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Vitality-Anti-Stress-Supplement-Raspberry/dp/B00BPUY3W0

    I don't know how long it lasts, but it's at least a year, maybe two or
    three years, as I don't recall ever buying it more than that one time.

    I'm told it's the same stuff in alka seltzer but I never checked that.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Sun Dec 11 16:57:16 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/11/2022 2:05 PM, The Real Bev wrote:
    On 12/10/22 7:10 PM, gtr wrote:
    On 2022-12-10 15:07:04 +0000, The Real Bev said:

    Making your own soda is WAAAAAYYYY cheaper than buying it in bottles.

    Perhaps if you buy name-brand stuff when it's not on sale...

    At twenty dollars for five pounds of carbon dioxide, my math works out to
    about 10 cents per liter of carbonated water, assuming NRE is ignored.

    Since I already have that carbon dioxide tank, and since replacing it
    with
    a new tank is free every five years, the only cost now to me is the gas.

    The sodastream canisters are 410 grams of CO2, and they say they fill 60
    liters but it's more like 45 liters by almost all accounts on the net.

    Using easy math, that works out to about 10 grams of carbon dioxide per
    liter of carbonated water.

    At about twenty dollars for about 2,250 grams of liquid CO2 (five
    pounds),
    that works out to 225 liters of carbonated water for about twenty
    dollars.

    I regard carbonated water as a negative.  I'm willing to drink some
    brands of root bear that don't have much carbonation, but it would be
    way better flat.  I assume that people want some sort of flavored
    carbonated beverage (like Coke or Pepsi) rather than just plain bubbly
    water, which I find disgusting -- but not as bad as tonic water.  I'm apparently in a minority.

    Hubby was a Pepsi addict for decades.  Then Coke.  Then Shasta. All sugar-free diet colas.  He finally broke the habit.

    Keeping to easy math, that's about 10 cents per liter of carbonated
    water.
    Where do you live that you buy a liter of carbonated water for < 10
    cents?

    I've never priced the stuff.

    Leaks can be easily prevented.

    The people that fill the container are the same ones that provide it to >>>> every restaurant and tavern you have been to.

    REI?  They were the only people around here who could do it.  NOTHING
    they sell is cheap.

    Who mentioned REI?
    Nice stuff. But expensive.

    I did, because they're the only people I found within a reasonable
    distance  who would sell CO2 in small quantities.

    I do very much love walking around REI though.
    It makes me WANT to camp!

    I did find a bargain there:  those plastic buckle-like things with
    springy ears.  I also got REI ski gloves at a yard sale maybe 5 years ago.

    Have you by any chance seen 'A Walk In The Woods' with Redford?  He goes
    to an REI.  His reaction to the prices is exactly right.  A fine movie.

    My CO2 supplier is a welding shop, and their biggest buyers of CO2 are >>>> for beverage production or serving.

    Just buying the flavor-things and the CO2 costs more than real soda,
    plus the gas for the special trip you have to make to the CO2-supplier.

    For flavoring, the only thing I add is a tiny amount of "Calm" which is a
    magnesium citrate that gives the carbonated water a lemony type of
    flavor.

    That would make a significant difference.  I suspect that the Walmart-equivalent of Crystal Light powder would do as well and gives
    you additional flavor choices.

    There are dozens of flavors of "coffee" syrup available for ~$5/qt at
    Costco and many other stores.


    I don't know what the commercial flavors cost, but I'll bet it's a lot.
    Here is a $135 bundle, for example, as my first result on a search.
    https://www.amazon.com/SodaStream-Sparkling-sodastream-Original-Variety/dp/B09C7ZDBRJ/


    I don't remember what the magnesium citrate "Calm" powder costs, but one
    large tub lasts a few years so I think that cost is in the noise level.

    Isn't that a laxative? ... Yeah, I remember taking it before a
    colonoscopy.  Ew.


    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to Paul in Houston TX on Sun Dec 11 16:57:29 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/11/2022 1:10 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
    gtr wrote:

    Looking up carbonation tools, I find they "typically" cost over a hundred
    bucks, so there must be a lot to them that I don't yet understand.
    https://www.glaciertanks.com/tank-systems/tank-accessories/carbonation-stones.html

    What's the difference between a five hundred dollar carbonation stone
    and a
    ten dollar carbonation stone in terms of what matters for what I'm
    trying?
    https://craftkettle.com/collections/carbonation-stones

    Can one of these carbonation stones fit into a home/auto shop air gun?
    https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homebrewing-Winemaking-Supplies-12184/dp/B0064OKBXM


    I've never used a carbonation stone, but it seems to be a slow process.
    https://www.midwestsupplies.com/blogs/bottled-knowledge/how-do-i-carbonate-using-a-carbonating-stone


    I would think that a carbonation stone would take forever.
    Subjecting it to more than about 3 psi would blow it to bits.

    The brewing "stones" are stainless steel. I hit mine with 50PSI without
    damage. I'm sure they can handle much more. Not so for the plastic
    tubing going to mine.


    Ever have a fish tank with an aerator stone?
    Perhaps 20, or 50, or 100 stones at 3 psi would work quickly?  idk.

    Look closely at the SodaSteam photo that shows the initial injection of
    the high pressure CO2 stream into the water.  It shoots CO2 down several inches into the water.  I bet that the water level has to be exact in
    order for it to work correctly.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Bob F on Mon Dec 12 07:40:52 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-12 00:57:29 +0000, Bob F said:

    The brewing "stones" are stainless steel. I hit mine with 50PSI without damage. I'm sure they can handle much more. Not so for the plastic
    tubing going to mine.

    Thanks for the information that the brewing stones are stainless steel,
    where these three hundred dollar ones say they're "316L" material. https://craftkettle.com/collections/carbonation-stones/products/14-0-in-carbonation-stone-assembly-316l-w-3-0-in-tri-clamp-adapter

    This one says it's 2 micron porosity made out of "sintered stainless steel SS316" on a "Stainless steel 316" body. https://www.glaciertanks.com/tank-systems/tank-accessories/carbonation-stones.html

    These are either "ceramic" or "stainless steel" (maybe both?). https://www.zahmnagel.com/product-category/series-16000/

    This Amazon listing says it's "304 stainless steel". https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09H5PMWSW/

    However, most on Amazon just say "stainless" but it's all probably fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MD11QFW/

    This one is 1/2 micron porosity so the range is from there to 2 microns https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KK7873H/

    I started off looking for an air gun that blasts unregulated 800 psi
    gas in short bursts just a millimeter above the water level, but if I can't find that, the carbonating stone stuck inside the water might work too.

    I don't know how long it will take though, as the typical use of these carbonating stones appears to be at low PSI for long periods of time.

    Thank you also for letting me know that 50 psi is no problem for these carbonating stones, where I wonder if they'll handle short bursts of unregulated 800 psi to replicate what the sodastream does in some way.

    Probably a carbonating stone needs to be done slowly whereas the air gun
    bursts will work quickly - which is essentially the whole objective.

    My choices seem to be:
    a. The current fill-the-headspace-and-shake method takes five minutes.
    b. I'm assuming an immersed carbonating stone would cut that time down.
    c. But better yet would be the five second 800 psi airgun injector.

    The carbonation stones are so cheap I'm going to get a few to test.
    But I'm still looking for a pointy thing to inject the gas at pressure.

