I have saved my old 8595 in my warm storage for over ten years. I took it out and tried to boot it. It started well but after few checkpoints power went off. I tried to start it again but it didn´t boot at all and power was off. I guess that eitherpower unit or power switch is broken. Is there any fuses to check and replace in power unit or mainboard?
sunnuntai 22. toukokuuta 2022 klo 20.23.30 UTC+3 Louis Ohland kirjADoitti:either power unit or power switch is broken. Is there any fuses to check and replace in power unit or mainboard?
https://ardent-tool.com/85_95/Op_Panel.html#Test_Switch ?
On 5/22/2022 12:14, Pertti Helander wrote:
I have saved my old 8595 in my warm storage for over ten years. I took it out and tried to boot it. It started well but after few checkpoints power went off. I tried to start it again but it didn´t boot at all and power was off. I guess that
I tested the power switch by removing bezel , pulling out card and closed circuit pins 1 and 4 but no power on. So is the power unit broken or where else I can start to look at? My PS/2 is Type 8595-AKD, cpu board is 61G2343 486DX2 33/66, 16 MB Ram,XGA2, original SoudBlaster MCA, 2,88 FDD, 2 scsi HD + 2 scsi cdrom drive and Windows 95 OS. I like to start using it and learn more about MCA systems. I have somewhere an original OS/2 Warp box and like to install it to my 8595 if I can make it working.
https://ardent-tool.com/85_95/Op_Panel.html#Test_Switch ?power unit or power switch is broken. Is there any fuses to check and replace in power unit or mainboard?
On 5/22/2022 12:14, Pertti Helander wrote:
I have saved my old 8595 in my warm storage for over ten years. I took it out and tried to boot it. It started well but after few checkpoints power went off. I tried to start it again but it didn´t boot at all and power was off. I guess that either
sunnuntai 22. toukokuuta 2022 klo 20.23.30 UTC+3 Louis Ohland kirjADoitti:power unit or power switch is broken. Is there any fuses to check and replace in power unit or mainboard?
https://ardent-tool.com/85_95/Op_Panel.html#Test_Switch ?
On 5/22/2022 12:14, Pertti Helander wrote:
I have saved my old 8595 in my warm storage for over ten years. I took it out and tried to boot it. It started well but after few checkpoints power went off. I tried to start it again but it didn´t boot at all and power was off. I guess that either
I tested the power switch by removing bezel , pulling out card and closed circuit pins 1 and 4 but no power on. So is the power unit broken or where else I can start to look at? My PS/2 is Type 8595-AKD, cpu board is 61G2343 486DX2 33/66, 16 MB Ram,XGA2, original SoudBlaster MCA, 2,88 FDD, 2 scsi HD + 2 scsi cdrom drive and Windows 95 OS. I like to start using it and learn more about MCA systems. I have somewhere an original OS/2 Warp box and like to install it to my 8595 if I can make it working.
https://www.ardent-tool.com/85_95/Power.html#Checking_Voltages
"On all other power supplies, short pin 1 to pin 2 and read the voltages
on the other pins. If the voltages are correct, and the power supply fan runs, the power supply is OK."
https://www.ardent-tool.com/85_95/Power.html#Planar_PSU_Pinout
1 Power ON/OFF OFF: +5 V, ON: Shorted to GND
Pertti Helander wrote:
sunnuntai 22. toukokuuta 2022 klo 20.23.30 UTC+3 Louis Ohland
kirjADoitti:
https://ardent-tool.com/85_95/Op_Panel.html#Test_Switch ?
On 5/22/2022 12:14, Pertti Helander wrote:
I have saved my old 8595 in my warm storage for over ten years. I
took it out and tried to boot it. It started well but after few
checkpoints power went off. I tried to start it again but it didn´t
boot at all and power was off. I guess that either power unit or
power switch is broken. Is there any fuses to check and replace in
power unit or mainboard?
I tested the power switch by removing bezel , pulling out card and
closed circuit pins 1 and 4 but no power on. So is the power unit
broken or where else I can start to look at? My PS/2 is Type 8595-AKD,
cpu board is 61G2343 486DX2 33/66, 16 MB Ram, XGA2, original
SoudBlaster MCA, 2,88 FDD, 2 scsi HD + 2 scsi cdrom drive and Windows
95 OS. I like to start using it and learn more about MCA systems. I
have somewhere an original OS/2 Warp box and like to install it to my
8595 if I can make it working. If not must I sell it as whole or by
parts and that´s a pity. I had ten years ago two 8580 towers, one
working and another for spare parts but I was moving to another
apartment so I gave them recycled and saved only this 8595 and some
MCA cards.
I suggested shorting 1,2 on the PSU's connector to totally eliminate
issues on the op-panel PCB.
Yep, too many variables - the PSU itself, planar, op panel cable, opI shortened line power cord on pins 1-2 with piece of wire but no power on. I checked with multimeter all pin values,
panel assy.
So let's test the parts one by one, starting with the PSU:
Unplug the line cord, disconnect all disk drive Molex connectors, and
swing the PSU out (or remove it completely for better access). Then
short pins 1 and 2 on the PSU planar connector with a piece of wire and
plug the line cord back in. The PSU should start. If it does, verify all
DC voltages and the Power Good signal. If it doesn't power on, the PSU
is faulty.
Based on the described behavior, it may be just bad caps. Be careful if
you are gonna recap the PSU - the caps may hold a charge for quite some time! There were quite a few different PSU models used in these
machines, and many of them are quite complex with multi-board construction... this isn't a cheapo klone PSU.
On 06.01.2023 22:56, Louis Ohland wrote:
I suggested shorting 1,2 on the PSU's connector to totally eliminate issues on the op-panel PCB.
I shortened line power cord on pins 1-2 with piece of wire but no power on. I checked with multimeter all pin values,Schrack model EPO71119-E, input 200-20V 4.0A output 329W.
pins 20-21 was 5V, but all others were 0-0,1V so I guess PSU is broken. When I after ten years in storage first time started my 8595 it powers on with some checkpoint displays but it after few second went power off and never startet again. PSU is
Is it difficult to check and repair or renew? Or must I look for spare part CPU?
I shortened line power cord on pins 1-2 with piece of wire but no power on. I checked with multimeter all pin values,Schrack model EPO71119-E, input 200-20V 4.0A output 329W.
pins 20-21 was 5V, but all others were 0-0,1V so I guess PSU is broken. When I after ten years in storage first time started my 8595 it powers on with some checkpoint displays but it after few second went power off and never startet again. PSU is
Is it difficult to check and repair or renew? Or must I look for spare part CPU?
On 08.01.2023 12:56, Pertti Helander wrote:
I shortened line power cord on pins 1-2 with piece of wire but no
power on. I checked with multimeter all pin values,
pins 20-21 was 5V, but all others were 0-0,1V so I guess PSU is
broken. When I after ten years in storage first time started my 8595
it powers on with some checkpoint displays but it after few second
went power off and never startet again. PSU is Schrack model
EPO71119-E, input 200-20V 4.0A output 329W.
Is it difficult to check and repair or renew? Or must I look for spare
part CPU?
Pertti, That doesn't make much sense.
By power cord you mean the connector that connects the PSU to the planar
I assume? If the PSU doesn't power on, there can't be any other voltages
than the pin 1 pull up voltage of ~5 V.
Are you sure you had the connector oriented correctly? It seems to me
that you were shorting out pins 20-21 (nothing when OFF, +5 V when ON)
and measuring pins 1-2 (PS-ON, which is floating at ~5 V when OFF, and
must be pulled down to turn the rest of the PSU ON).
Make sure you are working with the correct pins and try the procedure
again.
I don't think I ever encountered a Schrack PSU in a Model 95. No clue
about it's internal construction. Is it really a single range 200-220 V
unit?
https://www.ardent-tool.com/85_95/Power.html#Planar_PSU_PinoutI was at opposite end of PSU connector, didn´t notice the mark there. When I closed PSU connector pins 1-2 with wire PSU fan starts.