    I might be able to find a pointy tip of steel or plastic that I can mount
    in the cap of the soda bottle and then use a quarter turn valve (a button
    would be better but I've never seen them for air compressors) in short
    bursts.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Bob F on Mon Dec 12 07:47:33 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-11 16:57:16 +0000, Bob F said:

    There are dozens of flavors of "coffee" syrup available for ~$5/qt at
    Costco and many other stores.

    Thanks for that idea of flavorings, where I have nothing against flavors
    except the cost, but if they are inexpensive, then they may work out good.

    Here's a Costco selection I just found based on your suggestion above. https://www.costcobusinessdelivery.com/flavored-syrups.html

    I looked up what's in Alka Seltzer and it's citric acid, which itself might
    be what makes the magnesium citrate taste slightly lemony.

    When the Calm magnesium Citrate runs out I might try a pound or two of
    these citric acid powders which are about eight dollars a pound. https://www.amazon.com/Milliard-Citric-Acid-Pound-VERIFIED/dp/B00EYFKM32/ https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/citric-acid-powders

    What do people normally use citric acid for that they need this much?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to gtr on Mon Dec 12 10:18:26 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/12/2022 7:47 AM, gtr wrote:
    On 2022-12-11 16:57:16 +0000, Bob F said:

    There are dozens of flavors of "coffee" syrup available for ~$5/qt at
    Costco and many other stores.

    Thanks for that idea of flavorings, where I have nothing against flavors except the cost, but if they are inexpensive, then they may work out good.

    Here's a Costco selection I just found based on your suggestion above. https://www.costcobusinessdelivery.com/flavored-syrups.html

    I use 1-2 teaspoons in a 24 oz cup of soda water, so they are very
    cheap. Just a little flavor compared to commercial sodas.


    I looked up what's in Alka Seltzer and it's citric acid, which itself might be what makes the magnesium citrate taste slightly lemony.

    When the Calm magnesium Citrate runs out I might try a pound or two of
    these citric acid powders which are about eight dollars a pound. https://www.amazon.com/Milliard-Citric-Acid-Pound-VERIFIED/dp/B00EYFKM32/ https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/citric-acid-powders

    What do people normally use citric acid for that they need this much?

    I can't say.

    Have you tried lemon or lime juice?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Bob F on Mon Dec 12 13:46:00 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-12 18:18:35 +0000, Bob F said:

    My guess would be that the pressures you are talking about using a stone would blast the water out of the container.

    I'm not going to disagree where the advantage of the carbonating stone are
    the bubbles, but all the descriptions I've seen of using them takes time.

    I just realized though that I can attach the stone to a soda bottle cap,
    and then flip the soda bottle upside down so that the stone is under water.

    But if the stone takes time, that's the one thing I don't want to take, not that I can't just pressurize it at 20 psi and leave it there for hours, but
    if I do that, inevitable connection leaks will drain the CO2 tank.

    You are probably trying to
    find a nozzle with 1 of the same .5 micron holes as the stone has thousands.

    Well, the simple answer to that is for me to buy a sodastream for about
    $100 (which comes with a couple of bottles and CO2 canisters). :)

    You're right though that the perfect answer would be a nozzle with one tiny hole that I can mount in the cap of a one liter soda bottle.

    Then all I'd need is some kind of "trigger" where I already have quarter
    turn valves on my quick connect hoses but a button valve would be best.

    Do they sell one-press button valves for air pressure hose fittings?

    I have been thinking about how to carbonate my corny kegs faster,
    because I do not like to leave the CO2 turned on for large times because
    of potential leaks.

    Yup. I lost a couple of tanks worth of gas over the years due to leaks.
    That's why I like my current five minute method, as if there are leaks,
    they can only leak for the duration of the carbonation process.

    With the sodastream that five minutes becomes fifteen seconds (if you shut
    off the 5# carbon dioxide tank after each refill, which most people do).

    I might at some time try a system that pumps CO2 off
    the top of the tank through the stone at the bottom continuously. My
    guess is that it could charge a 5 gallon corny keg in 5-10 minutes or so
    of having the gas on at 50 PSI, much better than shaking the keg madly.

    One of my friends suggested a "pressure cooker", which is designed to not
    only hold in pressure but to vent at a given weight-based pressure he said.

    When I turn on the CO2 to carbonate a keg of fresh cold water with the regulator set to 30-50 PSI, I hear the gas running into the tank for
    several seconds, then tapering off.

    Thank you for your keg experience, which is what I do not have.
    Why is a keg carbonated anyway? Isn't the beer already carbonated?

    Even so, it's good to know you can hear the gas go inside the keg. For a
    soda bottle, I crush all the air out and the only thing I hear is the
    initial fill which is instantaneous almost, at 50psi.

    Then I don't hear anything for the five minutes it takes to get enough of
    the gas to dissolve in the cold water.

    I shake the top of the tank
    quickly back and forth I hear the gas quickly start flowing again.

    Funny you mention that. When I shake the bottle, I see the pressure gauge
    drop from about 50 psi to about 45 or 46 psi, and as the five minutes get closer to ringing the bell, from about 50 psi to about 48 or 49 psi.

    What I'm seeing (and you hearing) is more gas dissolving into the cold
    liquid as we shake which exposes more surface area to the gas.

    Stop shaking, and it again tapers off. That taper time indicates how much the shaking increases the gas dissolving into the water, and I expect the continuous tiny stone bubbles would be way better.

    My experience (with the gauge) is the same exactly as yours with the sound.
    I thought of putting flow gauge on the hose but I couldn't find a carbon dioxide flow gauge. Only oxygen flow gauges. And they were expensive.

    Plus it's another leak waiting to happen.

    It will be very interesting though to put a stone on the inside of the soda bottle cap, and then inverting the soda bottle so that the stone is under water. I will order one from Amazon because they're so inexpensive I may as well use them no matter what I end up doing.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Bob F on Mon Dec 12 14:12:11 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-12 10:18:26 +0000, Bob F said:

    Here's a Costco selection I just found based on your suggestion above.
    https://www.costcobusinessdelivery.com/flavored-syrups.html

    I use 1-2 teaspoons in a 24 oz cup of soda water, so they are very
    cheap. Just a little flavor compared to commercial sodas.

    I never looked much at the flavorings but you've convinced me that there
    must be a decent flavor at a cheap enough price to make it useful even
    though I wouldn't want to add sugar in any form (fake or real).

    What do people normally use citric acid for that they need this much?

    I can't say.
    Have you tried lemon or lime juice?

    I was surprised how little magnesium citrate it takes to flavor a liter
    (just a pinch) and then when I looked it up today, I was surprised the
    citric acid is half the price of the Calm, so I will try that next.

    As for juice, ANY juice will flavor the water, whether it's orange juice,
    or apple juice - where the problem is I don't want to add sugar.

    Lemon or lime juice often need sugar, which is why I don't use them.

    BTW, today I called the Praxair, Lindy, Airgas, Carbonics, and grocery
    stores to get prices and availability on carbon dioxide forms.

    If we start with the typical $15 sodastream canister refill, at 45 liters,
    that comes to about 33 cents per liter (probably more with shipping).

    Hooking up to a 5# carbon dioxide tank (either refilling the canisters or
    just hooking the five pound tank directly to a sodastream machine) drops
    that easily in half, and maybe even to about a third at a bit over 10 cents
    per liter, given the cost is $31 to have a 5# CO2 tank swapped out at
    Praxair and just under $30 to have that 5# CO2 tank refilled at Carbonics.

    Surprisingly, the dry ice, at around $2.50 to $3.50 a pound, comes in, nominally anyway, at half even that, at about 7 cents per liter if we
    assume we use a pound of dry ice to fill a 14.5 ounce sodastream canister.

    I found out that everyone sells dry ice in five and ten pound blocks, which they then weigh at the store (as they sublime over time) and charge you whatever weight is left time that price per pound.

    Each method has an advantage.

    The sodastream canister tradein has the advantage that you don't have to
    think, but you do need a minimum of three canisters (they give a discount
    for the two-pack refills) and it's the most expensive at about $0.33/liter.

    The dry ice is the cheapest, surprisingly, assuming you don't have to
    overbuy it, but you likely have to get five pounds, so you kind of need
    about five canisters to fill up at a time to make the waste worth it.

    And, the dry ice method requires zero additional costs in equipment.

    Refilling the sodastream from your liquid carbon dioxide tank is somewhere
    in between in cost (as the price of CO2 went up since I last bought it!).

    In terms of inconvenience, it doesn't seem worth it to tip the 5# CO2 tank upside down to refill the canisters with liquid carbon dioxide though,
    although this allows you to have only a single canister, which is one
    advantage of this method of refilling the canister with liquid C02.

    In terms of convenience, it seems the most convenient method is to just
    attach the 5# liquid carbon dioxide tank to the back of the sodastream,
    where my wife would kill me with that tank in the kitchen so I have to move
    it to the garage or basement but other than that, it will work just fine.

    The convenience factor of that method is that a single $30 5# refill (which
    is 80 ounces) should carbonate without waste, so we can use the 14.5 ounce figure for a sodastream canister to calculate that five pound tank is equivalent to 80/14.5 ounces or 5-1/2 sodastream canisters continually.

    At 45 liters of water per sodastream canister, that is 5.5 times 45 liters, which is just under 250 liters of carbonated water at about $30 of C02
    which works out to about $0.12 per liter of carbonated water.

    That assumes I pay the $100 for a sodastream plus about $40 for the high pressure 4,500 psi stainless steel quick connect hose and the brass quick connect adapter which is just a quick connect on one side and a female
    M18x1.5 thread which takes the brass top of a sodastream canister (which usually comes with the kit so you don't have to cannibalize a canister).

    Still, I'd like to find a way to insert a tiny 1/10 mm nozzle into a 1
    liter coca cola bottle cap so that I could test out replicating the $100 sodastream for the price of that one thin nozzle & quick on/off valve.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to gtr on Mon Dec 12 17:45:33 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/12/2022 1:46 PM, gtr wrote:
    On 2022-12-12 18:18:35 +0000, Bob F said:

    My guess would be that the pressures you are talking about using a
    stone would blast the water out of the container.

    I'm not going to disagree where the advantage of the carbonating stone are the bubbles, but all the descriptions I've seen of using them takes time.

    I just realized though that I can attach the stone to a soda bottle cap,
    and then flip the soda bottle upside down so that the stone is under water.

    But if the stone takes time, that's the one thing I don't want to take, not that I can't just pressurize it at 20 psi and leave it there for hours, but if I do that, inevitable connection leaks will drain the CO2 tank.

    You are probably trying to find a nozzle with 1 of the same .5 micron
    holes as the stone has thousands.

    Well, the simple answer to that is for me to buy a sodastream for about
    $100 (which comes with a couple of bottles and CO2 canisters). :)

    You're right though that the perfect answer would be a nozzle with one tiny hole that I can mount in the cap of a one liter soda bottle.

    Then all I'd need is some kind of "trigger" where I already have quarter
    turn valves on my quick connect hoses but a button valve would be best.

    Do they sell one-press button valves for air pressure hose fittings?

    I have been thinking about how to carbonate my corny kegs faster,
    because I do not like to leave the CO2 turned on for large times
    because of potential leaks.

    Yup. I lost a couple of tanks worth of gas over the years due to leaks. That's why I like my current five minute method, as if there are leaks,
    they can only leak for the duration of the carbonation process.

    With the sodastream that five minutes becomes fifteen seconds (if you shut off the 5# carbon dioxide tank after each refill, which most people do).

    I might at some time try a system that pumps CO2 off the top of the
    tank through the stone at the bottom continuously. My guess is that it
    could charge a 5 gallon corny keg in 5-10 minutes or so of having the
    gas on at 50 PSI, much better than shaking the keg madly.

    One of my friends suggested a "pressure cooker", which is designed to not only hold in pressure but to vent at a given weight-based pressure he said.

    When I turn on the CO2 to carbonate a keg of fresh cold water with the
    regulator set to 30-50 PSI, I hear the gas running into the tank for
    several seconds, then tapering off.

    Thank you for your keg experience, which is what I do not have.
    Why is a keg carbonated anyway? Isn't the beer already carbonated?

    I use them mostly for cider, which is fermented in glass carboys, then transferred to the keg and carbonated. There is not much carbonation
    that remains at atmospheric pressure. I also have 2 kegs in the cooler
    with water for soda water. 2, so I use one while the other gets cooled
    and then carbonated.

    At one time, I used a chest freezer (off) with a small heater in it to
    ferment a couple 5 gal. carboys. I bent over to reach something at the
    bottom and choked on the CO2. I tried lowering a lit match into the top
    of the cooler. It quickly went out as it passed the top of the cooler.

    For either beer or cider, you can add sugar to a keg of the product and
    it will carbonate. But, the kegs sometimes are not always totally sealed
    until the pressure gets high enough, so even then, CO2 helps. Also, as
    you drain the keg, you need to add CO2 or the carbonation and pressure
    will drop.


    Even so, it's good to know you can hear the gas go inside the keg. For a
    soda bottle, I crush all the air out and the only thing I hear is the
    initial fill which is instantaneous almost, at 50psi.

    Crushing the bottle will weaken it. you could just put the cap on
    loosely and quickly flush it with a bit of CO2 before carbonating it.


    Then I don't hear anything for the five minutes it takes to get enough of
    the gas to dissolve in the cold water.

     I shake the top of the tank quickly back and forth I hear the gas
    quickly start flowing again.

    Funny you mention that. When I shake the bottle, I see the pressure gauge drop from about 50 psi to about 45 or 46 psi, and as the five minutes get closer to ringing the bell, from about 50 psi to about 48 or 49 psi.

    What I'm seeing (and you hearing) is more gas dissolving into the cold
    liquid as we shake which exposes more surface area to the gas.

    Stop shaking, and it again tapers off. That taper time indicates how
    much the shaking increases the gas dissolving into the water, and I
    expect the continuous tiny stone bubbles would be way better.

    My experience (with the gauge) is the same exactly as yours with the sound.
    I thought of putting flow gauge on the hose but I couldn't find a carbon dioxide flow gauge. Only oxygen flow gauges. And they were expensive.

    Plus it's another leak waiting to happen.
    It will be very interesting though to put a stone on the inside of the soda bottle cap, and then inverting the soda bottle so that the stone is under water. I will order one from Amazon because they're so inexpensive I may as well use them no matter what I end up doing.

    Or, you can use plastic tubing to extend the stone to the bottom, which
    is what I did with the stone in my kegs.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to gtr on Mon Dec 12 18:02:26 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/12/2022 2:12 PM, gtr wrote:
    On 2022-12-12 10:18:26 +0000, Bob F said:

    Here's a Costco selection I just found based on your suggestion above.
    https://www.costcobusinessdelivery.com/flavored-syrups.html

    I use 1-2 teaspoons in a 24 oz cup of soda water, so they are very
    cheap. Just a little flavor compared to commercial sodas.