Notice the "Key" above Pin 3.
I've never shorted 1-2, so this is news to me....
Tomas Slavotinek wrote:
On 08.01.2023 12:56, Pertti Helander wrote:
I shortened line power cord on pins 1-2 with piece of wire but no
power on. I checked with multimeter all pin values,
pins 20-21 was 5V, but all others were 0-0,1V so I guess PSU is
broken. When I after ten years in storage first time started my 8595
it powers on with some checkpoint displays but it after few second
went power off and never startet again. PSU is Schrack model
EPO71119-E, input 200-20V 4.0A output 329W.
Is it difficult to check and repair or renew? Or must I look for spare
part CPU?
Pertti, That doesn't make much sense.
By power cord you mean the connector that connects the PSU to the planar
I assume? If the PSU doesn't power on, there can't be any other voltages than the pin 1 pull up voltage of ~5 V.
Are you sure you had the connector oriented correctly? It seems to me
that you were shorting out pins 20-21 (nothing when OFF, +5 V when ON)
and measuring pins 1-2 (PS-ON, which is floating at ~5 V when OFF, and must be pulled down to turn the rest of the PSU ON).
Make sure you are working with the correct pins and try the procedure again.
I don't think I ever encountered a Schrack PSU in a Model 95. No clue about it's internal construction. Is it really a single range 200-220 V unit?
I was at opposite end of PSU connector, didn´t notice the mark there. When I closed PSU connector pins 1-2 with wire PSU fan starts.
But when I checked with multimeter PSU connectors all pins there was 0 V with ground row pins and +- 5V or+-12V pins.
Between pins 1-2 there was 0 V not +5 V. Is this OK?
On 08.01.2023 19:57, Pertti Helander wrote:
I was at opposite end of PSU connector, didn´t notice the mark there.
When I closed PSU connector pins 1-2 with wire PSU fan starts.
But when I checked with multimeter PSU connectors all pins there was 0
V with ground row pins and +- 5V or+-12V pins.
Between pins 1-2 there was 0 V not +5 V. Is this OK?
The voltage between 1 and 2 should be close to 5 V when the PSU is in stand-by. Since you have to tie it low (to ground) to power the unit on,
0 V is correct when the PSU is running.
Here is how to measure the other voltages and what the expected ranges are: https://www.ardent-tool.com/85_95/Power.html#Primary_PSU_Voltages
Also, Power Good (pin 16) should be at logic high (close to 5 V) if everything is ok.
95 XP Op Panel - Hidden Remote IPL Switch (SW1)Contrary to what has been said about it not having any function in the
What's the switch SW1 for on the op panel PCB?
Tom says:
The SW1 switch is normally hidden behind the Op Panel Bezel.
This allows the system unit to be turned on and off from anexternal source - via the J4 pin header on the planar board. For this to
The J4 connection would be realized using an externally poweredelectronic switch - relay, semiconductor etc. The control signal could
Ed. Now we know its real name - Remote Initial Program Load (IPL)Switch (source).
Tomas Slavotinek wrote:there. When I closed PSU connector pins 1-2 with wire PSU fan starts.
On 08.01.2023 19:57, Pertti Helander wrote:
I was at opposite end of PSU connector, didn´t notice the mark
was 0 V with ground row pins and +- 5V or+-12V pins.But when I checked with multimeter PSU connectors all pins there
in stand-by. Since you have to tie it low (to ground) to power the unitBetween pins 1-2 there was 0 V not +5 V. Is this OK?
The voltage between 1 and 2 should be close to 5 V when the PSU is
ranges are:
Here is how to measure the other voltages and what the expected
https://www.ardent-tool.com/85_95/Power.html#Primary_PSU_Voltages
Also, Power Good (pin 16) should be at logic high (close to 5 V) if everything is ok.
95 XP Op Panel - Hidden Remote IPL Switch (SW1)
What's the switch SW1 for on the op panel PCB?