    I never looked much at the flavorings but you've convinced me that there
    must be a decent flavor at a cheap enough price to make it useful even
    though I wouldn't want to add sugar in any form (fake or real).

    What do people normally use citric acid for that they need this much?

    I can't say.
    Have you tried lemon or lime juice?

    I was surprised how little magnesium citrate it takes to flavor a liter
    (just a pinch) and then when I looked it up today, I was surprised the
    citric acid is half the price of the Calm, so I will try that next.

    As for juice, ANY juice will flavor the water, whether it's orange
    juice, or apple juice - where the problem is I don't want to add sugar.
    Lemon or lime juice often need sugar, which is why I don't use them.

    BTW, today I called the Praxair, Lindy, Airgas, Carbonics, and grocery
    stores to get prices and availability on carbon dioxide forms.

    If we start with the typical $15 sodastream canister refill, at 45
    liters, that comes to about 33 cents per liter (probably more with
    shipping).

    Hooking up to a 5# carbon dioxide tank (either refilling the canisters
    or just hooking the five pound tank directly to a sodastream machine)
    drops that easily in half, and maybe even to about a third at a bit over
    10 cents per liter, given the cost is $31 to have a 5# CO2 tank swapped
    out at Praxair and just under $30 to have that 5# CO2 tank refilled at Carbonics.

    At my supplier, a 20# tank swap is way lower per pound than 5#.
    Something like $35 for the 20# and $25 for the 5#.


    Surprisingly, the dry ice, at around $2.50 to $3.50 a pound, comes in, nominally anyway, at half even that, at about 7 cents per liter if we
    assume we use a pound of dry ice to fill a 14.5 ounce sodastream canister.
    I found out that everyone sells dry ice in five and ten pound blocks,
    which they then weigh at the store (as they sublime over time) and
    charge you whatever weight is left time that price per pound.

    Each method has an advantage.

    The sodastream canister tradein has the advantage that you don't have to think, but you do need a minimum of three canisters (they give a
    discount for the two-pack refills) and it's the most expensive at about $0.33/liter.

    The dry ice is the cheapest, surprisingly, assuming you don't have to
    overbuy it, but you likely have to get five pounds, so you kind of need
    about five canisters to fill up at a time to make the waste worth it.

    If you put a pound into a 14.5 oz tank, the tank will probably vent a significant amount.

    And, the dry ice method requires zero additional costs in equipment.

    Refilling the sodastream from your liquid carbon dioxide tank is
    somewhere in between in cost (as the price of CO2 went up since I last
    bought it!).

    In terms of inconvenience, it doesn't seem worth it to tip the 5# CO2
    tank upside down to refill the canisters with liquid carbon dioxide
    though, although this allows you to have only a single canister, which
    is one advantage of this method of refilling the canister with liquid C02.

    In terms of convenience, it seems the most convenient method is to just attach the 5# liquid carbon dioxide tank to the back of the sodastream,
    where my wife would kill me with that tank in the kitchen so I have to
    move it to the garage or basement but other than that, it will work just fine.

    Or, just refill your sodastream tanks in the garage from your big tank
    with a suitable adapter. Put them in the freezer for a couple hours.
    Then take it quickly to the garage, hook up the tank to your refill hose
    on the upside down or siphon CO2 tank and open the valves to each. Close
    the valves, disconnect the hose from the filled tank and put it back in
    the sodastream.



    The convenience factor of that method is that a single $30 5# refill
    (which is 80 ounces) should carbonate without waste, so we can use the
    14.5 ounce figure for a sodastream canister to calculate that five pound
    tank is equivalent to 80/14.5 ounces or 5-1/2 sodastream canisters continually.

    At 45 liters of water per sodastream canister, that is 5.5 times 45
    liters, which is just under 250 liters of carbonated water at about $30
    of C02 which works out to about $0.12 per liter of carbonated water.

    That assumes I pay the $100 for a sodastream plus about $40 for the high pressure 4,500 psi stainless steel quick connect hose and the brass
    quick connect adapter which is just a quick connect on one side and a
    female M18x1.5 thread which takes the brass top of a sodastream canister (which usually comes with the kit so you don't have to cannibalize a canister).

    Still, I'd like to find a way to insert a tiny 1/10 mm nozzle into a 1
    liter coca cola bottle cap so that I could test out replicating the $100 sodastream for the price of that one thin nozzle & quick on/off valve.

    I bet the sodastream nozzle is way smaller than that.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Bob F on Tue Dec 13 09:09:38 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-13 02:02:26 +0000, Bob F said:

    Hooking up to a 5# carbon dioxide tank (either refilling the canisters
    or just hooking the five pound tank directly to a sodastream machine)
    drops that easily in half, and maybe even to about a third at a bit over
    10 cents per liter, given the cost is $31 to have a 5# CO2 tank swapped
    out at Praxair and just under $30 to have that 5# CO2 tank refilled at
    Carbonics.

    At my supplier, a 20# tank swap is way lower per pound than 5#.
    Something like $35 for the 20# and $25 for the 5#.

    I don't disagree that the welding shops swap out the 20# tanks more
    frequently than 5# tanks so there are economies of scale for them.

    I called today for prices on the larger sizes where it's huge the
    difference per pound of liquid carbon dioxide when refilled at Carbonics.
    Carbonic Refills = $27+tax/5#, $30+tax/10# & $32+tax/20#
    Praxair Swaps = $30.90/5# & $49.14/20# (includes hazmat fee & taxes)

    Praxair won't touch the 10 pound cylinders, and those are steel prices,
    where I don't know why their charge is different for aluminum cylinders.

    But you can tell that for refilling, the setup is where all the cost is.
    At about $35 (taxed) for 20 pounds it's only about 3.5 cents per liter.

    The dry ice is the cheapest, surprisingly, assuming you don't have to
    overbuy it, but you likely have to get five pounds, so you kind of need
    about five canisters to fill up at a time to make the waste worth it.

    If you put a pound into a 14.5 oz tank, the tank will probably vent a significant amount.

    I'm sorry if I wasn't clear. I'd only put 14.5 ounces maximum of crushed
    dry ice into the canister. But in calculating costs, there will be wastage
    from travel and storage and preparation, so I assume a pound is consumed.

    The canister has multiple separate safety over venting features, one of
    which is the 10 mm vent over pressure valve but there is also a tiny ~1/2
    mm hole drilled in the lower part of the M18x1.5 male threads which would
    vent whenever you unscrew the valve to prevent the valve from shooting out
    like a bullet if you forgot to loosen the 10mm overpressure valve.

    There is also a black rubber o-ring in the M18x1.5 male threads but that's likely more to prevent leakage than a safety feature.

    In terms of convenience, it seems the most convenient method is to just
    attach the 5# liquid carbon dioxide tank to the back of the sodastream,
    where my wife would kill me with that tank in the kitchen so I have to
    move it to the garage or basement but other than that, it will work just
    fine.

    Or, just refill your sodastream tanks in the garage from your big tank
    with a suitable adapter. Put them in the freezer for a couple hours.
    Then take it quickly to the garage, hook up the tank to your refill hose
    on the upside down or siphon CO2 tank and open the valves to each. Close
    the valves, disconnect the hose from the filled tank and put it back in
    the sodastream.

    Yes. Both methods work. Each has advantages & disadvantages.

    The advantage of refilling the 14.5 ounce canisters using the liquid carbon dioxide tank with the eductor (siphon) tube is that everything sits
    upright, and the disadvantage of the tank that I have (which has no siphon tube) is that I have to tilt it at a steep angle on an upside down chair
    (or strap it in upside down). But that's not a big deal once I have a jig.