Tom says:
The SW1 switch is normally hidden behind the Op Panel Bezel.
Contrary to what has been said about it not having any function in the
Model 95, based on its wiring and some testing I have determined that it enables/disables the "Remote Power-ON" feature.
This allows the system unit to be turned on and off from an external source - via the J4 pin header on the planar board. For this to work the hidden SW1 switch must be pressed down, and then it's possible to power
the system on by grounding pin 2 of J4, and power it off again by
removing this connection. The system will power down only if the main
power switch (SW2) remained in the OFF position.
The J4 connection would be realized using an externally powered electronic switch - relay, semiconductor etc. The control signal could
be then supplied from a device connected to a telephone line or some
other source.
Ed. Now we know its real name - Remote Initial Program Load (IPL) Switch (source).
Tomas Slavotinek wrote:
On 08.01.2023 19:57, Pertti Helander wrote:
I was at opposite end of PSU connector, didn´t notice the mark there.
When I closed PSU connector pins 1-2 with wire PSU fan starts.
But when I checked with multimeter PSU connectors all pins there was
0 V with ground row pins and +- 5V or+-12V pins.
Between pins 1-2 there was 0 V not +5 V. Is this OK?
The voltage between 1 and 2 should be close to 5 V when the PSU is in
stand-by. Since you have to tie it low (to ground) to power the unit
on, 0 V is correct when the PSU is running.
Here is how to measure the other voltages and what the expected ranges
are:
https://www.ardent-tool.com/85_95/Power.html#Primary_PSU_Voltages
Also, Power Good (pin 16) should be at logic high (close to 5 V) if
everything is ok.
My intention is findting another weg to turn on a 95. The remote power -MIGHT- allow us to bypass SW2 -ASSUMING- there is a problem with the op panel, the ribbon connector, or the planar itself.
Louis Ohland wrote:
95 XP Op Panel - Hidden Remote IPL Switch (SW1)
What's the switch SW1 for on the op panel PCB?
Tom says:Contrary to what has been said about it not having any function in the
The SW1 switch is normally hidden behind the Op Panel Bezel.
Model 95, based on its wiring and some testing I have determined that it enables/disables the "Remote Power-ON" feature.
This allows the system unit to be turned on and off from anexternal source - via the J4 pin header on the planar board. For this to work the hidden SW1 switch must be pressed down, and then it's possible
to power the system on by grounding pin 2 of J4, and power it off again
by removing this connection. The system will power down only if the main power switch (SW2) remained in the OFF position.
The J4 connection would be realized using an externally poweredelectronic switch - relay, semiconductor etc. The control signal could
be then supplied from a device connected to a telephone line or some
other source.
Ed. Now we know its real name - Remote Initial Program Load (IPL)Switch (source).
Tomas Slavotinek wrote:there. When I closed PSU connector pins 1-2 with wire PSU fan starts.
On 08.01.2023 19:57, Pertti Helander wrote:
I was at opposite end of PSU connector, didn´t notice the mark
was 0 V with ground row pins and +- 5V or+-12V pins.But when I checked with multimeter PSU connectors all pins there
in stand-by. Since you have to tie it low (to ground) to power the unitBetween pins 1-2 there was 0 V not +5 V. Is this OK?
The voltage between 1 and 2 should be close to 5 V when the PSU is
on, 0 V is correct when the PSU is running.
ranges are:
Here is how to measure the other voltages and what the expected
https://www.ardent-tool.com/85_95/Power.html#Primary_PSU_Voltages
Also, Power Good (pin 16) should be at logic high (close to 5 V) if everything is ok.
Louis Ohland wrote:I checked again PSU with multimeter and PSU line cabel connected. Between PSU pin 1-2 it was 5 V.
95 XP Op Panel - Hidden Remote IPL Switch (SW1)
What's the switch SW1 for on the op panel PCB?
Tom says:
The SW1 switch is normally hidden behind the Op Panel Bezel.