    The advantage of connecting the big tanks directly to the sodastream is you hook it up once, and then you use from five to twenty canisters' worth of
    gas (carbonating 45 liters per each) without needing to touch anything.

    At an average of a liter of bubbly a day, a 20# CO2 tank will last 22 times
    45 liters, which is just under three years of bubbly from the big tank. For
    the smaller 5# tank, it's only about 250 days but that's convenient enough.

    The disadvantage of connecting the liquid C02 tanks directly to the
    sodastream are that you have to hide the tank and hoses if you leave it in
    the kitchen - or you have to use downstairs or into the garage otherwise.

    Still, I'd like to find a way to insert a tiny 1/10 mm nozzle into a 1
    liter coca cola bottle cap so that I could test out replicating the $100
    sodastream for the price of that one thin nozzle & quick on/off valve.

    I bet the sodastream nozzle is way smaller than that.

    I will call PepsiCo to try to find out how small the nozzle is. https://support.sodastream.com/hc/en-us 800-763-2258

    BTW, I found out that almost every size from sodastream is overcounted.
    In the 1 L SodaStream bottle you only carbonate 840 ml.
    In the 0.5 L SodaStream bottle you only carbonate 450 ml.
    In the 0.8 L SodaStream glass carafe you only carbonate 620 ml.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bugsy@21:1/5 to Bob F on Tue Dec 13 13:13:05 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    Bob F <[email protected]> wrote:

    Or, you can use plastic tubing to extend the stone to the bottom, which
    is what I did with the stone in my kegs.

    Do you think one problem with the stone immersed in the liquid is that the
    40 psi of continuous pressure might force the water under pressure to back
    up the hose into your pressure regulator?
    --
    Please wear your mask!
    Bugs are everywhere. :)
    !__!
    (@)(@)
    \.'||'./
    -: :: :-
    /'..''..'\

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bugsy@21:1/5 to Bob F on Tue Dec 13 13:40:47 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    Bob F <[email protected]> wrote:

    Pressure washer nozzles or carburetor jets are designed for liquids, and
    are probably way to big, but you could research those.

    Looking at the photos and brewing beer links, why wouldn't it work to just
    pick up a handful of plastic or stainless steel soda bottle carbonating
    caps and one ball lock disconnect attached to the carbon dioxide regulator?

    *Stainless Steel Soda Bottle Carbonating Cap* https://www.kegoutlet.com/ss-cap-stainless-steel-soda-bottle-carbonating-cap.html
    https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/carbonation-cap-stainless-steel https://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonation-line-cleaning-ball-lock-cap-stainless.html
    https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/carbonatorssbarb.htm

    And then fill each soda bottle 3/4 with cold water & pressurize with this?

    *Ball Lock (Gas) Quick Disconnect - 1/4" Barb* https://www.kegoutlet.com/dc101-ball-lock-gas-disconnect-barbed.html https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/ball-disc-1-4-mfl-gas https://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-disconnect-beverage-barb.html https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/blqdcomp14.htm

    I'm guessing you squeeze out the top air from a soda bottle & then fill
    that top space with pure carbon dioxide gas at something like 40 psi & then just leave it capped in a refrigerator to absorb as much CO2 as it can.

    Shouldn't it stay pressurized at 40 psi until you finally open it to drink?

    If you have as many carbonating caps as you have soda bottles, would each
    water bottle stay pressurized at that 40 psi until you need to open the
    bottle to drink?

    Once you open the bottle of course, then you lose the 40 psi in the head
    space but can't you then either re-pressurize back to the 40 psi or just
    cap it with a normal cap like any soda that you drink before it goes flat?

    Why wouldn't that work even easier & cheaper than a sodastream machine?

    Soda bottle carbonation cap & ball lock quick disconnect kit. https://www.amazon.com/SYL-stainless-carbonation-disconnect-swivel/dp/B08BXP7VN4/

    Why wouldn't that work?
    --
    Please wear your mask!
    Bugs are everywhere. :)
    !__!
    (@)(@)
    \.'||'./
    -: :: :-
    /'..''..'\

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to Bugsy on Tue Dec 13 14:23:24 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/13/2022 11:13 AM, Bugsy wrote:
    Bob F <[email protected]> wrote:

    Or, you can use plastic tubing to extend the stone to the bottom, which
    is what I did with the stone in my kegs.

    Do you think one problem with the stone immersed in the liquid is that the
    40 psi of continuous pressure might force the water under pressure to back
    up the hose into your pressure regulator?

    The stone has to be immersed to work. My regulator has a check valve to eliminate that problem. When I remove the hose from the keg, the keg
    fitting closes the flow path. The carbonator caps you show elsewhere is
    the same.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to Bugsy on Tue Dec 13 14:19:10 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/13/2022 11:40 AM, Bugsy wrote:
    Bob F <[email protected]> wrote:

    Pressure washer nozzles or carburetor jets are designed for liquids, and
    are probably way to big, but you could research those.

    Looking at the photos and brewing beer links, why wouldn't it work to just pick up a handful of plastic or stainless steel soda bottle carbonating
    caps and one ball lock disconnect attached to the carbon dioxide regulator?

    *Stainless Steel Soda Bottle Carbonating Cap* https://www.kegoutlet.com/ss-cap-stainless-steel-soda-bottle-carbonating-cap.html
    https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/carbonation-cap-stainless-steel https://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonation-line-cleaning-ball-lock-cap-stainless.html
    https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/carbonatorssbarb.htm

    And then fill each soda bottle 3/4 with cold water & pressurize with this?

    *Ball Lock (Gas) Quick Disconnect - 1/4" Barb* https://www.kegoutlet.com/dc101-ball-lock-gas-disconnect-barbed.html https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/ball-disc-1-4-mfl-gas https://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-disconnect-beverage-barb.html https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/blqdcomp14.htm

    I'm guessing you squeeze out the top air from a soda bottle & then fill
    that top space with pure carbon dioxide gas at something like 40 psi & then just leave it capped in a refrigerator to absorb as much CO2 as it can.

    Shouldn't it stay pressurized at 40 psi until you finally open it to drink?

    Nope! The pressure will rapidly drop as the CO2 dissolves into the
    water. Then you can pressurize it several times more, depending on the airspace, until the pressure stabilizes where you want it.


    If you have as many carbonating caps as you have soda bottles, would each water bottle stay pressurized at that 40 psi until you need to open the bottle to drink?

    Once you open the bottle of course, then you lose the 40 psi in the head space but can't you then either re-pressurize back to the 40 psi or just
    cap it with a normal cap like any soda that you drink before it goes flat?

    Then, some of the CO2 comes out of the water, increasing the pressure of
    the air/CO2 at the top. After a few drinks spread over time, the soda
    goes flat.


    Why wouldn't that work even easier & cheaper than a sodastream machine?

    Soda bottle carbonation cap & ball lock quick disconnect kit. https://www.amazon.com/SYL-stainless-carbonation-disconnect-swivel/dp/B08BXP7VN4/

    Why wouldn't that work?

    The carbonation cap could have a hose and .5 micron stone added to speed
    up the process.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bud Frede@21:1/5 to gtr on Wed Dec 14 10:57:50 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    gtr <[email protected]> writes:


    Thank you for your keg experience, which is what I do not have.
    Why is a keg carbonated anyway? Isn't the beer already carbonated?


    When you brew beer or other beverages, you normally do it in something
    other than a keg. It's easiest if you have something with a wide top and
    lid. That way, after fermentation is done and you transfer the liquid to something else, it's easy to clean out the residue from the yeast,
    etc. There's generally an airlock or "bubbler" in the lid of the
    fermentation vessel to let out the extra CO2. That means that, while the
    beer will be slightly carbonated after fermentation, it's not nearly
    enough to be what most people these days would consider to be
    "carbonated."


    You can then carbonate the beverage naturally or artificially (with
    compressed CO2).

    If you bottle the beer, if it has a bit of sugar and the yeast still
    left, it will keep fermenting in the sealed bottle and produce
    carbonation. Of course, this does produce some yeast residue in the
    bottle (lees). It can also be dangerous if you misjudge how much
    fermentation was left to happen. I'm told that exploding bottles of beer
    are not at all fun. (This process of carbonation in the bottle is often
    called bottle-conditioned.)

    Some beverages are filtered after fermentation, and the filters are fine
    enough that they filter out the yeast. (The typical US light pilsner
    like Bud or Busch are filtered this way. The Adolph Coors Co. made
    ceramic filters for use in filtering things like this - I'm not sure if
    Coors Ceramic is still around or not...) These ceramic filters are not typically something you'd use at home. The beer needs to be forced
    through them under pressure and it still takes a while.

    Without that yeast, you do need to artificially carbonate the
    beverage. That could be done in large tanks or in the kegs. Tap systems
    usually add some carbonation as well.

    Let's say you've got Cornelius kegs and let the beer naturally carbonate
    in them. Now you have a mess at the bottom and will have to clean it
    once the keg is emptied. These kegs have kind of small "hatches" at the
    top (or at least they used to - it's been a long time since I did any
    brewing myself) and you need long-handled brushes to scrub the bottom of
    the keg.

    What you might do instead is keep fermenting in your tub or vat until
    the sugar content is way down. Then you try to keep the residues from
    being transferred over to the kegs, or maybe even use some filtering to
    keep out the larger bits. Now you've got your beer in the keg and it's
    not going to ferment much more and produce carbonation, so you need to artificially carbonate it.

    BTW, when bottle-conditioning beer, it's sometimes necessary to add a
    bit of sugar when bottling if the beer didn't have enough left to ensure
    good carbonation. Add too much and you have beer on the ceiling.

    Beers and ales before modern times, with sealed bottles and kegs that
    can withstand pressure and with tap systems, were typically rather flat
    and might be unappetizing to people now.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bud Frede@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Wed Dec 14 11:07:55 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    The Real Bev <[email protected]> writes:

    Who cares? It costs more to make your own than it does to buy
    it. Moreover, the CO2 leaks out and you depend on the honesty of the
    people who fill the CO2 canister. Total waste.

    Making your own does mean that you don't have to lug all of that water
    back from the store. :-)

    Also, given the poor track record of the recycling system in my area,
    I'm pretty sure that I put less waste into landfills by making my own
    sparkling water since I'm not constantly throwing away cans and bottles.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Bud Frede on Wed Dec 14 10:51:18 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-14 16:07:55 +0000, Bud Frede said:

    The Real Bev <[email protected]> writes:

    Who cares? It costs more to make your own than it does to buy
    it. Moreover, the CO2 leaks out and you depend on the honesty of the
    people who fill the CO2 canister. Total waste.

    Making your own does mean that you don't have to lug all of that water
    back from the store. :-)

    Also, given the poor track record of the recycling system in my area,
    I'm pretty sure that I put less waste into landfills by making my own sparkling water since I'm not constantly throwing away cans and bottles.

    I found something! https://i.postimg.cc/T3c6sjss/soda01.jpg
    It was in the automotive tools section of the air compressor section!

    The hole in the tip is so small I can't even see it without glasses.
    But the problem is the gun has to handle 800 psi & it says it's only 90psi.

    And I found an almost perfect teeny-tiny-airhole gun tip too!
    It was in the welding section! https://i.postimg.cc/ydg270fs/soda02.jpg

    What do you think about those threaded MIG Welding "contact tips", whatever they are, they seem to be in sizes of 0.023", 0.030", 0.035", 0.045" sizes.

    Do you think copper threaded mig welding contact tips can handle 800 psi?

    I even experimented with these three free citrus oil flavors. https://i.postimg.cc/7LsyHHwM/soda03.jpg

    What I don't think will work are the oxyacetylene tips. https://i.postimg.cc/BZd4PnDm/soda04.jpg

    What do you think about making an apparatus with the mig contact tips?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to gtr on Wed Dec 14 11:41:51 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/14/2022 10:51 AM, gtr wrote:
    On 2022-12-14 16:07:55 +0000, Bud Frede said:

    The Real Bev <[email protected]> writes:

    Who cares?  It costs more to make your own than it does to buy
    it. Moreover, the CO2 leaks out and you depend on the honesty of the
    people who fill the CO2 canister.  Total waste.

    Making your own does mean that you don't have to lug all of that water
    back from the store. :-)

    Also, given the poor track record of the recycling system in my area,
    I'm pretty sure that I put less waste into landfills by making my own
    sparkling water since I'm not constantly throwing away cans and bottles.

    I found something! https://i.postimg.cc/T3c6sjss/soda01.jpg
    It was in the automotive tools section of the air compressor section!

    The hole in the tip is so small I can't even see it without glasses.
    But the problem is the gun has to handle 800 psi & it says it's only 90psi.

    And I found an almost perfect teeny-tiny-airhole gun tip too!
    It was in the welding  section! https://i.postimg.cc/ydg270fs/soda02.jpg

    What do you think about those threaded MIG Welding "contact tips", whatever they are, they seem to be in sizes of 0.023", 0.030", 0.035", 0.045" sizes.

    Do you think copper threaded mig welding contact tips can handle 800 psi?

    I even experimented with these three free citrus oil flavors. https://i.postimg.cc/7LsyHHwM/soda03.jpg

    What I don't think will work are the oxyacetylene tips. https://i.postimg.cc/BZd4PnDm/soda04.jpg

    What do you think about making an apparatus with the mig contact tips?

    Try the nozzle at 90 psi with air into a bottle of water. I'd bet it
    would blast water all over the place. Then imagine it at 800 PSI.

    I am pretty sure that any of these nozzles, all designed for lower
    pressures, have nozzles far to big for this use.

    The 90 PSI hand gun would likely blow up at 800PSI.

    Another thought - The sodastream system probably wastes 1/2 of the CO2
    it uses by loss to the atmosphere, because it releases almost all the
    CO2 that bubbles out of the water with each squirt into the
    unpressurized bottle. The way you do it with the carbonator cap on a
    closed bottle wastes almost none. A .5 micron stone at low pressure on
    your bottle might be optimal, especially if you can come up with a
    restricting nozzle to limit the flow to an optimal bubble rate (or
    slowly increase the pressure valve as the pressure in the bottle
    increases and bubbles decrease)

    Using the carbonator cap with the bottle, slowing increasing the
    pressure, and shaking it too, to keep the bubbles from reaching the top
    so fast might optimize what you have now.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From gtr@21:1/5 to Bob F on Wed Dec 14 12:19:35 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2022-12-14 19:41:51 +0000, Bob F said:

    Try the nozzle at 90 psi with air into a bottle of water. I'd bet it
    would blast water all over the place. Then imagine it at 800 PSI.

    I'm not going to disagree until I've tried it. When I get home from work I
    can try it out at home with just 120 psi from my air compressor.

    The good thing is the automotive gun hole is so tiny I can barely see it.
    The bad thing is the automotive gun is huge compared to what I need.