Contrary to what has been said about it not having any function in the Model 95, based on its wiring and some testing I have determined that it enables/disables the "Remote Power-ON" feature.
This allows the system unit to be turned on and off from an external source - via the J4 pin header on the planar board. For this to work the hidden SW1 switch must be pressed down, and then it's possible to power the system on by grounding pin 2 of J4, and power it off again by
removing this connection. The system will power down only if the main power switch (SW2) remained in the OFF position.
The J4 connection would be realized using an externally powered electronic switch - relay, semiconductor etc. The control signal could
be then supplied from a device connected to a telephone line or some
other source.
Ed. Now we know its real name - Remote Initial Program Load (IPL) Switch (source).
Tomas Slavotinek wrote:
On 08.01.2023 19:57, Pertti Helander wrote:
I was at opposite end of PSU connector, didn´t notice the mark there. >>> When I closed PSU connector pins 1-2 with wire PSU fan starts.
But when I checked with multimeter PSU connectors all pins there was
0 V with ground row pins and +- 5V or+-12V pins.
Between pins 1-2 there was 0 V not +5 V. Is this OK?
The voltage between 1 and 2 should be close to 5 V when the PSU is in
stand-by. Since you have to tie it low (to ground) to power the unit
on, 0 V is correct when the PSU is running.
Here is how to measure the other voltages and what the expected ranges
are:
https://www.ardent-tool.com/85_95/Power.html#Primary_PSU_Voltages
Also, Power Good (pin 16) should be at logic high (close to 5 V) if
everything is ok.
I checked again PSU with multimeter and PSU line cabel connected. Between PSU pin 1-2 it was 5 V.
Line cabel connected between PSU pins 5-3,5-4,5-7 and 5-16 were 0,1-0,2V each so is PSU broken.
Is there any fuses inside PSU?
Is it possible and safe to open it and check?
And I find it difficult to switch back PSU socket to planar socket.
PSU socket is lose and moves horizontal and vertical and can´t see how it hits to planar socket.
And PSU can also be moved horizantally within hinges.
Is there any fuses inside PSU?
Is it possible and safe to open it and check? And I find it difficult to switch back PSU socket to planar socket.
PSU socket is lose and moves horizontal and vertical and can´t see how it hits to planar socket. And PSU can also be moved horizantally within hinges.
Fuses? Maybe. We await your discoveries. I gave away my last 8595 maybeI didn´t knew that pins 1-2 must be shorted before measuring other pin voltages. I short pins 1-2 and PSU fan starts. I start to measure voltages and between pins 5-3 it was 5 V but between 5-4 heard some klick and power went down. I guess fuse was
last year to Kevin.
Disconnect AC cord. Don't stick your tongue on capacitor leads.
The PSU 21 pin connector has to be floppy in order to allow for
misalignment of the PSU. The pins that the PSU pivots on allow front and back movement.
https://www.ardent-tool.com/85_95/95A_PSU_Exposed.html#Remove_AMP_Socket BUT... if the PSU 21 pin connector is not hooked into the "catch" it
will be damn hard to align.
https://www.ardent-tool.com/85_95/Power.html#PSU_Horizontal
Trying to Plug PSU Onto Planar Plug when case is Horizontal (from SuperVinx)
Someone gave me an 9585-ONG, formerly owned by a bank. The PSU was easy
to remove, but it was hard to reseat the power connectors between the
PSU and the planar while the system was horizontal. I've found that the
9585 must be in the vertical position, all the way to the right on the mounting pins, in order to seat with minimal effort.
Again, there are NO schematics on any IBM PSU for a PS/2. We await your discoveries. Really...
Pertti Helander wrote:
Is there any fuses inside PSU?
Is it possible and safe to open it and check? And I find it difficult to switch back PSU socket to planar socket.
PSU socket is lose and moves horizontal and vertical and can´t see how it hits to planar socket. And PSU can also be moved horizantally within hinges.