    I am pretty sure that any of these nozzles, all designed for lower
    pressures, have nozzles far to big for this use.

    The smallest TIG welder hole opening I could find was 0.023", but it had
    the advantage of being really tiny and already threaded. I'll stop by home depot on my way home from work to see if I can find what the threads are.

    The 90 PSI hand gun would likely blow up at 800PSI.

    I'm sure there is a good reason the gun says it is 90 psi, where even if we double that, it's far too low, and besides, the gaskets have to handle it.

    Another thought - The sodastream system probably wastes 1/2 of the CO2
    it uses by loss to the atmosphere, because it releases almost all the
    CO2 that bubbles out of the water with each squirt into the
    unpressurized bottle.

    I think that might be true to a huge extent, but I think the bottle itself
    _is_ pressurized because it holds the pressure during storage in a frig.

    It's not the bottle that isn't pressurized but the connection of the bottle
    to the sodastream that has an overpressure valve, I think.

    I couldn't get out of sodastream what pressure they pressurize the bottles
    to, but they say the bottles "expire" after a few years.

    The way you do it with the carbonator cap on a
    closed bottle wastes almost none.

    What I love about the carbonation cap idea, which I think it was you who brought it up first, is that it's so simple in threading it together.
    1. I get a dozen of the carbonation caps, one for each bottle.
    2. I get one of the Y-shaped fillers and I fill up each bottle.
    3. At that point I can let it sit for days to slowly carbonate.

    As you said, the carbon dioxide in the water will eventually equilibrate
    with whatever partial pressure of CO2 is in the headspace, but I can always squeeze all that out and repressurize the headspace whenever I want to.

    It seems to be the slowest method overall but if I do ten or twenty liters
    at a time, it's actually the least amount of fuss. I would only have to refrigerate the bottle a day or two before using it so the frig can hold
    only one bottle while the other nineteen can be on a pantry shelf like a
    soda bottle sits in the shelves in the grocery store.

    A .5 micron stone at low pressure on
    your bottle might be optimal, especially if you can come up with a restricting nozzle to limit the flow to an optimal bubble rate (or
    slowly increase the pressure valve as the pressure in the bottle
    increases and bubbles decrease)

    The carbonating stone idea is still in the cards, mainly because it's so
    simple and so cheap but the more I look at it, I have to add a check valve
    of some sort so that the water doesn't flow back to destroy the regulator.

    Using the carbonator cap with the bottle, slowing increasing the
    pressure, and shaking it too, to keep the bubbles from reaching the top
    so fast might optimize what you have now.

    I didn't think of that, but the carbonating cap can come with a nozzle in addition to the soda bottle threads, so yes, two can be done at the same
    time.
    1. I pressurize the head space
    2. I add gas from the stone which sinks to the bottom.

    Right now I'm going to go to home depot to see what male threads are on the
    end of the copper tip 0.23" tig welder contact tip, because all I need then
    is to attach that copper tip to a piece of female threaded pipe attached to
    the bottle cap.

    Please keep the ideas coming as this is replicating a soda stream without having a sodastream to replicate.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to gtr on Wed Dec 14 13:54:27 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 12/14/2022 12:19 PM, gtr wrote:
    On 2022-12-14 19:41:51 +0000, Bob F said:

    Try the nozzle at 90 psi with air into a bottle of water. I'd bet it
    would blast water all over the place. Then imagine it at 800 PSI.

    I'm not going to disagree until I've tried it. When I get home from work I can try it out at home with just 120 psi from my air compressor.
    The good thing is the automotive gun hole is so tiny I can barely see it.
    The bad thing is the automotive gun is huge compared to what I need.

    I am pretty sure that any of these nozzles, all designed for lower
    pressures, have nozzles far to big for this use.

    The smallest TIG welder hole opening I could find was 0.023", but it had
    the advantage of being really tiny and already threaded. I'll stop by home depot on my way home from work to see if I can find what the threads are.

    Welders work at fairly low pressure normally, so they will have a much
    bigger orifice than what you need.


    The 90 PSI hand gun would likely blow up at 800PSI.

    I'm sure there is a good reason the gun says it is 90 psi, where even if we double that, it's far too low, and besides, the gaskets have to handle it.

    Another thought - The sodastream system probably wastes 1/2 of the CO2
    it uses by loss to the atmosphere, because it releases almost all the
    CO2 that bubbles out of the water with each squirt into the
    unpressurized bottle.

    I think that might be true to a huge extent, but I think the bottle itself _is_ pressurized because it holds the pressure during storage in a frig.

    It's not the bottle that isn't pressurized but the connection of the bottle to the sodastream that has an overpressure valve, I think.
    I couldn't get out of sodastream what pressure they pressurize the bottles to, but they say the bottles "expire" after a few years.
    The way you do it with the carbonator cap on a closed bottle wastes
    almost none.

    What I love about the carbonation cap idea, which I think it was you who brought it up first, is that it's so simple in threading it together.
    1. I get a dozen of the carbonation caps, one for each bottle.
    2. I get one of the Y-shaped fillers and I fill up each bottle.
    3. At that point I can let it sit for days to slowly carbonate.

    Squeeze the bottle gently. If it feels soft, add more. No reason to wait
    days, or even many hours. If your regulator is set to 50PSI, stop when
    when the bottle feels firm. You don't want it to be 50 when you remove
    the cap or it will be a gusher.


    As you said, the carbon dioxide in the water will eventually equilibrate
    with whatever partial pressure of CO2 is in the headspace, but I can always squeeze all that out and repressurize the headspace whenever I want to.

    Why squeeze out the CO2 at the top, just to replace it with more?
    Just add more CO2.


    It seems to be the slowest method overall but if I do ten or twenty liters
    at a time, it's actually the least amount of fuss. I would only have to refrigerate the bottle a day or two before using it so the frig can hold
    only one bottle while the other nineteen can be on a pantry shelf like a
    soda bottle sits in the shelves in the grocery store.

    A .5 micron stone at low pressure on your bottle might be optimal,
    especially if you can come up with a restricting nozzle to limit the
    flow to an optimal bubble rate (or slowly increase the pressure valve
    as the pressure in the bottle increases and bubbles decrease)

    The carbonating stone idea is still in the cards, mainly because it's so simple and so cheap but the more I look at it, I have to add a check valve
    of some sort so that the water doesn't flow back to destroy the regulator.

    If there is no leak, there is no reason it should flow back. Pop the
    hose off the cap it you are worried.


    Using the carbonator cap with the bottle, slowing increasing the
    pressure, and shaking it too, to keep the bubbles from reaching the
    top so fast might optimize what you have now.

    I didn't think of that, but the carbonating cap can come with a nozzle in addition to the soda bottle threads, so yes, two can be done at the same time.
    1. I pressurize the head space
    2. I add gas from the stone which sinks to the bottom.

    Right now I'm going to go to home depot to see what male threads are on the end of the copper tip 0.23" tig welder contact tip, because all I need then is to attach that copper tip to a piece of female threaded pipe attached to the bottle cap.

    Please keep the ideas coming as this is replicating a soda stream without having a sodastream to replicate.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bugsy@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Thu Dec 22 12:55:19 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    The Real Bev <[email protected]> wrote:

    Kalifornia's bottle recycling program is screwed. The state collects
    the money...

    I don't think that's correct.
    I think the store keeps the entire CRV.
    I think the only part the state gets is the sales tax on the CRV.

    So, for example, let's say (for arguments sake) the store sells ten cases
    of soda a day every day for a year - which is 24 sodas per case times ten
    cases a day times 365 days in a year which is about $9 thousand dollars in
    CRV if I rough it out in my head using approximations.

    At roughly a 10% California sales tax approximation, that's about $900 in
    sales tax on the CRV alone which California _does_ get to collect (and
    which the poor hapless consumer _never_ gets back when they return the
    bottle for their CRV).

    California likely makes billions alone on just the tax on the CRV.

    but since there are so few recyclers now (in spite of legal
    requirements, it's cheaper for supermarkets to pay the fine than to
    establish recycling systems) most people just toss theirs into the
    recycling bin.

    In the richer towns, all the supermarkets pay the fine for not having a recycling center inside the store or within a mile radius, which tells you
    that it's cheaper for them to pay the fine and keep the CRV than it is to recycle the bottles.

    Apparently containers with deposits, cardboard, concrete and asphalt are
    the only things worth recycling. I see a guy with a tiny Toyota pickup loaded higher than the cab with flattened cardboard from behind the
    shops across the street. A couple of years ago he said he made $25/load
    and it's a 10-mile round trip to the recycler.

    In California, there are three types of weekly pickup, the blue recycling,
    the green landscaping, and the gray trash, where they make money on the
    blue and green but they lose money on the gray.

    What you could do is recycle almost everything yourself by composting the
    gray stuff but they don't charge you any less if you don't have gray
    pickups.

    And, in fact, they give you up to five free blue and five free green cans
    which are four feet or so high and three feet square in width, simply
    because they make money on every blue and green can they pick up.

    They make the gray cans very small as you pay by the size of them.

    Some people are just bloody-minded and save up enough bottles/cans to
    make a 10-mile round trip worth doing. It may be noted that I once
    brought back over $135.00 worth of aluminum cans (pickup truck).

    That being said, I'm glad hubby stopped drinking the stuff. Rots your
    teeth and is a general nuisance no matter how you look at it.

    In California, you can only give them fifty cans/bottles at a time if you
    ask them to COUNT them (and pay you the CRV by number), but if you give
    them more than fifty bottles, then they have the option to just weigh them
    and give you an "average price", which is some kind of funky calculation.
    --
    Please wear your mask!
    Bugs are everywhere. :)
    !__!
    (@)(@)
    \.'||'./
    -: :: :-
    /'..''..'\

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Lurndal@21:1/5 to Bugsy on Thu Dec 22 19:51:20 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    Bugsy <[email protected]SY> writes:
    The Real Bev <[email protected]> wrote:

    Kalifornia's bottle recycling program is screwed. The state collects
    the money...

    I don't think that's correct.
    I think the store keeps the entire CRV.
    I think the only part the state gets is the sales tax on the CRV.

    So, for example, let's say (for arguments sake) the store sells ten cases
    of soda a day every day for a year - which is 24 sodas per case times ten >cases a day times 365 days in a year which is about $9 thousand dollars in >CRV if I rough it out in my head using approximations.

    Using your numbers:

    $ printf '%f\n' $(( 0.05 * 240.0 * 365.0 ))
    4380.000000

    Which works out to about 18 million in CRV from the 4,147 grocery stores in California:

    $ printf '%f\n' $(( 0.05 * 240.0 * 365.0 * 4147.0 ))
    18163860.000000

    Somewhat more if you add in minimarts and gas stations. Assuming your
    10 cases/day (which is actually quite low, I suspect).

    The total sales tax on the CRV (the state portion is 7.25%) would be

    $ printf '%f\n' $(( 0.05 * 240.0 * 365.0 * 4147.0 * 0.0725 ))
    1316879.850000


    This leaves out wholesale sales (e.g. to restaurants for resale), and
    ten cases a day is likely quite low for grocery stores in most urban
    areas. Especially in modern times where canned flavored carbonated
    water is popular.


    At roughly a 10% California sales tax approximation, that's about $900 in >sales tax on the CRV alone which California _does_ get to collect (and
    which the poor hapless consumer _never_ gets back when they return the
    bottle for their CRV).

    However, they obtain the benefits of the tax in terms of road improvements, public safety, et cetera, et alia.


    California likely makes billions alone on just the tax on the CRV.

    As noted above, it's likely in the low millions.



    In California, you can only give them fifty cans/bottles at a time if you
    ask them to COUNT them (and pay you the CRV by number), but if you give
    them more than fifty bottles, then they have the option to just weigh them >and give you an "average price", which is some kind of funky calculation.

    Or you can flatten the cans and take them to a metal recycling facility
    where you're paid by the pound, which is what I did before I gave up on
    canned beverages.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Cannabis knewz@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jan 9 10:39:46 2023
    Le jeudi 22 décembre 2022 à 20:51:23 UTC+1, Scott Lurndal a écrit :
    Bugsy <[email protected]SY> writes:
    The Real Bev <[email protected]> wrote:

    Kalifornia's bottle recycling program is screwed. The state collects
    the money...

    I don't think that's correct.
    I think the store keeps the entire CRV.
    I think the only part the state gets is the sales tax on the CRV.

    So, for example, let's say (for arguments sake) the store sells ten cases >of soda a day every day for a year - which is 24 sodas per case times ten >cases a day times 365 days in a year which is about $9 thousand dollars in >CRV if I rough it out in my head using approximations.
    Using your numbers:

    $ printf '%f\n' $(( 0.05 * 240.0 * 365.0 ))
    4380.000000

    Which works out to about 18 million in CRV from the 4,147 grocery stores in California:

    $ printf '%f\n' $(( 0.05 * 240.0 * 365.0 * 4147.0 ))
    18163860.000000

    Somewhat more if you add in minimarts and gas stations. Assuming your
    10 cases/day (which is actually quite low, I suspect).

    The total sales tax on the CRV (the state portion is 7.25%) would be

    $ printf '%f\n' $(( 0.05 * 240.0 * 365.0 * 4147.0 * 0.0725 ))
    1316879.850000


    This leaves out wholesale sales (e.g. to restaurants for resale), and
    ten cases a day is likely quite low for grocery stores in most urban
    areas. Especially in modern times where canned flavored carbonated
    water is popular.

    At roughly a 10% California sales tax approximation, that's about $900 in >sales tax on the CRV alone which California _does_ get to collect (and >which the poor hapless consumer _never_ gets back when they return the >bottle for their CRV).
    However, they obtain the benefits of the tax in terms of road improvements, public safety, et cetera, et alia.

    California likely makes billions alone on just the tax on the CRV.
    As noted above, it's likely in the low millions.

    In California, you can only give them fifty cans/bottles at a time if you >ask them to COUNT them (and pay you the CRV by number), but if you give >them more than fifty bottles, then they have the option to just weigh them >and give you an "average price", which is some kind of funky calculation.
    Or you can flatten the cans and take them to a metal recycling facility where you're paid by the pound, which is what I did before I gave up on canned beverages.

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  • From patrickdotnet@21:1/5 to All on Wed Aug 7 18:15:03 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    Aha! I had the same problem when replacing my old SodaStream with a 5lb tank.

    Here's the secret: SodaStream has a spinner which froths the CO2 into the water. Look up and inside.

    I haven't figured out how to replicate that yet. Might try a faucet aerator if I can figure out how to connect it.

    In the meantime, really cold water and a bunch of shaking (like 60s) while bubbles are still coming into the bottle works fine. I have to invert the bottle to tell when bubble are still coming in.

    --
    For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/what-is-the-secret-to-how-the-sodastream-works-to-carbonate-3261575-.htm

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