I didn´t knew that pins 1-2 must be shorted before measuring other pin voltages. I short pins 1-2 and PSU fan starts. I start to measure voltages and between pins 5-3 it was 5 V but between 5-4 heard some klick and power went down. I guess fuse wasburnt, I must open PSU and find where fuses locate and renew burnt fuse. Must check size, current A and find a shop that sells these in Finland,
On 09.01.2023 23:48, Pertti Helander wrote:
I didn´t knew that pins 1-2 must be shorted before measuring other pin
voltages. I short pins 1-2 and PSU fan starts. I start to measure
voltages and between pins 5-3 it was 5 V but between 5-4 heard some
klick and power went down. I guess fuse was burnt, I must open PSU and
find where fuses locate and renew burnt fuse. Must check size, current
A and find a shop that sells these in Finland,
The click you heard might have been a relay. Did the PSU make a similar
sound when you powered it on?
This may be the same problem you were having before when the machine
shut down randomly. Disconnect the PSU, give it a minute and try
restarting it using the same method as before. If it powers on, just
leave it running, not touching anything and see if it shuts down on its
own again.
Even a dead short on one of the voltage rails (touching DMM probes or whatever) should not cause the the internal fuse to blow. An
over-current protection (OCP) should kick in and shut down the unit.
If you open the PSU, look for dirt / dust / grease, you can use a Qtip
and alcohol, and / or compressed air to remove the grunge. Though odd,
the internal heatsinks and / or components may be coated. The "clicking" might be thermal self-protect. Maybe.
On 10.01.2023 3:54, Louis Ohland wrote:Thomas was right, it´s a relay that turned PSU off, not a fuse. I put power cord on, closed pins 1-2 and PSU cooler starts. I measured
If you open the PSU, look for dirt / dust / grease, you can use a QtipI really doubt thermal protection would act this quickly, especially
and alcohol, and / or compressed air to remove the grunge. Though odd,
the internal heatsinks and / or components may be coated. The "clicking" might be thermal self-protect. Maybe.
without a load. But I agree that dust and grime can cause thermal and
other issues if you give it enough time.
If you are gonna de-dust the thing, watch for any broken-off pieces.
But based on the observed behavior, I'd be looking for bad electrolytic
caps first and foremost (bulged package, leaked electrolyte,
shrunken/broken sleeve indicating heat exposure). Even if the caps look
ok, they may still be bad. You would have to measure the capacity and
ESR to know for sure. Or shotgun it and replace them all. But let's not
get ahead of ourselves...
On 10.01.2023 3:54, Louis Ohland wrote:
If you open the PSU, look for dirt / dust / grease, you can use a QtipI really doubt thermal protection would act this quickly, especially
and alcohol, and / or compressed air to remove the grunge. Though odd,
the internal heatsinks and / or components may be coated. The "clicking" might be thermal self-protect. Maybe.
without a load. But I agree that dust and grime can cause thermal and
other issues if you give it enough time.
If you are gonna de-dust the thing, watch for any broken-off pieces.
But based on the observed behavior, I'd be looking for bad electrolytic
caps first and foremost (bulged package, leaked electrolyte,
shrunken/broken sleeve indicating heat exposure). Even if the caps look
ok, they may still be bad. You would have to measure the capacity and
ESR to know for sure. Or shotgun it and replace them all. But let's not
get ahead of ourselves...
The click you heard might have been a relay. Did the PSU make a similarThomas was right, it´s a relay that turned PSU off, not a fuse. I put power cord on, closed pins 1-2 and PSU cooler starts. I measured
sound when you powered it on?
This may be the same problem you were having before when the machine
shut down randomly. Disconnect the PSU, give it a minute and try
restarting it using the same method as before. If it powers on, just
leave it running, not touching anything and see if it shuts down on its
own again.
Even a dead short on one of the voltage rails (touching DMM probes or whatever) should not cause the the internal fuse to blow. An
over-current protection (OCP) should kick in and shut down the unit.
Thomas was right, it´s a relay that turned PSU off, not a fuse. I put power cord on, closed pins 1-2 and PSU cooler starts. I measuredoff. Any guesses what caused a relay to go off?
pins 5-3, was +5 V, pins 5-7 was -12 V, pins 5-1 was +5 V and when I measured pins 5-4 I got +12 V but power went off. Like Thomas I guess that at the first time after 10 years when I booted my 8595 it starts displaying few checkpoints and went power
tiistai 10. tammikuuta 2023 klo 14.13.12 UTC+2 [email protected] kirjoitti:off. Any guesses what caused a relay to go off?
The click you heard might have been a relay. Did the PSU make a similarThomas was right, it´s a relay that turned PSU off, not a fuse. I put power cord on, closed pins 1-2 and PSU cooler starts. I measured
sound when you powered it on?
This may be the same problem you were having before when the machine
shut down randomly. Disconnect the PSU, give it a minute and try
restarting it using the same method as before. If it powers on, just
leave it running, not touching anything and see if it shuts down on its
own again.
Even a dead short on one of the voltage rails (touching DMM probes or
whatever) should not cause the the internal fuse to blow. An
over-current protection (OCP) should kick in and shut down the unit.
pins 5-3, was +5 V, pins 5-7 was -12 V, pins 5-16 was +5 V and when I measured pins 5-4 I got +12 V but power went off. Like Thomas I guess that at the first time after 10 years when I booted my 8595 it starts displaying few checkpoints and went power
On 10.01.2023 13:46, Pertti Helander wrote:off. Any guesses what caused a relay to go off?
Thomas was right, it´s a relay that turned PSU off, not a fuse. I put power cord on, closed pins 1-2 and PSU cooler starts. I measured
pins 5-3, was +5 V, pins 5-7 was -12 V, pins 5-1 was +5 V and when I measured pins 5-4 I got +12 V but power went off. Like Thomas I guess that at the first time after 10 years when I booted my 8595 it starts displaying few checkpoints and went power
So the voltages are ok when the PSU runs, but it shuts down randomly onWhere can I find this "jump start" wire? I looked this youty.be video and
its own...
First, make sure your "jump start" wire has a good connection to
eliminate that variable. If it still shuts down, even when you are not touching/probing the unit, it must be something internal to the PSU.
It may be just a bad connection (cold solder joint) - try tapping on the unit and see if it has any effect. Or, as Louis pointed out if the unit
is really dusty/dirty, that might cause problems too.
But it's more likely that some component is failing. If you feel
confident about poking inside the PSU, leave it unplugged for a while,
then open it and do a visual inspection (you can send us photos, so we
can see what you are dealing with and maybe we will spot something you
have missed).
The prime suspect is the electrolytic capacitors - see my previous post. "BBISHOPPCM" had a similar problem with his Model 95, and a complete
recap did the trick: https://youtu.be/YNFUtuqxN8Q
But I can't guarantee that doing this will work in your case. The
problem can be somewhere else - even the pesky relay itself could be faulty.
I hate to say this, but switch-mode power supplies can be really tricky
to diagnose and fix - even for an engineer. Especially the more complex designs - like the ones used in the Model 85 and 95. Unfortunately, I
have never come across a Schrack unit, so I can't give you any details
about its internal construction or what the common faults might be.
If you don't wanna risk making things even worse or hurting yourself,
just bring it to somebody for a repair (if you have that option) or buy
a new one.
Eh, they show up on ebay from time to time, but the price is usually
through the roof. See here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125557732059
Where can I find this "jump start" wire?
I looked this youty.be video and it seems to be difficult to repair
PSU, I have no knowledge to do it and don´t know any person either.
Is somewhere used working 8595 PSUs for sale?
The same power supply, different fault: https://forum.electronicwerkstatt.de/phpBB/Ersatzteile_Reparatur_Drucker_Kopierer/drucker_sonstige_schrack_schaltnetzteil_unbekanntes_bauteil_blitzt-t126628f48_bs0.htmlThats the quite same model PSU I have, mine is EP071119-E 329W, P/N 33F5512, FRU P/N 15F6636.
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